The New 1340GT from PM

[Havoc]

Congrats Danny. Can't wait to see it set up and running.

Thanks for rubbing it in though.:impatient:

Actually, I just called Road Runner Freight when I got back from lunch about a half hour ago. They informed me that it is supposed to be arriving at the Salt Lake City hub sometime today and that someone will be calling me either this afternoon or in the morning to set up a delivery time/date. I wish I could get it in the morning but I have corporate people coming in to work tomorrow so I hope to schedule it for Wednesday in the AM.

Mike.

Oh, hey, nice looking FJ in the driveway too.

Ha Ha,

Yeah I hope you get yours on Wednesday, That's the Beast in my drive way 2007 TRD SE, I love it ....

Danny

 

[zmotorsports]

Hey Danny, by the looks of the first picture, you have a similar "lip" in your gutter to approach as I do. Mine measures about 1" or so high, possibly a bit more but not much more. Is the driver able to maneuver the manual pallet jack up and over that lip alright without any complications?

Mike.

 

[Senna]

Guys...

As far as chucks... Here's a few thoughts/opinions from yours truly:

6", 3J scroll and 8", 4J independent chucks cost about the same amount and can range from about $175 to $700. That's a huge price range! Is there a difference between one costing $175 and another costing $700? I should hope so but, do not know the answer because all my chucks are in the $175 to $250 range. I'm quite happy with them. With a little fine tuning, they all balance well and the jaws are nice and even. If I had to guess, an expensive chuck will not need to be balanced and the jaws probably do not need to be tweaked for straightness (but I wouldn't hold my breath). If you mount an expensive chuck to a backplate, you'll still need to do fitting on the interfaces.

I guess there are set-tru chucks... -Don't see the need for that because when I tune my chucks, they're as good as any chuck will ever be. When they were new, they were a little stiff -but a couple months later, they weren't stiff anymore. I supposed I could have deburred the components -but at the risk of doing more harm than good... My expectations of a chuck are not high. If it repeats within a few thou, it's good. If I need better repeatability than that I'll use collets or spin between centers.

My collet chuck is steel and my jawed chucks are semi-steel. Given the nature of how jaws operate, I don't think making a jawed chuck out of steel will make it work any better or last any longer...

I just don't understand what's so great about an expensive chuck. The chucks that came with my lathe are perfectly fine once they were fitted properly.


Ray

Ray, as usual, the information you provide is valuable and appreciated.
Thank you.
I think what you get when purchasing a more expensive chuck (or vise, RT, etc.) is the reasonable expectation of greater refinement. Fit, finish, attention to detail, and noticeable signs of pride in manufacture are to be expected. Most of the time those expectations are met with the higher priced units. Refinement like that has value to some. For others the end result is all that matters. Most would like both.
Refinement costs money though. For many hobby type machinists the end result is what really matters. If they feel the need for a little refinement they'll do it themselves and save the money not spent on the expensive factory refined item for their next cool acquisition.

The used market, although fraught with potential perils, can occasionally yield both refinement and an affordable price. Win-win with due diligence on the buyer's part.

 

[Havoc]

Hey Danny, by the looks of the first picture, you have a similar "lip" in your gutter to approach as I do. Mine measures about 1" or so high, possibly a bit more but not much more. Is the driver able to maneuver the manual pallet jack up and over that lip alright without any complications?

Mike.

Mike,

I laid down 2 pieces of 1/4 " OSB and he was able to pull the pallet on to the drive way with me pushing on the back end. Gave him a Jackson for a tip and he was very happy.

Danny

 

[zmotorsports]

Awesome. Thanks. I was debating on moving my coach out of the driveway so he could back up to the shop but if it isn't too bad to get over the lip I would just have him drop it in the street and push/pull it back to the shop. It is only about 100' from the street so not too awfully far.

Mike.

 

[ezduzit]

... I was debating on moving my coach out of the driveway so he could back up to the shop but if it isn't too bad to get over the lip I would just have him drop it in the street and push/pull it back to the shop. It is only about 100' from the street so not too awfully far...

Mike, you must be very young and fit. At 70, I'd move whatever's in his way, and try to make it SO easy for the delivery guy to place it right where I wanted it, or at least close.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, you must be very young and fit. At 70, I'd move whatever's in his way, and try to make it SO easy for the delivery guy to place it right where I wanted it, or at least close.

I am 45 years old and in shape, round is a shape right? Anyway my driveway is slightly sloped from the front of the house to the street. From the front of the house all the way to the shop it is level concrete. My thinking is either push it up the slight grade in the driveway or if he backs up to the house he will have to push it slightly uphill to the back of the truck and get it on the lift gate. Probably be easier to do it in the street where the truck will be level and then the slight grade coming up the driveway.

I'll just let the driver make the call. If if will make it easier to move the coach from the driveway that takes about two minutes.

Mike.

 

[TFC]

Hi, All,
My 1340GT was delivered yesterday, 4PM. Has anyone ever used hockey pucks as pads under leveling screws? I'm thinking about doing so with the 1340GT. The included leveling screws did not come with any type of pad. I was under the impression that center drilled metal pads (discs) would be included for use under the leveling screws. Since hockey pucks are more readily available around here than is 2.5" round stock, I'm thinking about center drilling the pucks part way through, creating a pocket to receive the screws. Also, the included leveling screws are 1/2"-12 TPI rather than the usual/modern 13 TPI. No aftermarket mounts available in 1/2"-12TPI only 13 TPI. I thought it would come with metric threads. Would rather use JPatMcConnel's method stated earlier in this thread (a modified RayC/QMT method) but can't find nylon spacers that are 3/4" od x 1/2" id which he used to center the 1/2" mount studs in the .3/4-" holes. So, got to get this thing moved in and set today as my small shop is totally useless for now.
Thanks.
Tim

 

[zmotorsports]

Hi, All,
My 1340GT was delivered yesterday, 4PM. Has anyone ever used hockey pucks as pads under leveling screws? I'm thinking about doing so with the 1340GT. The included leveling screws did not come with any type of pad. I was under the impression that center drilled metal pads (discs) would be included for use under the leveling screws. Since hockey pucks are more readily available around here than is 2.5" round stock, I'm thinking about center drilling the pucks part way through, creating a pocket to receive the screws. Also, the included leveling screws are 1/2"-12 TPI rather than the usual/modern 13 TPI. No aftermarket mounts available in 1/2"-12TPI only 13 TPI. I thought it would come with metric threads. Would rather use JPatMcConnel's method stated earlier in this thread (a modified RayC/QMT method) but can't find nylon spacers that are 3/4" od x 1/2" id which he used to center the 1/2" mount studs in the .3/4-" holes. So, got to get this thing moved in and set today as my small shop is totally useless for now.
Thanks.
Tim

Sorry Tim, wish I had an answer for ya. I purchased some leveling feet from my local Grainger branch.

These are what I plan on using for leveling both my lathe and milling machine. Specs show 6k pounds capacity each. Should also give me about 2" of height gain.

Mike.

 

[TFC]

Mike,
Thanks.
Tim