Repairing an MT2 socket

[Tozguy]

And there is also the possibility of holding a drill bit in the tool post and advancing the carriage. This is what I would do for hi torque drilling jobs (I think).

 

[rgray]

A correct fitting mt2 tool seated into the tailstock will take anything you throw at it. Must be clean and dry.
That chuck would definitely be a weaker link than the mt2.
Start the clean mt2 in the clean tailstock taper and then slam it as fast as you can into the taper. It will then be very hard to remove if your tailstock won't eject it. If not the taper needs work.

 

[rwm]

I guess I am not a machinist then...

Ha! I have read enough of your posts to know otherewise!

Mark- I like the SB and yes the price is way down. Here is my detailed thread on the 10K
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/the-new-south-bend-10k.30542/

I will try to work in this further with files and stones.

Thanks guys.
R

 

[Bob Korves]

Ha! I have read enough of your posts to know otherewise!

Disclaimer: I have a lot more book learning than dirty and oily hands with slivers in them... :-|

Edit: I have "watched" a lot of great machinists at work, looking over their shoulders, both in person at work, and on YouTube...

 

[Tozguy]

Mark, thanks for the link and the pictures.
I just cobbled together an idea mentioned above so I could have a photo for you.
It is easier to align parallel and on centre than expected.
I am glad that there is now something useful to do with that miserable knurling tool.

 

[rwm]

There is another use for that knurling tool holder. Take out the knurls and replace one with a ball bearing. Then use it to bump center material.

Robert

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

There is another use for that knurling tool holder. Take out the knurls and replace one with a ball bearing. Then use it to bump center material.
Robert

I am surprised that more hobbyists do not use burnishing tools considering how often flawless finishes are required, it looks similar to the above picture.

http://www.elliott-tool.com/outside-carbide-roller-burnishing-tools/

 

[Tozguy]

Whoa, now we are humming, that might be the only way I could get a decent finish!
Love this place. Now we have threee better uses for that miserable knurling tool.

 

[tq60]

Check for a tang fit in the back of the spindle as some have the slot and most do not.

It can help if there.

Not hardened if it galled so it can be cleaned up.

Remove it so you can see what you are doing then focus only on the high spots.

Locate a small chisel and make it sharp.

The chisel is a straight edge that only cuts on the front and acts like a plane.

If the high spot is a rolled up burr the chisel can shear it off.

A chainsaw file can be used but they and other files cut all along the area where they touch so difficult to just get a ridge.

You could sacrifice one as they are cheap to buy.

Grind off all buy a small portion so it can only cut in a small section as that will limit the action to where the damage is.

Sand paper wrapped on a Dowell works well to.

Number 1 thought is take your time and go slow to avoid removing too much.

And only work where the damage is.

If it is a ring if cap then remove that and do not mass with the rest.

Going forward be sure clean of oil and certian no chunk of dirt as anything on the surface makes it not seat.

When inserting slam it in.

Tap with a small soft face happen if you wish.

For things that can grab the drill correct cutter and pressure so it cannot come out.

If pecking come in firm and if it comes out retract more and stop.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

 

[carlquib]

I would blue your male tapers and check the fit. The last taper shank drill I had spin was from a shars set. It spun because the male taper was lousy, when blued it showed contact only in the middle of the taper.

Hello, my name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic!