The South Bend heavy 9 Rebuild

Rick_B

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Hi folks - I'm a new guy so a brief introduction first. My full name is Rick Bruner and I reside in upstate NY (Syracuse area). I have been a woodworker for quite awhile (note that longevity doesn't necessarily equate to skill and over the last few years have been drawn in to the restoration/rebuilding of old WW equipment. 45 years ago i took a shop class that was required in my associate degree program - that involved running a lathe. That was the last time I did nay metal working to speak of - but I have always felt an attraction to the field. In anticipation of my recent retirement I bought and sold a number of small metal lathes (a no name, several atlas lathes, etc) - the more reading I did the more I realized I wanted a South Bend. One came up for sale last spring for a reasonable price and I jumped on it. I sold all of the other lathes I had been accumulating to focus on the SB. I recently started the rebuild process and thought I would document it here as well as several other forums - my strategy is to get as much exposure as possible because I know I will have a ton of questions.

The lathe is a 1939 9" X 36" south bend referred to as a "Heavy 9". The heavy 9 is almost a ten inch 1-3/8. It is capable of accepting 5C collets. This spindle is bigger than some 13" lathes. The previous owner indicated that the only difference between this lathe and the heavy 10 was 1/2" of swing. It is billed as a bench top on the serial card with an undermount drive - again a very unusual drive for a 9" lathe according to south bend. The bench it was previously on was basically a set of cast iron legs with a wooden plank top and a sacrificial hardboard cover. The more I looked at pictures and learned a little bit the more I didn't like the bench idea so I started looking around and was able to find a cast iron pedestal base with the underdrive mount, the cast iron TS leg and a chip pan. The seller is fairly well known and we were able to make a deal at a reasonable price. The problem was that it was 4 hours away. I was able to make a deal with another guy where he picked up my lathe stuff and I picked up a mortiser for him and we split the travel distance for an exchange.

The current state of the rebuild is that the drive and base parts have all been disassembled, cast iron parts were all shot blasted, machined parts/fasteners were all wire brushed and everything has been painted (some still drying). I tried to replicate the SB color based on one of the gear guards. I went to sherman williams and we matched it by eye. It seems close to me and I'm not really hung up on exact replication. My plan is to use the greenish/gray SB color with some black accents. I am brushing everything as I don't have spray equipment and its getting too cold in NY to use rattle can outdoors. I'll post some pictures after I start the re-assembly. There some links below to other forum threads (hope that is OK?) that document some of my initial efforts. I've changed horses a couple of times - started with the tail stock and put that on the back burner, completed the original drive and then decided to use the one that came with the pedestal base - so it may get a little confusing.

When I got the pedestal base and new drive - it had what was reported to be an original motor - it is a 1/2 HP, single phase, dual voltage, 1725 capacitor start motor with external reversing. It took me awhile to figure out that the motor leads had been previously connected inside the motor for 110. Once I discovered that I was able to re-assemble the motor and get it running. The motor has been disassembled, cleaned and painted and is also in the "paint drying stage".

The next phase is to let the paint dry a few weeks and then reassemble all of the base and drive parts. I'm expecting a buffer in a few weeks which I need for a few of these parts. In the meantime I may start some of the main lathe disassembly. There probably won't be a lot of progress until after the holidays.

here's a link to a thread about the motor
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=107029

And here's a couple of more links - the first is to an OWWM thread. In the future I plan on posting to each of these forums so I won't be linking as much. Note that the posts on these other forums are nearly identical so either one should catch you up.

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=103355


And finally here's a picture of the lathe as I received it. Thanks for looking and thanlks in advance for all of the help I am going to need.




Assembled.jpg

Assembled.jpg

Assembled.jpg
 
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Thought I'd post a couple of completed motor pictures

CompletedMotor2.jpg

CompletedMotor1.jpg

CompletedMotor2.jpg

CompletedMotor1.jpg

CompletedMotor2.jpg

CompletedMotor1.jpg
 
well i started to reassemble the drive parts and ran into a question. this drive has bearing surfaces machined into the cradle. there are keyways in the bearing surfaces for felts and brass rings that hang from the countershaft into a resorvoir of oil - i believe they are called "oil slingers" and they bring oil up from the resorvoir to the countershaft and felts.

i got all of the parts assembled but noticed when i turn the countershaft by hand that there appears to be a lot of drag in it. the parts are all clean and dry. i'm wondering if this drag would be expected with no oil applied yet?

thanks
Rick
 
Thanks Rick for the info - you can see my inexperience showing ;)

i tried oiling it with a little 3 in 1 and that resulted in a significant improvement. i'm not up to'speed with the lubrication requirements yet but i think once i get the correct oil and the right quantity i will be ok. Regarding damage by assembling dry . given that this is 72 years old and already had some wear - i think i shoild be ok?

