The New 1340GT from PM

[HMF]

This thread will attempt to provide useful general information regarding this machine.

In the interest of fairness, we are not going to allow commercial business owners to join this forum just to post criticisms or down a manufacturer's machine because it does not meet their commercial needs producing products for sale to the public. Nor will we permit them to obtain customer service in an open forum where the manufacturer is made to look bad in front of an audience. This simply isn't fair, and it does not comply with the mission of this forum.

While we wholeheartedly support constructive and useful criticism of machining products and do not censor such criticism, and support and assistance for products used by hobby-machinists (home shop machinists), we will not condone the use of this forum by commercial entities who have no history here who join here simply to air grievances.

This forum is devoted to home-shop and hobby-machinists (hence the name). That is our stated mission. Commercial entities should be prepared to seek support for their manufacturing equipment directly from the manufacturer.
Aside from all of the foregoing, I have some real reservations and doubts about a "commercial user" who does not know the proper way to lift up a lathe.

 

[Ray C]

Let's see if I can answer some questions:

1) The apparatus is a shop crane, gantry or fork lift that you must supply. How to lift a lathe is a very common question that's covered in many threads here. If you need to lift your lathe again, here's a thread that shows very good technique. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=22799&highlight=Lifting+lathe

2) Yes, the pulleys for changing coarse speed are probably tight. You can loosen them a little if you want. Generally speaking, it just so happens I don't change mine all that often but, I've got the tension set where it's not that hard to do. I also only use 1 belt as a safety. If you ever have a crash, hopefully the belt will slip and not cause too much damage. A single belt can easily transmit the full 2 HP.

3) I'm not familiar with the taper attachment on that unit but will get some information. All attachments that I know of can be left on at all times.

4) Yes, it's a Taiwanese lathe but the chucks are not. Without the upgrade package, no chucks (and various other items) would have been supplied. Many people do not get the upgraded package because they are experienced users and already have their own chucks and peripheral equipment.

5) The chucks are 8" 4-jaw independent and 6" 3-jaw scroll. At one time, some of our 3 jaw chucks were supplied with "reversible" faces -but EVERYONE complained about them. It is much easier, faster and more likely to re-zero properly when you use the dual set jaws. I have a 3J with "flip-face" jaws -and it sits in the corner of the shop virtually unused. One of these days, I gotta get rid of it.

6) The unit is supposed come with a 1/2 drill chuck -and I know of no other type of drill chuck used in a lathe. It's just an MT arbor with a standard JT interface holding a standard chuck. Please double check the size and verify that it's 3/8". That will be addressed if the wrong one was sent.

7) As far as the taper holding the MT shaft, the ram of the tailstock has to be extended a little bit before it fully engages. To release the MT shaft, just backout the TS ram.

8) Whatever you do, don't use a pipe-wrench to change your dial settings... All lathes of this type have flat-tooth gears. -Matter of fact, every lathe I've used (except one model of LeBlond) had flat tooth gears and therefore, when changing dial settings you need to manually rotate the chuck to move the gears enough so they will engage. The lathe will always be this way and it won't "break-in" and get easier because, it's not intended to work that way.


There are many 1340 owners here and lots of information about how to setup and operate a lathe. The learning curve can be a bit daunting but in a very short while, it will fit like a glove...


Ray

 

[JPatMcConnel]

I just received my PM1340GT lathe last week as well (after waiting almost seven months). Moving it was a daunting task because my shop is at the back of my yard (175 feet) and no driveway. A Troy Dingo with tracks and tree forks was the lifting tool to accomplish that. Once at the shop, two friends and I lifted the lathe up on the stands using straps wrapped around the headstock base inside the lead screw, feed, and control rods, likewise on the tailstock. The lifting tool was a two ton shop crane from Harbor freight. Because of the tight space and the maneuvering required, it took us three hours, but no one was hurt.

With help from Matt at Quality Machine Tools, yes, he does respond to emails and the phone, I hooked up the power cord to the R and S pins, using the common ground (yellow wire with green stripe screwed to the electrical cabinet floor), and the 1 and 2 pins for the halogen light. The belt is very tight between the A and B pulleys. Mine was complicated by different length hex cap screws used to anchor the head stock blocking the movement of the motor. Two of the hex cap bolts stuck out an extra 1/4 inch so I couldn't elevate the motor high enough to release the tension on the belt. A trip to my ACE hardware store and I had shorter metric hex cap bolts which allowed me the clearance I needed to release the tension. I was also careful to move the electrical cables out of the way so they wouldn't be pinched. The new belt was still so tight I had to put a 22mm socket on the pulley bolt to turn it enough get the belt to pop over. I did not try to position the motor in the same place it was located when the belt was on the A pulley because it was simply too tight. Matt told me that with time the belt will stretch, my experience as well.

While the lathe is from Taiwan, I was never under the impression that the accessories would also be from Taiwan. I have another set of jaws in the red tool box that came with the lathe for the three jaw (I think; I also ordered the four jaw chuck). My knob for thread to feed is also tight, but I use the jog button to move the gear train rather than force the knob

I'll be the first to admit the quality of the manual caught me by surprise, but Matt has been very helpful to me. While I can't answer all of the questions you posed I hope this helps. I am very impressed with the quality of this machine as I have had another, which although very nice, is not the same caliber.

