Repairing an MT2 socket

Some great ideas here. Thanks Bob. I tried with a rounded jewelers file. The taper is so small I cannot see what I am doing in there even with good lighting and magnification. It's quite a challenge. If the damage were closer to the mouth it would be easy.
So using a dog on the drill or the shank how would the other end be stabilized? Against the tailstock body or the lathe bed? Is there such a thing as a keyed morse taper?
Thinking out of the box: What about cross drilling the spindle and the male taper and putting a pin in there? I have never seen that done.
Robert
 
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rwm said:
Some great ideas here. Thanks Bob. I tried with a rounded jewelers file. The taper is so small I cannot see what I am doing in there even with good lighting and magnification. It's quite a challenge. If the damage were closer to the mouth it would be easy.
So using a dog on the drill or the shank how would the other end be stabilized? Against the tailstock body or the lathe bed? Is there such a thing as a keyed morse taper?
Thinking out of the box: What about cross drilling the spindle and the male taper and putting a pin in there? I have never seen that done.
Robert
Click to expand...
You can use a lathe dog (or make something) and rest it against the compound or cross slide, use a shim to prevent rubbing or scratching of your lathe. There are no keyed Morse tapers, but the tang normally helps to serve that function, though it can get twisted or broken off, it is not designed for stopping rotation, only for extraction. The Chinese lathes do not catch the tang, if your tooling even has tangs. What some people do is put two set screws through opposite sides of the quill to hold the tang. I am not so sure that is a good idea. Another thing to keep in mind is that if you keep making the setup stiffer and more solid, eventually you will get to a point where something much more expensive gets damaged, and you will wish you would have let it spin when the drill jams. Something to think about. I had the same thing happen to my lathe, so I know what you are going through...
 
RWM, beautiful helper you have, her look says 'pass me the vise grips'. Nice looking lathe too.

Personally I would not make provisions to hold great amount of torque in the quill but I am at a loss to justify my bias.
A dog or wrench could be fixed to the shank facing frontwards (at 9 o'clock) with the end resting a block of wood sitting on the bed. This is not ideal either as it could create a lot of lifting force on the TS if the bit snags.
Ideally cutting forces should be managed to create pressure into the tapers and avoid excessive torque or twist on the quill. Defer to boring instead of drilling when excessive torque is expected.
 
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Hi RWM,
all the guys are giving great advice here.
after knocking down the ridge(s),
may i suggest blueing up a male MT2 taper and giving a couple half turns (both directions)
you'll get a blue pattern on the inside of the bore of the female MT2, those are the high spots- Remove Them by reamer, file and/or stone
re-blue and repeat as necessary

if you really wanna go off the deep end, you could construct a copper male MT2 lap and finish to desired lap
 
I hate spinning a bit or arbor in a taper, frequently both mating surfaces get chewed up. I have plastic MT cleaner reamers that do not remove metal but dirt, I use them when I suspect I might be having issues. I spun a MT 2 drill in my tailstock of 10ee, a sad day, very carefully ground out scared area with dremel type tool, and have kept clean since. When doing big drilling I use vise grip for lathe dog on drill bit, with vise grip contacting a scrap of plywood on carriage or ways. The simple solution to keep this from happening is get a variety of boring bars and bore your large holes, takes longer but no damage to sensitive parts of machine and less overall stress.
 
Hi Robert: other than the tailstock issue, how do you like your South Bend? It looks like Grizzly is discounting it heavily now, maybe they are discontinuing that model?
What is that digital readout I see in the picture? RPM?
Mark S.
 
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