SB Rehab/Restoration

spindle bearings

The hole idea is to come up with the recommended lift ( or clearance) you have to shim it to get close. Than you can vary the torque to get the lift you want. Mine requires .0007-.001 clearance on the bearings, i ended with .0007 on the rear bearing with 20# torque and .0008 on the front with 25# torque. It takes some time to come up with the write shim i used plastic in different combinations. I think it was around .025 shim.
 
Good morning guys,well the weather here is not fantastic but I guess alittle better than you guys getting hammered with snow so I'm not going to cry.My little order come in from McMaster-Carr consisted of SS bolts and nuts which I use to give the lathe alittle flash and since the humidity is so bad here,maybe alittle less rusting.Which really makes the lathe finish as far as putting it back together but still need to made some good accurate shavings.
Guys awhile back I ask about how those that have the cabinet style lathe w/three drawers how you organize them so that a person can find something without tossing.I use 16ga metal which is all I had.Using a knockout set to punch holes for the collets which took awhole lot of time.So when I got to the right size hole which was a 2" I broke out the impack which made it alot easier.The holes and not perfect so I'll keep the drawer close when guest comes over.LOL!So I spent the last few days making a tray that will hold all the collets and something that will also hold the 4 different bottles of oil,so here pics of what I come up with.Problem with the tray and having all these collets,it takes up the whole drawer.But its just laying in there on top of a piece of rubber foam that is oil resistance(quite) the tray can be removed.Guys I bet I have a good whole day into this collet tray and still have to paint it.But its made to fit and I think it well worth the extra day.
Now the tray for the oil I was thinking of mounting it underneath the lathe between the motor mounting and the drawers.But now I'm thinking maybe mounting it on the side of the cabinet(outside) so where would you mount it?
My goal was to have this finish by the weekend but its looking like another week then I will say
"Complete" and post some pics of the finish product.Enjoy, and guys thanks for looking----kroll

DSC02321.JPG DSC02323.JPG DSC02324.JPG DSC02325.JPG DSC02327.JPG DSC02328.JPG
 
That is really nice man. Can you make a rough drawing of the dimensions an what not for both of those? I personally would put the oil caddy under the lathe in that useless space between the drive and drawers. On mine, I think I am going to put an expanded meta shelf or two in there
 
I would want the oil caddy on the outside, if it's easy to get to then it will be used. I like my oil in my face as a reminder to oil the machine before I even turn it on.
 
Last edited:
Correction:1" hole not 2" I'm sorry first I use a 1/2 knockout then a 1" knockout.I had to use the 1/2KO due to the bolt size of the 1" KO.
If I learn anything I hope its how to take notes and pics on how something goes back together even if its a yr later and post correctly.One day someone will read my posting and maybe drive to Tx and kick my butt due to my errors so I have better improve.
Now,guys I have taken the thread dial apart for a good cleaning which at first I was just going to do the outside but change my mind and a good thing.It was dragging just a tad so I pulled the dial out and on the bottom side where a bevel is was a thick layer of dirt.And in the housing was a thick layer of dirt,I guess the bevel was made just for that as a relief.Now it did have alittle oil on the shaft so is just any oil OK are does it need to be something special?Guessing it needs to be on the thin side cause there is one of those ball type places for the oil.
Thor on the tray for the collets which I measure one of those cast aluminum trays and just copy it which came out to be 1.750 (1 3/4,I got to start thinking in .001) grid.Using the 1"KO the collet seats just a tad deeper than the cast aluminum but its doable.And it seats up 3.750,but wait till I get it in the drawer with all the collets seating in it giving it a good field test.Today doing more of the accessories cleaning and paint,dang its taking alot of time----kroll
Thor,I like the ideal of a slide out shelve.Wish I would have built one
 
Last edited:
I use a HF step drill with the largest step that fits the larger drive screw in my GB knockout punch set. That way it's easier to align the holes & on small enough sheet metal parts I can use the drill press to make the pilot holes.
 
Uncle Harry,do you have a link to that step drill?I think I know what your talking about but not sure,I would love to have one for the reason that your talking about.---kroll
 
Kroll said:
Uncle Harry,do you have a link to that step drill?I think I know what your talking about but not sure,I would love to have one for the reason that your talking about.---kroll
Click to expand...


I got most of my step drills from Harbor Freight. (WE have 2 stores in the Milwaukee, WI area). MSC, McMaster-Carr etc should also be good sources.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top