Repairing an MT2 socket

After manually removing what is easily accessible how about using Persian blue as "Keith Fenner" shows on his marine shaft videos. (do a YouTube search). Then lap it with one of the milder garnet or diamond compounds as Tom Lipton shows on his recent lapping videos on "oxtoolco" (again do a YouTube search)? Use the milder lapping compounds rather than the coarser valve lapping compounds (or similar)? If those process are good enough for truing and lapping surfaces to better that 0.00001" they ought to work for your MT2.
 
Scraping was darn near impossible due to the size of the hole. I ended up using an MT2 reamer to carefully resurface the spindle. It is still not perfect but most of the high spots are gone. There is also a scored groove in there. After noticing that my carbide center is relieved in the middle of the taper, I am wondering if I should just take a boring bar and make a 1/2" long relief in the middle of the female taper? That would help guarantee that the ends of the taper are properly registered.
I don't think lapping is the answer. That will custom fit the drill chuck to the tailstock and then it will never perfectly fit another MT2 taper.
R
 
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Take your tail stock quill out find where the flats on your MT come drill and tap a couple of flat bottomed set screws to hit the flats and you won't have the problem any more. With the #2 Morris you might have to cut down the end of the tail stock screw or add a screw on the end of your center to remove that kind of stuff but you won't screw up your tail stock bore.

Dave
 
Flats? There are no flats?
R
 
rwm said:
I ended up using an MT2 reamer to carefully resurface the spindle. It is still not perfect but most of the high spots are gone. There is also a scored groove in there. After noticing that my carbide center is relieved in the middle of the taper, I am wondering if I should just take a boring bar and make a 1/2" long relief in the middle of the female taper? That would help guarantee that the ends of the taper are properly registered.
I don't think lapping is the answer. That will custom fit the drill chuck to the tailstock and then it will never perfectly fit another MT2 taper.
R
Click to expand...
If you use a MT2 reamer all careful lapping will do is to polish the surface to ensure a very good fit. It isn't gong to change the profile established by the reamer (or the original profile without a reamer for that matter). Lapping is not comparable to grinding. That is one reason I suggested using lapping compound that is a lot finer that valve grinding compound.
 
rwm said:
Scraping was darn near impossible due to the size of the hole. I ended up using an MT2 reamer to carefully resurface the spindle. It is still not perfect but most of the high spots are gone. There is also a scored groove in there. After noticing that my carbide center is relieved in the middle of the taper, I am wondering if I should just take a boring bar and make a 1/2" long relief in the middle of the female taper? That would help guarantee that the ends of the taper are properly registered.
I don't think lapping is the answer. That will custom fit the drill chuck to the tailstock and then it will never perfectly fit another MT2 taper.
R
Click to expand...

I sympathize with the difficulty in scraping.
After using the reamer how are you identifying that high spots are still there? Have you tried different male tapers to see if you always get the reading for high spots? Hope you don't mind me learning along with you on this.
I would ignore the grooves as long as there are no high spots. If the tools inserted in the quill are relieved in the middle then there is no need to relieve the taper in the quill. If the reamer is true and sharp I would think that another pass with it would do the most good.
 
Since I used the reamer which already has the proper form I did not blue the work. There is still a minimal high spot because one of my centers can be wiggled ever so slightly.
I have one male taper that is relieved. I have about 5 more that are not. I used it yesterday and it seemed fine. I will make a few more passes with the reamer and call it quits.
Robert
 
"Most of the high spots" means not finished yet.

Do not use until "all of the high spots" ....

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Robert, sounds like you are close if only one of the male tapers out of 5 has wiggle.
 
If only one wiggles then something is very wrong as all should act the same.

If the ones that seat are relieved in the center and not rub then fine but if all are full contact then the wiggler has high spots.

You are close but do not use until done.

Ink it up and a felt tip marker works well too.

Locate the high spots and stone them down.



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