ran the #12 table past the limit!!

Cal
I made a 3 pin spanner and was able to get the first part out pretty easy, but it still is jammed
I see another 3 pin part that looks to be the same hole pattern but isnt,,
that particular part is very very hard to get off..

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photo-4.JPG Is this the part that needs to come out as well?

photo-4.JPG
 
eddysykes said:
Cal
I made a 3 pin spanner and was able to get the first part out pretty easy, but it still is jammed
I see another 3 pin part that looks to be the same hole pattern but isnt,,
that particular part is very very hard to get off..

- - - Updated - - -

View attachment 68411
Is this the part that needs to come out as well?
Click to expand...
The collar that you removed is the part that clamps the inner races of the two bearings against a shoulder on leadscrew, on the other side of the bearings. The inner ring clamps the outer races of the bearings to the table casting. The leadscrew should now be free to travel to the right, coming out of the bearings. You shouldn't need to remove the inner ring to pull the leadscrew.

I would try giving the left end of the leadscrew solid taps, with a block of wood in place to protect the end, while an assistant holds pressure on the right handle in the direction to move the table to the right. Shoot a good penetrant (not WD-40) around the leadscrew-bearing interface and let it sit for a while. Don't go nuts beating on the leadscrew. The idea is for the impacts to help you break the screw loose. If it doesn't move after a few attempts, apply more penetrant and try again tomorrow; repeat.

Cal
 
I try to digest this, but wonder if two people with a steady pressure would do it? Things happen I know my "extreme" stops are cast into the
housing (as well as two adjuable stops) feel bad just go slow at it....
 
the beatings have begun>>
Was wondering if removing the inner race would do anything whatsoever, ;
I also disengaged the feed gear be removing the cast iron cover and pivoting down the spur(?) gear..
the up side is that I am getting to know the machine way more then I was planning..
 
I don't think that removing the ring that holds the inner race will help.

A couple more things to trY:

Unbolt the right side bracket and see if you can get the leadscrew to move. The only thing holding the leadscrew at that point is the big ACME nut in the saddle. If it's not bound up, you should be able to unscrew the leadscrew.

Loosen or remove the table gib: The table gib is in the saddle, against the front side of the table dovetail. There's a screw in either end that controls its position. The screw on the right has a slot that locks into a notch on the right end of the gib (see photos). To loosen the gib you back off the right screw and tighten the left screw. Keep switching sides until the gib moves easily. If the screw on the right won't back off, remove the left screw and use a brass drift to tap on the left end of the gib, periodically backing off the right screw. Once the gib is out, you should be able to coax the table to move left by grabbing the right end and pushing and pulling at right angles to the leadscrew (your trying to apply a twisting force to the table). You can also try careful, cushioned blows to the right end of the table.

Cal

IMG_8207.jpg IMG_8208.jpg IMG_8209.jpg IMG_8210.jpg IMG_8211.jpg
 
eddysykes said:
...
I got a set of collets from cheap tools and everything worked out good except for the threads on one of the collets.
It was pretty crappy and I was wondering what the pitch is so I can chase them a bit.( I dont have a thread gauge)
Or if by any luck there is die that I can get that will make the job easy.
Click to expand...
The thread on the collets is a special thread, 0.775-18.
It's very unlikely that you'll find a die in that size. Use the threads on the other collets to verify that the pitch of the threads on the bad collet is right. You could try chasing the bad threads on the lathe, but you'll probably have as much luck with an 18-pitch thread repair file or just a diamond-shaped file. If you want to get fancy, thread the ID of a piece of brass 18 TPI, so that it's a tight fit to your good collets, split it, charge it with fine abrasive and use it to lap the threads on the bad collet.

Cal
 
+1 to the gibs...loosen those and give the table several good blows with a *rubber* mallet or deadblow hammer. Should relieve enough tension to be able to crank the table back over. Be sure you keep the power feed toggle on the table in neutral!
 
Thanks for the help
I will give that a try today.. Man, I hope that works..
Its been a very painful few days..
E
 
Ok, I have been taking a break from this for a bit, but have been giving it penetrating oil and a few wacks every day since.. I removed the gib and I will post what that looks like tomorrow.. it has some specific looking notches milled into it and I didnt see those on Cals photo
Anyway, and all to say that there has been no remedy as of yet.. the table is free to move in the way described by you guys so I hope I am getting close.. but other then systematically taking this thing apart piece by piece, It isnt giving up the fight!!!
More updates tomorrow!!
 
eddysykes said:
Ok, I have been taking a break from this for a bit, but have been giving it penetrating oil and a few wacks every day since.. I removed the gib and I will post what that looks like tomorrow.. it has some specific looking notches milled into it and I didnt see those on Cals photo
Anyway, and all to say that there has been no remedy as of yet.. the table is free to move in the way described by you guys so I hope I am getting close.. but other then systematically taking this thing apart piece by piece, It isnt giving up the fight!!!
More updates tomorrow!!
Click to expand...
The gib should have two notches in the right end for the right gib screw.

You say the table is free to move, but it's still stuck. How does it move and what's stuck?

Cal
 
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