ran the #12 table past the limit!!

Ok, I made a couple of spanners to get the bearings loosened and then get the table off. Ispection showed everything to be in surprisingly great condition. After reassembly the powerfeed is slipping so I guess I'll find a shearpin under the table but I haven't investigated that yet. Any info would be great. Otherwise I'll dig in again this weekend!!!
 
Ok, I made a couple of spanners to get the bearings loosened and then get the table off. Ispection showed everything to be in surprisingly great condition. After reassembly the powerfeed is slipping so I guess I'll find a shearpin under the table but I haven't investigated that yet. Any info would be great. Otherwise I'll dig in again this weekend!!!

Hi Les,

I've been away on a family emergency.

I'm not aware of any shear pins in the feed mechanism; it's gears and shafts all the way through. If I were you I would take the table back off and see what's going on. You can run the feed both directions and make sure that the left hand bevel gear is turning when the feed is engaged.

Do you still have the original silent chain drive on the feed gearbox?

Cal
 
I found the shearpin where the power feed universal joint fits on the worm gear. Made one on my old Hendy. Used the compound to get the .025 in 1 1/4" taper. Worked great.
Yes the power feed still has the silent chain.
The oilers on the spindle look to have been packed with white grease. It's old and dried so I dug out what I could and added motor oil to cut it a bit. The bearings all run quiet but it wants to heat up. After 30 or so minutes of running at 940 rpms it's warmer to the touch than I like. Enough to leak from the back seal. The drippings then solidified to the consistency of a cold stick of butter. Your thoughts?

Thanks for your help and I'll check back in a few days

Les
 
I found the shearpin where the power feed universal joint fits on the worm gear. Made one on my old Hendy. Used the compound to get the .025 in 1 1/4" taper. Worked great.
Yes the power feed still has the silent chain.
Hi Les,

FWIW, that pin should be a standard taper pin. They have a taper of 1/4" per foot, which would be 0.0260" in 1.250". You can get them an the hardware store. You'll find them all over in a machine tool. They're not really intended shear off, but apparently this one did.

The oilers on the spindle look to have been packed with white grease. It's old and dried so I dug out what I could and added motor oil to cut it a bit. The bearings all run quiet but it wants to heat up. After 30 or so minutes of running at 940 rpms it's warmer to the touch than I like. Enough to leak from the back seal. The drippings then solidified to the consistency of a cold stick of butter. Your thoughts?

Thanks for your help and I'll check back in a few days

Les
Older No. 12s used grease in the front and rear spindle bearings, with a separate oil reservoir for the ring and pinion gears in the middle. Newer machines still use grease for the front bearing and oil for the rear. AFIK, none of them use oil in the front bearing. Post a photo of your cutter-head and the right side of your ram gearbox so that I can see what you have. In the mean time, don't use the machine. You will probably need to take the front and rear end-covers off of the cutter-head and clean out the old grease and the oil, then regrease. (Don't take the spindle apart or remove the rings/nuts that control bearing pre-load.)

Cal
 
Thanks Cal
I'll shoot a couple of pics in the AM and see if I'm smart enough to post them. Probably though I'll get help from my son on Monday!!! LOL

Thanks again,

Les
 
I looked back at my notes and the math was .026. I just figured .025 made more sense. Anyway it drove in nice and tight and I believe it's fine.
Thanks for all your help.

Les
 
Hello Cal, here are the pics you asked for.
Hi Les,

You have an older machine with the ball-bearing gearbox. You cutter-head is the type that uses grease to lubricate both the front and rear spindle bearings.

I see that you have a Universal Subhead installed. Those are handy for weird compound angle setups and can be used for horizontal boring using the Y-axis power feed. But for general use, you will get better rigidity if you use your tooling directly in the cutter-head.

You need to take the subhead off, remove the plate on either end of the cutter-head, clean out all the old grease and oil, then repack the bearings. As I said before, don't take the spindle apart or do anything that will change the bearing pre-load. Use kerosene or mineral spirits to flush out the old grease. You should probably check again after 10 or 12 hours of use, adding a little more grease if necessary. Don't overpack: the bearings themselves should be about 50% full. If you pack them full, then roll the spindle around and let the excess squeeze out you should be OK. If you pack the bearing and the cavity completely full, the grease can't circulate and the bearing may overheat.

I use Mobilith SHC 100 grease. It's a full synthetic grease designed for electric motors, but will work great here since it's a high RPM, high temperature grease.

The large caps on the grease fitting are designed to be turned in a little at a time to force more grease into the bearing. I wouldn't bother with them: with a synthetic grease like SHC 100, you can probably leave the bearings alone once properly packed. Check them once a year when you change the oil on the cutter-head.

BTW, I misspoke before: all of the machines used grease in the rear bearing; the front bearing on newer heads is lubricated by the oil in the main sump. I had it backwards.

Cal
 
Thanks Cal, I ordered the grease and should get it in today. Might get a chance to work on it this weekend.

Thanks again

Les
 
I finally got a little time this weekend to get back on the machine. i removed the subhead and the tapered shaft in the spindle. The parts diagram that I have doesn't match the machine I have as far as the "collar" on the back side of the cutter head. I was about to remove it with a couple of spanner wrenches, and then wondered if this could be loading the rear bearing. Your thoughts?
 
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