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Pictures of things made in Home Shop CNC

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TomS

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#61
Steve - you never cease to amaze me. No matter the challenge you have a knack for figuring out complex machining problems.

Tom S
 

TomS

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#63
The bozo that installed the cabinets in my son and daughter-in-law's kitchen decided he didn't need to layout the screw holes so he drilled them by eye. You can imagine how crappy that looks. So I'm making 40 cabinet handle escutcheons that will allow me to drill correctly laid out screw holes and hide the mis-drilled holes. The escutcheons are made of 6061 aluminum, are 1-1/4" wide by 6" long. The step is 1/16" wide by 1/16" deep. Not a complicated part but I get to use my CNC mill. What could be better?

Tom S.

20151007_155249_resized.jpg

20151007_155259_resized.jpg
 

derf

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#68
How does it work actually winding line? Just curious about the rate of traverse compared to the the rate of filling the spool with line. No doubt the spool speed and the screw speed are different,no?
 

jumps4

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#69
Nice work Tom, all the little things add up over time to make large projects easier to figure out.

Derf, the line is not laid down on the spool at a set pattern, always against the last pass.
but more of an uneven ratio so it will not spool up on itself.
Steve

spool.jpg
 

bpratl

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#71
Looks good, is that a placard or a cover for a piece of equipment?
What text software did you use and how long did it take to machine with your high speed spindle?
Bob
 

TomS

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#72
Looks good, is that a placard or a cover for a piece of equipment?
What text software did you use and how long did it take to machine with your high speed spindle?
Bob
First I'd like to say thanks to those that helped me get through some software glitches. Without their help I'd still be scratching my head trying to figure it out.

Yes, it's a placard for my mill. My focus was to learn engraving but I also wanted to make something that wouldn't be useless when I was done. I use the eMachineShop CAD program for drawing. It has a text function that I used. It was a bit of a learning curve to figure out but I got it done. My CAM software is D2NC. It's a fairly basic program and I had issues it with too. For some reason it did not like the letter "S". Kept locking up the program. My work around was to change the top line from "CHIPMASTER" to "CHIPMAKER". After doing that everything worked as it should.

Using a 1/16" 3 flute HSS end mill at a .005" DOC with 50% stepover I cut all the letters in about 27 minutes. Total DOC is .030". For info the RPM was 26,000 and feedrate was 79.5 IPM. I could have used a 1/8" end mill and and cut them in about 10 minutes but I don't have a 3/8" collet for my router, yet.

Thanks for asking.

Tom S.
 

chevydyl

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#73
Does you software do text-to-curve? That's a fun one, I use BobCAD-CAM which does the cool fit text to curve. Glad to see that you got your router cutting it up. Nice job
 

TomS

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#74
Does you software do text-to-curve? That's a fun one, I use BobCAD-CAM which does the cool fit text to curve. Glad to see that you got your router cutting it up. Nice job
What is text-to-curve? Is it text aligned to a radius as opposed to a straight line?

The router works great. Cuts down significantly on cycle time.

Tom S.
 

chevydyl

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#75
Yes it is tom, not only a radius on a flat part, but also planer, like a 3d roll if you will, it will fit curves in multiple axis
 

TomS

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#76
Yes it is tom, not only a radius on a flat part, but also planer, like a 3d roll if you will, it will fit curves in multiple axis
Ah! I understand now. I don't think my CAM software has that feature but will check it out. I run D2NC which is a fairly basic program.

Tom S.
 

Metal

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#77
So after seeing battlebots on TV, I decided thats a thing I needed to do.
With some investigation, I found out there are pretty frequent smaller weight class fights in the north east, so then this happened

CAD:
bluesaw_zpspoywp1cx.jpg

And the reality (every part machined on my hobby mill!)
cf6a71ba-9331-4d70-a5a5-ef1bf348e380_zpsepsx5r6w.jpg
 

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Jonesturf

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#78
So after seeing battlebots on TV, I decided thats a thing I needed to do.
With some investigation, I found out there are pretty frequent smaller weight class fights in the north east, so then this happened

CAD:
bluesaw_zpspoywp1cx.jpg

And the reality (every part machined on my hobby mill!)
cf6a71ba-9331-4d70-a5a5-ef1bf348e380_zpsepsx5r6w.jpg
Can you make a video of it wrecking something like a teddy bear?