Rick
 
Thanks Jim - that's good information. I'm definitly still in a "learning mode" so I need all the help I can get ;)
 
A brief progress report and some questions
I have gotten all of the base and drive parts completed and ready for re-assembly. I'm waiting until after the holidays for that. I've also got all of the major sub assemblies removed from the lathe bed and piled up on the bench

LatheDisassembled.jpg

Hopefully I'll get them all back together at some point :)

I cleaned up all of the reversing gear sub assembly pieces. I'm using Steve Brooks' manual and it describes in detail the installation of lubrication felt wicks. It appears there are two basic paths for lubrication - the reversing gear shaft and the twin gears. Both appear to be fed from a single oil tube.

My problem is that I think my reversing gear sub assembly is different. The reversing gear shaft lubrication path appears to match. However, the twin gears are completely different. The manual talks about drilling out a thin metal plug (I don't have that), knocking out a 1/8" dowel (I don't have that), installing wicks in that passage way which connect up with wicks just above the twin gear shaft hole and finally installing wicks in a keyway in the twin gear shaft. These paths all connect up and provide lubrication to the twin gears.

On my lathe - the twin gear shaft has a crosshole drilled through it which had a wick and a longitudnal hole from the top that connected up with the cross hole - no wicks in that hole as received.
TwinGear2.jpg
Twingear1.jpg

I can see how this arrangement would work - my questions are - should the longitudinal hole have a wick and is this a separate oiling point - i would oil both twin gears through the logitudinal hole and then oil the reversing gear shaft through the oil tube.

Thanks

Rick

LatheDisassembled.jpg

TwinGear2.jpg

Twingear1.jpg

LatheDisassembled.jpg

TwinGear2.jpg

Twingear1.jpg
 
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I got the saddle, crossfeed and compound disassembled and , as expected, there are a few problems. I'll post some pictures later but it appears that this poor lathe may have suffered a crash with a chuck. There are gouge marks on the end of the compound and crossfeed - I don't think they are serious - just aesthetic.

there is one serious problem - the crossfeed screw is bent and has damaged threads where the dial nut goes on. Also - at some point the crossfeed bushing was broken in half. So - I am in the market for a few parts - I'm checking the usual sources but may be back to BOYD. The picture below doesn't show the break so well but the hex section of the bushing is broken from the threaded section.

CrossfeedScrew.jpg

CrossfeedScrew.jpg

CrossfeedScrew.jpg
 
Thanks guys - I have a possible line on replacement parts. I won't be able to check them out until after next week though. The source for the parts believes a heavy 10 crossfeed is compatible.

Jim - thanks for the remake plans - unfortunately that is way beyond'my current skill level but I may use them if i need to hire so,eone to do this - now let's see who do I know with crossfeed experience - ;)
 
thanks Rick - all very good points . The source I have is very well respected and offers a no questions asked return policy so i feel pretty good about him. I do appreciate your thoughts because I have purchased a few ebay items that didn't work as i hoped ;)
 
While I'm waiting for a potential cross feed screw replacement I started disassembling the apron. It was going well until I got to the clutch assembly. in the picture below you can see a hex nut on a shaft on the left side and a worm gear on the right. This is a splined shaft that houses the clutch plates and goes through the worm gear. I got all of that off and removed the internal snap ring but I'm not sure of how the splined shaft and worm gear come out. I have one manual that says to press the shaft out and a parts diagram that looks like the hex nut may be threaded on the shaft. I'm thinking right now that I need to get that hex nut off and push the splined shaft/worm gear out to the right. Anyone have experience with this disassembly? if I am correct - is the hex nut left or right hand and how do I get it off - there's nothing to speak of that I can get a hold of to keep the shaft from turning ? Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!
Rick

ClutchShaft.jpg

ClutchShaft.jpg

ClutchShaft.jpg
 
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