Splat's new Heavy 10

woodtickgreg said:
Pics of that crack please! I don't think it was from "monkeying with the adjuster" it was probably already there and you just didn't see it until you tensioned it.
Click to expand...

I was taking pics as you was typin' my friend. :) Here it is, and I think you're probably right about it already being there. I'm hoping after cleaning and with enough JB Weld slathered all over it it'll hold.

DSCF0050.JPG
 
Funny.
Man that's a weird place for a crack, the good thing is it will close up when you tension it. I would wire wheel and clean with brake clean or acetone and go with the strongest jb weld like the one that takes 12 or 24 hours to cure. You will probably be ok with that because like I said it will close up when you tension it, coat both sides. I bet you could find one of those mounts cheap as it is not usually a part that fails. JB it and then take your time and look for someone that parts out lathes, bet they have a few laying around.
 
woodtickgreg said:
Funny.
Man that's a weird place for a crack, the good thing is it will close up when you tension it. I would wire wheel and clean with brake clean or acetone and go with the strongest jb weld like the one that takes 12 or 24 hours to cure. You will probably be ok with that because like I said it will close up when you tension it, coat both sides. I bet you could find one of those mounts cheap as it is not usually a part that fails. JB it and then take your time and look for someone that parts out lathes, bet they have a few laying around.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's exactly what I did, Greg. Cleaned with Acetone, scrubbed with steel wool, cleaned again and wiped her down. I'm glad I bought the industrial sized JB Weld last year. I smothered the crack on top and bottom so we'll see what happens. Thought I would get the belt done tonight but I got a curve ball instead but :allgood:.
 
Well, I didn't know the cone base was threaded for the adjusting rod that is attached to the swivel thing on the tensioner handle. I thought it was a non-threaded hole. I broke the rod right where it comes out from the bottom of the cone base. :angry: "Don't work late on important stuff when you're tired! Don't work late on important stuff when you're tired!" Repeat again, and again...... :angry: I should listen to my own darn preaching sometimes. :*****slap2: So now I have to figure out if I can still get the belt tight with the amount of rod left or ...and this is what I figure... I'll have to replace the whole ball/socket/threaded rod. Here's a shot of the part from Ryan's excellent refurbing site (the text on the pic is his):

tensioner 2 notated.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well, I'm ok. I lost the bottom 1/4" off the flat belt adjusting rod but I've still got all the rest of it. I moved the mount almost all the way up. JB Welded the crack in the mount and it looks good. Hopefully tonight I'll get the Gates belt on, run the motor and spindle and check the bearings for warming. Then it'll be leveling the lathe and checking the tailstock for proper height. We're getting there! :)
 
Finally got the belt on and actually got the spindle turning. Checked all the controls on the headstock and apron and all appear to work as intended. :cool2:

After running her slowly for a while to ensure nothing was going to go flying I ran her high for 5 mins. Both bearing caps seemed to warm up a little but the caps for the expander screws on the big bearing cap got hot so I shut her down. I'll do another spindle lift test and see what's what. I may have to add a .0005 shim somewhere. Getting there..... :)
 
Well guys, I'm supremely PO'ed at myself. I crashed my compound into the chuck this morning. Bent the leadscrew. :headache: I ran the feed again towards the chuck to check for damage and, sure enough, now the compound wobbles to/away from the work about 1/16", starting about 5" out all the way to the chuck. This sucks. Luckily the carriage and compound work fine but I'm so ticked at myself .... I had to vent here guys. So now I gotta find a new leadscrew because I highly doubt I can get it aligned. Anyone got a leadscrew for a Heavy 10 with 3.5' bed?
 
Last edited:
Splat said:
Well guys, I'm supremely PO'ed at myself. I crashed my compound into the chuck this morning. Bent the leadscrew. :headache: I ran the feed again towards the chuck to check for damage and, sure enough, now the compound wobbles to/away from the work about 1/16", starting about 5" out all the way to the chuck. This sucks. Luckily the carriage and compound work fine but I'm so ticked at myself .... I had to vent here guys. So now I gotta find a new leadscrew because I highly doubt I can get it aligned. Anyone got a leadscrew for a Heavy 10 with 3.5' bed?
Click to expand...
Oh man that sucks. I thought I saw one on fleabay?
 
woodtickgreg said:
Oh man that sucks. I thought I saw one on fleabay?
Click to expand...

I saw one too but, and the seller's within 40mins of me, but he's got no clue what lathe the leadscrew's from. Judging by what he's telling me it may be the one I need. I'm going to take mine out of the lathe and bring it up there to match it. I know some guys can bend/straighten these leadscrews but .... I may try that yet. I got nothing to lose now!
 
If the lead screw for sale is the same diameter and pitch but longer then you can cut it to the length you need. You may have to turn the ends down to fit bushings or cut the ends off the original shaft and pin them to the new one.

Vlad
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top