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Metal

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#79
Can you make a video of it wrecking something like a teddy bear?
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Its taken apart right now for the second version, it punches through 1/8" steel I dont think something like that would be very entertaining, just a teddy bear getting a hole popped into it.
 

jbolt

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#80
While I am waiting for my new lathe I had a chance to work on the CNC router. I need to make some machine button labels and a control box cover plate out of engraving plastic. I thought I would try my hand at a small vacuum table. This is the first go around. I have an old vacuum pump I though I would try so I went with a grid system that uses rubber cord to section off the areas to be clamped.

The table is made from two pieces of 3/4" MDF with air channels cut in the middle section where they are glued together. The passages when assembled are 0.260" square. I'm not sure if this is enough or not. The channels were sealed prior to gluing to avoid pulling air through the MDF. The top board has a 1/4" through hole at the end of the channel.

Vac 1.png Vac 2.png

I was not sure how tight the channels needed to be I cut them 0.200" for a 0.250" cord. This has turned out to be too tight. I later found a thread on the net where the channels are cut 0.010" under in width and 0.020" in depth so I will re-cut those. Here is the first grid cut with several coats of sealer. The cord I'm using is 1/4" OD silicon tubing I already have. I'm not sure the tubing is ridged enough to create a seal. If not I will get some solid rubber cord.

Vac 3.png

The inlet ports will be drilled and tapped for a 1/4" IP thread. Each port will have a mini ball valve connected to a manifold. I did some pressure tests on the vacuum pump I have and it is only pulling 15 inches. It is only a 1.5 CFM pump so I'm betting it will not work as planned. I have a 5 gallon air tank I will try and use as a pre-chamber to see if I can get an initial pull and then see if the vacuum pump can maintain the seal. Vacuum pumps are pretty inexpensive these days so I may look at a new one if this does not work.

If I can get this to work the next question will be if the thin 1/16" engraving plastic will pull flat enough to engrave properly. The simple thing to do would be to use double sided tape to hold the plastic but whats the fun in that!
 

jbolt

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#81
I changed the oil in my vacuum pump and it is now pulling 27 inches so that's good. The silicone tubing does not seem to be working so I got some 1/4" soft burna rubber cord. I re-cut the grid to 0.240" wide. The rubber cord is a little tight but not bad. With one port hooked up I can pull a vacuum on 1/16" and 1/8" metal but the 1/16" engraving plastic is is not stiff enough to get a seal. I'm still not sure if the volume is too low with the pump only being 1.5 cfm. I see other systems using 5 and 6 cfm pumps. I'm still waiting for some fittings to do the manifold.

20160324_193453.png 20160324_193518.png
 

jbolt

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#82
I got the manifold put together and everything plumbed. I also picked up a 5 cfm 2-stage pump. The Burna rubber cord works great on thick material but not on the thin materiel. With the higher cfm pump the silicone tubing works on the thin plastic. I'm only getting 7-8 inches of vacuum. I'm not sure what I should be expecting. I'm thinking a square gasket may work better. There is a company called AllStar that sells gasketing material specifically for vacuum fixtures so I'm going to try some of that.

20160326_144018.png 20160326_145427.png 20160326_145436.png
 

TomS

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#83
I've been wanting to put side mirrors on my Can Am Commander for a while but couldn't come up with a good enough reason to spend $200 to $300. So I did some searching on eBay and found a set of mirrors that had the features I wanted and the price was right, about $35 for the pair. I won't bore you anymore with my gibber gabber. Here are pictures of the finished product.

20160428_083300_resized.jpg

20160428_083436_resized.jpg

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tackit

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#85
It's great to see so many cool projects. I'll never get to you guys levels of machining but I get ideas from your work that I might be able to use on building some of my lesser skilled projects. Thanks to all for the pictures.
 

compsurge

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#86
Nonsense. It takes practice and determination to learn new skills and achieve success in your projects. Give it time. And a lot of scrap :)
 

countryguy

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#87
simply AMAZING!!! Would love to see you consider a YouTube video of a project end to end. I would be so interested in watching how you do this great work!

In 2006 I purchased my first lathe and mill from Harbor Freight with no idea how to use them
since then I have built (converted to cnc ) all of my cnc equipment from scratch not kits and have a lot I'd like to show...
 

wayne.inspain

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#89
bloody hell!!!! that stuff is fantastic, so much to learn, I started this hobby toooooo late in life, lol
 

jumps4

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#90
simply AMAZING!!! Would love to see you consider a YouTube video of a project end to end. I would be so interested in watching how you do this great work!
I'm sorry for the slow reply, My lists I follow keep getting wiped out so I don't get an email.
I have 81 videos on Youtube some good some not very good quality.
search for jumps42009
Thank you for your interest
Steve
 
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