I hope you get through this teething period and can enjoy this first class lathe. I would be willing to work with other interested souls in putting together a better manual as a best practice for this group.

Pat McConnel

 

[JPatMcConnel]

I thought I would post a few pictures around the receipt and installation of my PM1340GT so here goes. BTW, I live in Northern Virginia, land of tropical temperatures and many thunderstorms, especially when your new lathe is delivered! The tracks in the grass are from the Troy Dingo tractor with treads and tree forks; it pays to know someone who does heavy landscaping when you don't have a drive way. I built the shop, too, but I was a wee bit younger. I thought the lathe was well packed (as you can see) and the accessory installations by Matt and Company were excellent. The lathe box looks relatively empty (except for that big lathe), but when it arrived it was packed very full with accessories I ordered. My total labor investment for the lathe move was one Dingo and operator ($160 - 1 hr), and two friends (4 hours plus beer, AFTERWARDS). My labor investment was about 2 1/2 days for setup of the space, including rehearsing the movement of the lathe; setting up and leveling the stand, movement and installation of the lathe; and then cleanup and restoration of the shop space.

Pat McConnel

 

[Ray C]

Oh brother... that was a moving job and a half...

Nice shop!

Would you mind doing me a favor on your 1340 and check to see if it came with an AXA or BXA setup? It should have come with a BXA and a 1/2 drill chuck and if it didn't we'll take care of that.


Ray

 

[JPatMcConnel]

Ray,
My PM1340GT came with a 250-222 QCTP (and tool holders) which puts it in the BXA series; the chuck has a 13mm capacity, and a quick check with a 1/2 drill bit indicates it works quite well. An arbor was also included with the chuck.

Pat

 

[Ray C]

Later this afternoon (after 2-3pm EST) I'll be able to respond with more info... Sit tight... For now though, I don't think there's anything wrong with the unit so we'll just go over the major pieces and walk through it.


Ray

 

[Don B]

Wow,

I am waiting for mine to be configured right now..... Matt said it would be ready to ship by next week. Should I pull the order?

Danny

No I think that would be very unfair, I know nothing about these machines with the exception of what I read on this site and people seem to have nothing but praise good thinks to say of them and the gentalman that sells them, I'm sure these few little problems will be resolved quickly and to the original posters satisfaction base on what I've seen on here in the past.

 

[samthedog]

This may just be the honeymoon break-in freak-out when trying to figure out a new machine. I tend to panic and work myself into a frenzy over all the little traits of a machine that are new to me. Relax, have a beer and just go through the machine at a slower pace.

Paul.

 

[qualitymachinetools]

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS


1. Lifting the machine was an incredible hassle; The lifting assembly mentioned in the manual was no where to be found, so we had to fabricate one. Already Addressed, just use lifting slings around the bed to lift it, no need to fabricate anything to lift the machine.

2. The pulley set to change from high to low range is incredibly tight. Originally the wires were mashed behind the motor making it impossible to change over, we managed to get the wires out, and get it into low gear, but now it's even tighter and I can't imagine ever getting it out of low gear without removing both pulleys from their shafts. The motor only hinges up a little bit because its cooling fin hits the cap adjustment screw that sticks out. If that belt doesnt seat in a bit or stretch, let me know, we will take care of that.

3. We got the taper attachment. We can't figure out how to free the crossslide so that it actually works. The manual says to loosen the large allen head screw in the middle as far as we can tell, but no matter how loose we make that, it doesn't free the slide. The taper attachment also severely limits crossslide travel because it hits the back guard. We don't want to have to constantly take the whole thing on and off. Completely remove the allen screw you are talking about, then it will work. And replace it when you are done using the taper attachment, and remove the bracket on top. The taper attachment attaches directly to the cross slide with the bracket, and that allen screw needs to be completely removed when using it. As far as limiting the travel, the taper does not move with the cross slide and should have nothing at all to do with the cross slide travel or the back guard. If you mean the carriage travel, just slide the taper to one side when getting up close to the headstock.

4. We were under the impression that we were buying Taiwanese with this lathe... yet the chuck and toolpost have China stamped right on them. We did get the "upgrade" package with it with all the extras. It IS 100% for sure, made in TAIWAN. The quick change tool post that you mentioned is from China, yes, but the machine is made in Taiwan. 100% without a doubt.[/COLOR]

5. Speaking of the chuck, the pictured chuck in the advertisements had removable jaws that bolt on the front, allowing you to reverse them without taking the jaws out. The chuck we got doesn't have this. Is this right? Already Addressed[/COLOR]

6. The quick release "upgrade" toolpost only seems to take bits up to 1/2 inch in size, unless we are missing something. Takes up to 5/8" Bits. It is the right size for that machine, the BXA Size. I have larger holders if you need them too, but that is standard with the BXA Size. Correct for that lathe.

7. The tailstock taper isn't holding the tailstock chuck. Pulls right out. The tailstock chuck looks more like a drill press chuck than a lathe chuck. It's also only a 3/8ths inch chuck! I don't know if they sent us the wrong tailstock chuck or what. You said that this is good now that you cleaned it out, so thats already addressed

8. The knob to change from feed to thread is incredibly tight. Not just kind of tight, but "need to use a pipe wrench to turn it" tight I think this is addressed and loosening up

Anything else, give me a call, we are here. 412-787-2876 Or email matt@machinetoolonline.com, I do not check these private messages often

-Matt