Repairing an MT2 socket

I would Ck the taper for raised chips and high spots. Then depending on there size I'd stone them and polish with a rod with a slot in the end about 1/2" , I'd get some every cloth fine cut and wrap it through the slot and around the rod chuck it in the chuck turn the lathe on and move the tailstock back and forth a few times adding some oil and polish it internAlly . It shouldn't take more then a couple times . Then clean it well reblue and Ck contact . If not good take a morse taper the same size and had some lapping compound and repeat till it's got good contact . Just an old way of doing it.
 
I would pull the whole tailstock spindle out and then mount it in your 3 jaw chuck. Using emery cloth I would polish out the taper. If there is a gall or high spot the emery cloth would remove that first.
Since the spindle is hardened the emery cloth would remove very little material. If you do not dwell in any one spot for too long you should be able to repair the taper. Bluing and checking the female taper with a male taper should give you a pretty good idea how successful you are in your attempted repair and give you an idea where to remove material and where not to. If you are drilling "grabby" material the edges and angles of the cutting tool can be adjusted to minimize "grabbing". You can get a lot of information from the chip and the feel as you drill. I typed this before I got to page two ......... pretty much what Silverbullet said ...... :)


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Silverbullet said:
I would Ck the taper for raised chips and high spots. Then depending on there size I'd stone them and polish with a rod with a slot in the end about 1/2" , I'd get some every cloth fine cut and wrap it through the slot and around the rod chuck it in the chuck turn the lathe on and move the tailstock back and forth a few times adding some oil and polish it internAlly . It shouldn't take more then a couple times . Then clean it well reblue and Ck contact . If not good take a morse taper the same size and had some lapping compound and repeat till it's got good contact . Just an old way of doing it.
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I respectfully disagree. Taking abrasives to the entire taper just damages the remaining good surfaces. I suggest strongly only addressing spots that you know to be high, on both male and female tapers. It will help to keep the geometry correct, and the work will be bringing the two tapers accurately back together, and not going after them with a broad brush. I do agree with using Prussian blue, carefully and properly, to keep track of progress. Preserve as much of the original surface as possible to use for reference as you work.
 
skinny_jim said:
I would pull the whole tailstock spindle out and then mount it in your 3 jaw chuck. Using emery cloth I would polish out the taper. If there is a gall or high spot the emery cloth would remove that first.
Since the spindle is hardened the emery cloth would remove very little material. If you do not dwell in any one spot for too long you should be able to repair the taper. Bluing and checking the female taper with a male taper should give you a pretty good idea how successful you are in your attempted repair and give you an idea where to remove material and where not to. If you are drilling "grabby" material the edges and angles of the cutting tool can be adjusted to minimize "grabbing". You can get a lot of information from the chip and the feel as you drill. I typed this before I got to page two ......... pretty much what Silverbullet said ...... :)


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Click to expand...
See my reply to Silverbullet in post 33 above...
 
Bob Korves said:
See my reply to Silverbullet in post 33 above...
Click to expand...

Hey! Bob, we are really not too far off ....... I am talking about minimal material removal .0001 - .0005. I have successfully used this technique with buffing pads to remove oxidation and embedded particles. With any luck there is a small high spot and possible only this area need rework. :)


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skinny_jim said:
Hey! Bob, we are really not too far off ....... I am talking about minimal material removal .0001 - .0005. I have successfully used this technique with buffing pads to remove oxidation and embedded particles. With any luck there is a small high spot and possible only this area need rework. :)


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Click to expand...
I had the same issue as the OP. The quill on these import machines must be case hardened. When it spun it took out a groove of metal, maybe .060 wide and deep, for most of a revolution, along with other damage to both surfaces and left hardened edges with soft portions sticking up, on both surfaces, drill chuck and quill taper. It was actually pretty difficult to clean up. A file will not touch the hard stuff, but will dig into the soft underlying metal. It is MT3, so not so hard to get in there as MT2, but still, it took some effort to get it cleaned up so the undamaged parts of the tapers show a good fit with high spot blue.
 
I agree with Bob, in that I would only address the damaged areas that are preventing your tapers from locking. Even if it were so bad you had to bore a half inch length out of the spindle's taper, there would still be lots of good interface remaining.
 
If you need to use a reamer for final cleanup, I think I saw a #2 reamer for sale in the classifieds section of Hobby-Machinist site. Maybe check that out before buying one new at great expense.
 
I'd use a curved three-square scraper ground from a worn-out riffler file, rehardened - once hard it can be stoned razor sharp and should be harder than the TS quill, carefully used it will just take the burrs off (they must be soft or they wouldn't be there)

Dave H. (the other one)
 
If it is not too bad, go to an auto parts store and get some valve grinding compound. Use it and the male drill chuck to lap it in and remove the burrs.
 
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