Southbend 9".

JimDawson said:
I don't think it really makes any difference. You might need to rotate the dial a bit to get it to line up with the mark on the housing. You'll just have to engage the half-nut and see where it lines up at.
Click to expand...

If the lines don't line up, you can usually loosen the mounting bolt and slide the thread dial in or out (towards or away from the carriage) until it hits a line or number when the half nut is engaged. I like mine timed just a tiny bit ahead, so by the time I react and throw the lever it ends up just a hair off of the line.
 
spongerich said:
If the lines don't line up, you can usually loosen the mounting bolt and slide the thread dial in or out (towards or away from the carriage) until it hits a line or number when the half nut is engaged. I like mine timed just a tiny bit ahead, so by the time I react and throw the lever it ends up just a hair off of the line.
Click to expand...
That makes sense. In reality where the head is in the dial corresponding to the marks makes no difference. So long as you engage it in the same spot as per the directions for the dial. I just wanted to be certain the teeth didn't have to line up with the dial in a particular way.


Regards-Carlo
 
Carlo,

Don't worry about matching the paint color. Paint it any color you want- it is your lathe and if you ever sell it to someone else, they can repainting it. Just use nice, high quality pair. (I used Sherwin- Williams, industrial alkyl enamel. Not cheap, hard to buy, but really nice stuff.
 
We used waterborne paints at the shop but I'm no painter. I'd like to use an epoxy and clear it for protection I don't know what's better enamel or epoxy.

Also I went and took apart the cross slide and compound and I can't figure out how to remove the compound slide from the dovetails. When you fully retract it to slide it off the dovetails it has the front and if you go fully in it hits the lead screw mount. And I do not know how to remove the lead screws either. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.


Regards-Carlo
 
Strtspdlx said:
Also I went and took apart the cross slide and compound and I can't figure out how to remove the compound slide from the dovetails. When you fully retract it to slide it off the dovetails it has the front and if you go fully in it hits the lead screw mount. And I do not know how to remove the lead screws either. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.
Regards-Carlo
Click to expand...

Hi Carlo,
you'll need to remove the gibs from the compound to remove the sliding member as well as the captive screw for the bronze acme nut.
you'll need to remove the handles from the dial feedscrews, and then remove the captive nut.
the captive nuts have a weird screwhead.
i modified a large standard screwdriver by grinding clearance into the center of the blade, and forming the tool to remove the captive nut.
There is bits available from various tool manufacturers. McMaster Carr sells them too (Mcmaster is my favorite goto for oddball stuff)
Be careful, there is a small pin that wedges the handle to the shaft- keep an eye out for it. try to remove it first with a magnet(for ease)
i had to get a little rougher with my disassembly- it was highly stubborn, but it did come off with perseverance on my part.
 
I bought a set of giant "screw driver" 1/2" sockets from HF and slotted the middle of the largest flat blade in the set to remove the captive nut. My lathe needed more torque than a regular (modified) screw driver could provide (or maybe just more strength than my hand/arm could provide to the screwdriver :) ). I also found that I needed the special spanner wrench and an arbor press to complete the disassembly of the lathe (the latter to take one of the gears off a shaft on the apron). (That puny spanner wrench cost the most, but it worked well). Take your time and don' rush the refurbishment. I think those machines are like functional works of art. You'll be happy with the results if you take your time.

Rick
 
I'm trying to take care of all the details I haven't cut with this machine yet so I can't say wether it works or not we shall see I'm still trying to decide if I want to paint it or not and if I do what color. I really like the white that's on it and I have another lathe that's in need of paint also. But my atlas lathe needs a lot of work mostly in the carriage an apron. And it's in need of a QCGB. Now that I have a machine with one I wonder why I didn't fork out the $600 to buy it. I paid $350 for the southbend and 230 for my atlas. If the southbend works out better I'll sacrifice an inch of swing just for the gearbox


Regards-Carlo
 
Hey Carlo. Yeah, get the felts and replace them now since you're tearing down the machine anyway. Do it right the first time, brother! BTW, your QCGB is clean compare to how mine was when I got my Heavy 10l! :) BTW, you don't need a parts washer. Yeah, it'd be nice to have but I refurbished my lathe without one. I do have a slop sink so that helped but a lot of it was just either electrolytic cleaning or letting parks sit overnight in an Acetone/dishwashing soap solution. Whatever works, right?! Take your time and it'll be worth it in the end once you get'er up and running again. Keep us in the loop on the rebuild. We all get like expectant fathers when someone does one of these rebuild threads. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top