Splat's new Heavy 10

Splat said:
Ron, did you ever consider or tried a serpentine belt?
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No, I never really saw a need to. I liked using my old (1.5") leather belt and was not bothered by a slight "clink" sound when running. (Which can be fixed with a small piece of tape or something) I've read quite a bit about the serpentines and have seen a lot of problems keeping them stitched together once cut to put on the lathe. I didn't want to mess with adhesives or "experimenting" to see what would hold so basically looked to the original design.

I went with the Al Bino belt due to my old leather one was slipping a little too much especially when I'm planning to put a higher HP motor on it. The "laced" belt is just so convenient and "poly-nitrile" feeds my need for "higher performance".

I've nothing against the serpentines but this just seemed the simplest (Occam's Razor) solution.

-Ron
 
Ron, I saved Al Bino's link you put up in case I need a new belt. Thanks for posting about that.


Well guys, s-l-ooooo-w-l-y getting the headstock together. I was ready to put the spindle back into place but ran into a problem with the felt capillary oilers. I tried fitting a thin piece of wire into the top-most holes, as per the rebuild manual, but it won't go all the way thru. There doesn't appear to be a hole in the brass tubes. I can't figure how to hold the oilers down to get the spindle in place otherwise.... Anyone else had this problem?
 
Splat said:
Ron, I saved Al Bino's link you put up in case I need a new belt. Thanks for posting about that.


Well guys, s-l-ooooo-w-l-y getting the headstock together. I was ready to put the spindle back into place but ran into a problem with the felt capillary oilers. I tried fitting a thin piece of wire into the top-most holes, as per the rebuild manual, but it won't go all the way thru. There doesn't appear to be a hole in the brass tubes. I can't figure how to hold the oilers down to get the spindle in place otherwise.... Anyone else had this problem?
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Look down the inside of the tube and see if the holes are there and maybe just misaligned. If the are there but don't match up I would just drill new holes and smooth the bore with a file rather than try and pull the tubes and risk damaging them.
 
woodtickgreg said:
Look down the inside of the tube and see if the holes are there and maybe just misaligned. If the are there but don't match up I would just drill new holes and smooth the bore with a file rather than try and pull the tubes and risk damaging them.
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I tried rotating the tubes but they wouldn't budge. Maybe just from years of sitting there. I believe I did look down the tubes to see if there were holes there but maybe I'm mistaken. Hoping to get'er done today. Drilling sounds like a viable idea if I can get them....but maybe I can drill them in place. Here we go.... :)
 
Managed to get a piece of wire into the middle hole and into the felt to hold down while installing the spindle.

Now I'm messing with shims. I believe I'm doing this right. Tighten down the cap screws slightly, tighten the bearing expander screws a few turns just to ensure they're lined up, then tighten the cap screws all the way until they stop, then tighten the expander screws fully. With 0.015 and .002 I can barely turn the spindle by hand. I've gotta get a dial indicator in the next few days. I'm using my DTI but a DI would be easier to use and read in this instance.
 
Splat said:
Managed to get a piece of wire into the middle hole and into the felt to hold down while installing the spindle.

Now I'm messing with shims. I believe I'm doing this right. Tighten down the cap screws slightly, tighten the bearing expander screws a few turns just to ensure they're lined up, then tighten the cap screws all the way until they stop, then tighten the expander screws fully. With 0.015 and .002 I can barely turn the spindle by hand. I've gotta get a dial indicator in the next few days. I'm using my DTI but a DI would be easier to use and read in this instance.
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I don't think you have enough shims, start with about .020 to .025 and include a .0005 shim as well in the stack, use a bunch of the thinner shims to get the total so you can remove them a thou or 2 at a time. Then do a lift test to see how many thou of play there is and subtract that from the total stack thickness to determine how much to remove. the goal is between .0007 and .001 of play or as close as you can get to that mark and still be able to turn the spindle by hand easily. Take your time brother and do the lift test as many times as is needed to get it right, it's that important.
 
Spent all day on the spindle, then getting the rest of the parts back on. Hot as hell, even in the basement it was darn muggy. IIRC my shim stack is 0.017(right front) and 0.018(right back) at the chuck end and the same at the rear but opposing, 0.017(LB) and 0.018(LF). Picked up a Horrible Freight digital indicator and it drove me nuts because it's got a lug back. My DTI is dovetail and my Nogaflex is for dovetail so I had to rig up a support for the digi-indicator. I think that took longer than anything else! :banghead: My spindle test results was around 0.0008 for the large bearing and around 0.001 for the smaller bearing. I'm happy with that. She doesn't spin easily by hand, but she does spin a little. Tomorrow I go into work early and then the rest of the day hopefully I'll complete what else needs to be done... Put belt back on, level lathe, do the 2-collars test, make a 7/16" chuck key since I didn't get one with the lathe. I cannot believe it's been a year already and I'm finally (hopefully) getting to almost making chips. Have a good night gents.
 
Run it for awhile with it all oiled up, cups full, run it for about a half hour at varying speeds and put your hand on the bearing caps often to check and see if the caps are getting warm. The clearance is correct. Put a chuck on it and see if she spins freely.
 
Yo guys. Finally picked up a Gates 66" belt. Weird thing I measured my old leather belt and it's roughly 62.5" long. I cut the Gates and put her on the pulleys and pulled it tight and measured around 62.5". From what I've read my H10 with pedestal base should be about 61-7/8".

FRIG! I just noticed a crack on the right side of the cone mount. I didn't notice that before so I wonder if it was from me monkeying with the adjuster. Damn! :angry::angry: Gotta clean it off and maybe a whole lot of JB Weld on it and underneath will hold it from going further.
 
Splat said:
Yo guys. Finally picked up a Gates 66" belt. Weird thing I measured my old leather belt and it's roughly 62.5" long. I cut the Gates and put her on the pulleys and pulled it tight and measured around 62.5". From what I've read my H10 with pedestal base should be about 61-7/8".

FRIG! I just noticed a crack on the right side of the cone mount. I didn't notice that before so I wonder if it was from me monkeying with the adjuster. Damn! :angry::angry: Gotta clean it off and maybe a whole lot of JB Weld on it and underneath will hold it from going further.
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Pics of that crack please! I don't think it was from "monkeying with the adjuster" it was probably already there and you just didn't see it until you tensioned it.
 
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