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Pictures of things made in Home Shop CNC

Metal

Active Member
Active Member
#92
Hey guys, working on the 2nd version of that fighting robot a few posts up, It would be a HUGE boon if someone with a 4th axis could turn out 2 parts for it, rather than I try a hokey convex cutter plan to make it >.>
 

09kevin

Active User
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#93
Hey guys, working on the 2nd version of that fighting robot a few posts up, It would be a HUGE boon if someone with a 4th axis could turn out 2 parts for it, rather than I try a hokey convex cutter plan to make it >.>

Hi Metal, What do the parts look like? When would you need them? What material are they made from?

Kevin
 

Metal

Active Member
Active Member
#94
Hey Kevin, the next fight is 10/8, so hopefully a little before that to make any adjustments, I need two of them, and honestly I could machine the entire thing minus the pulley groove myself, I just have no way of cutting that kind of thing since it is an eccentric cam... pulley... thing, to try and get more velocity out of the hammer

image link: https://s10.postimg.org/3n7ajrpgp/camshaft.jpg

upload_2016-8-25_16-42-58.png
 
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09kevin

Active User
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#95
Hey Kevin, the next fight is 10/8, so hopefully a little before that to make any adjustments, I need two of them, and honestly I could machine the entire thing minus the pulley groove myself, I just have no way of cutting that kind of thing since it is an eccentric cam... pulley... thing, to try and get more velocity out of the hammer

image link: https://s10.postimg.org/3n7ajrpgp/camshaft.jpg

camshaft.jpg
 

09kevin

Active User
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#96
I can't see the "V" shape of the pulley in the picture but, I think if you used a keyway cutter with a full radius you could 3D the V profile and it would be easier than cutting the part on a 4th axis with a form cutter or small ballnose endmill
 

Boswell

Hobby Machinist since 2010
H-M Supporter-Premium
#99
That 3d Printer looks pretty nice. I also looks like a large build volume. Does it have a heated bed?
 

cs900

maker of chips
Active Member
That 3d Printer looks pretty nice. I also looks like a large build volume. Does it have a heated bed?
yes sir, it has a solid state relay powering a 110VAC mains heating pad. gets up to temperature in about 90 sec. The build table is made from a slab of Mic6 so the heat distribution is great as well. The build volume is decent size. If I recall correctly it's around 10"(x) x 10"(y) x 11"(z). I'll have to check my soft limit settings to see the exact size.

If any one is interested I can get more pictures of it.
 

TomS

Active User
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I was able to buy a set of aluminum factory rims at a good price to replace the steel ones on my Can Am Commander. The center caps mount on the steel rims and on the aluminum rims they mount on the hub. The problem is the hubs are not drilled for a center cap.

This gave me the opportunity to make some parts using Cambam which I purchased a couple of months ago. Can't say I didn't make a few "extra" parts but I did learn a lot.

Tom S.

Original steel rim and cap.
20160911_100403_resized.jpg

Aluminum factory rim. No place to mount the center cap.
20160911_100411_resized.jpg

I made four of these adapters to mount the center caps to the hub. The center hole is a slip fit over the 18mm threaded end of the spindle. The larger counterbore is for a 1-1/16" socket. New style center cap on the right.
20160911_100038_resized.jpg

Here is the adapter and cap mounted on the hub.
20160911_100147_resized.jpg

And with the wheel installed.
20160911_100601_resized.jpg
 

TomS

Active User
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Put in a few more hours playing with Cambam and was able to finish up a gas cap for the Commander.

Tom S.


All operations came out as planned except for the text. Not sure what caused the "tails". The letters don't look anything like my drawing.

20160916_133029_resized_1.jpg

The threads were the hardest part. They are 3/32" radius, about .110" deep and 1/4" pitch. Had to cut them by hand cranking the lathe spindle because my reflexes aren't quick enough to keep from crashing the cutter into the shoulder under power.
20160916_133103_resized_1.jpg

And here it is installed.
20160916_133243_resized_1.jpg
 

Boswell

Hobby Machinist since 2010
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Tom, that is a very nice looking fuel cap. How did you the Infil painting? The threads look great. A few times I have used the powerfeed until I got close then stopped the motor with the gears engaged so I could turn the last bit by hand. Especially on Inside threads into a blind hole. I seam to remember having some un-expected motions on Text when I was using CamBam. I don't think I ever got to the bottom of it before I moved to BobCad.
 

TomS

Active User
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Tom, that is a very nice looking fuel cap. How did you the Infil painting? The threads look great. A few times I have used the powerfeed until I got close then stopped the motor with the gears engaged so I could turn the last bit by hand. Especially on Inside threads into a blind hole. I seam to remember having some un-expected motions on Text when I was using CamBam. I don't think I ever got to the bottom of it before I moved to BobCad.
Actually the painting was easy. I dipped a screwdriver into the can of paint and let it drip into the cavities. That was it.

Tom S.
 

TomS

Active User
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Looks great Tom. Have you ever cut threads from the back side of the part with the spindle in reverse?
That would have worked except my lathe won't go into reverse mode. I've been meaning to fix it but haven't made it a priority. Shame on me.

Tom S.
 

Groundhog

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Tom, I make emblems that have lettering and designs similar to the lettering on your fuel cap. The "tails" I experience are usually from wayward entry and/or exit settings of the cutter. So much so that a lot of the time I just slow the feed rate way down and do not use a ramp (helix, 3D path, etc) entry at all - just plunge at each level. For some of the fine detail I am using a high-speed spindle with end-mills in the neighborhood of 0.010", so easy entry is important.

View media item 95466 USMC emblem is about 2.25" diameter

As a side note, I've managed to figure out ways to powder coat the designs instead of paint. Makes for a very durable product. Finish is usually either satin, burnished or polished to a chrome-like surface.
 
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TomS

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
Tom, I make emblems that have lettering and designs similar to the lettering on your fuel cap. The "tails" I experience are usually from wayward entry and/or exit settings of the cutter. So much so that a lot of the time I just slow the feed rate way down and do not use a ramp (helix, 3D path, etc) entry at all - just plunge at each level. For some of the fine detail I am using a high-speed spindle with end-mills in the neighborhood of 0.010", so easy entry is important.

View media item 95466 USMC emblem is about 2.25" diameter

As a side note, I've managed to figure out ways to powder coat the designs instead of paint. Makes for a very durable product. Finish is usually either satin, burnished or polished to a chrome-like surface.
I think you hit on it. I had "tangent with a .125" radius" set as my leadout setting. I'll play with it in the morning.

Couldn't open your attachment. I get a forum failure error.

Tom S.
 

Groundhog

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Attachment is just a picture of an emblem I made. Am I doing something wrong when I add the image to the post?
 

TomS

Active User
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Attachment is just a picture of an emblem I made. Am I doing something wrong when I add the image to the post?
This is the error I'm getting.

Tom S.

The Hobby-Machinist - The FRIENDLY Machinist Forum - Error
You do not have permission to view media within this album.
 

Groundhog

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I made an album to save the picture in instead of saving it to "members area" as I have before. I just noticed that the album is not for public viewing and I don't know how to make it public. So I moved it to the members area. Can someone tell me how to make my album public?
 
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TomS

Active User
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Had a slow day in the shop so I thought it would be a good idea to setup my tool rack with a numbering system. I rarely have a job that takes more than four tools but it's always in the back of my mind that I not pick up the incorrect tool. