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Replacing the broken bearings in my pm1440gs headstock
- Thread starter richl
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2016
- Messages
- 3,866
richl, don't get discouraged. I bought a lathe that was "rode hard and put away (very) wet". I have about 150 hours into it, and it will be a very nice lathe when done. A friend of mine bought a 15" Colchester lathe for cheap... the headstock was seized. After a similar amount of time he has a tremendous lathe.
BTW your 1440 is a MUCH nicer tlathe than the one I'm repairing.
BTW your 1440 is a MUCH nicer tlathe than the one I'm repairing.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,844
richl, sorry for your troubles. I have been through this on a couple of other brands of import machines. Not fun.
Looking at the parts diagram for shaft "B" it looks like the five gears and one spacer (parts 84 through 89) slide into the shaft and are held from rotating by two shaft keys. Based on the diagram the shaft "should" slide out in the direction you are pulling from without removing any other gears or shafts. The small fixed gear on the shaft that engages the large gear (100) on the spindle does not appear to be blocked by anything?
If the gears and spacer are moving with the shaft when you try and pull the shaft they may be a snug or tight fit on the shaft/shaft key. I would put two or three evenly spaced wood blocks between gear 89 and the head casting, then try a combination of tightening your puller and driving the shaft from the pulley side with a brass drift. Tighten, tap, tighten, tap and so on.
The only "hacks" here are the semi-skilled labor at the factory that assembles the machines.
Looking at the parts diagram for shaft "B" it looks like the five gears and one spacer (parts 84 through 89) slide into the shaft and are held from rotating by two shaft keys. Based on the diagram the shaft "should" slide out in the direction you are pulling from without removing any other gears or shafts. The small fixed gear on the shaft that engages the large gear (100) on the spindle does not appear to be blocked by anything?
If the gears and spacer are moving with the shaft when you try and pull the shaft they may be a snug or tight fit on the shaft/shaft key. I would put two or three evenly spaced wood blocks between gear 89 and the head casting, then try a combination of tightening your puller and driving the shaft from the pulley side with a brass drift. Tighten, tap, tighten, tap and so on.
The only "hacks" here are the semi-skilled labor at the factory that assembles the machines.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2013
- Messages
- 498
I am just seeing this, and I really need to look in to this, there is going to be heck raised tomorrow when I get to the office, they should be answering every question that you have. Were you calling or emailing? I will find out. I've been working on a few new machines that we have coming out, and left most of the service to some of the other guys. And it appears that something was missed. Thats not how I want this place to run, that's not how I am.
As far as help, I have had these headstocks apart before, they are not too bad, but can be a pain sometimes if they are tight. Im going to send you my cell phone # in a private message, or you can give me a call tomorrow at work 412-787-2876. I have to find where the disconnect came here, I have people here specifically to answer questions if customers need help. And while the guys may not know exactly how to take things apart, they definitely have the contact info for the factory to get your questions answered if needed.
As far as our warranty, it is the longest of anyone, but no, it does not cover on site service. Id love to do that, but its just impossible at the price point of these machines and how far they are spread around the globe. I am not sure why the people would say that we did not have parts in stock though, we definitely have many parts in stock, I am sure we would have what you needed, but no, we do not have every single phase, but if not,we can get it pretty fast. Anything like a bearing though is a common bearing number, there are no special sizes or anything in these machines. We just spent almost $100,000.00 on parts storage/organization that we will be setting up over the next few months here.
And a big thank you to everyone who helped him out already!
Sorry about the trouble!
Matt
As far as help, I have had these headstocks apart before, they are not too bad, but can be a pain sometimes if they are tight. Im going to send you my cell phone # in a private message, or you can give me a call tomorrow at work 412-787-2876. I have to find where the disconnect came here, I have people here specifically to answer questions if customers need help. And while the guys may not know exactly how to take things apart, they definitely have the contact info for the factory to get your questions answered if needed.
As far as our warranty, it is the longest of anyone, but no, it does not cover on site service. Id love to do that, but its just impossible at the price point of these machines and how far they are spread around the globe. I am not sure why the people would say that we did not have parts in stock though, we definitely have many parts in stock, I am sure we would have what you needed, but no, we do not have every single phase, but if not,we can get it pretty fast. Anything like a bearing though is a common bearing number, there are no special sizes or anything in these machines. We just spent almost $100,000.00 on parts storage/organization that we will be setting up over the next few months here.
And a big thank you to everyone who helped him out already!
Sorry about the trouble!
Matt
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2015
- Messages
- 107
Hello,
This might be a crazy idea, but if the fixed pinion will fit inside the outer race of the bearing, you could use a punch, picks and needle nose pliers to remove the bearing cage. Then position the balls to the bottom. Use a Dremel to grind the lips of the inner and outer races to make room to extract the balls one at a time. Being careful to keep the pinion from making contact with the outer race, you could use your makeshift puller to tension the shaft and tap the other side with a brass rod to remove the shaft. I attached a PDF of the grinding idea.
Hope this helps.
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2013
- Messages
- 895
Hey.
Spoke with matt today, picked his brain on the questions I had. He spent about 10-15minutes going over the procedure and other questions I had.
In a nutshell, the bearings are out.
Procedure:
I used the puller I made on the chuck side. I snuggled it up to keep pressure on it.
I went to the pulley side with my brand new, fresh outta the box 20 oz brass hammer. With a large drift punch I gave the shaft on that end a few solid hits. I went to the puller on the chuck side and tightened it up to keep pressure on it. This frees me up to work on the puller aide.
After about 10minutes of this back and forth, the 2 hears on the pulley side were free from the shaft. I removed them, tapped the shaft some more to get it far enough out of the way to remove the bearing on the pulley side.
Using the same drift punch, tapped the race to push the bearing from its seat.
On the chuck side, the bearing was on the shaft still. I used a conventional bearing puller to remove it.
I made up a material list and sent it to precision Matthew's with my contact info. Waiting on their response.
Light at the end of the tunnel
Procedure:
For this shaft you need to
* remove hi/lo gear shift linkage to all gears to pass
During removal and install
* remove plug on chuck side to have access to bearing
* pull off covers on pulley side to expose bearing
Removal process
* threaded rod into shaft on pulley side. In my case it was 6mmx1.0. I bought a full hardened steel thread rod from mcmaster. I am sure I only used about 4" of it
Precision Matthew's recommends a slide hammer. I made a puller to keep pressure on the shaft while delivering blows to the pulley side. I got this idea from Cadillac and takedeadaim from the hobby machinist forum. It allowed me to do this by myself with out any issues.
The rest is just being careful, and organizing the gears as they come out.
Spoke with matt today, picked his brain on the questions I had. He spent about 10-15minutes going over the procedure and other questions I had.
In a nutshell, the bearings are out.
Procedure:
I used the puller I made on the chuck side. I snuggled it up to keep pressure on it.
I went to the pulley side with my brand new, fresh outta the box 20 oz brass hammer. With a large drift punch I gave the shaft on that end a few solid hits. I went to the puller on the chuck side and tightened it up to keep pressure on it. This frees me up to work on the puller aide.
After about 10minutes of this back and forth, the 2 hears on the pulley side were free from the shaft. I removed them, tapped the shaft some more to get it far enough out of the way to remove the bearing on the pulley side.
Using the same drift punch, tapped the race to push the bearing from its seat.
On the chuck side, the bearing was on the shaft still. I used a conventional bearing puller to remove it.
I made up a material list and sent it to precision Matthew's with my contact info. Waiting on their response.
Light at the end of the tunnel
Procedure:
For this shaft you need to
* remove hi/lo gear shift linkage to all gears to pass
During removal and install
* remove plug on chuck side to have access to bearing
* pull off covers on pulley side to expose bearing
Removal process
* threaded rod into shaft on pulley side. In my case it was 6mmx1.0. I bought a full hardened steel thread rod from mcmaster. I am sure I only used about 4" of it
Precision Matthew's recommends a slide hammer. I made a puller to keep pressure on the shaft while delivering blows to the pulley side. I got this idea from Cadillac and takedeadaim from the hobby machinist forum. It allowed me to do this by myself with out any issues.
The rest is just being careful, and organizing the gears as they come out.
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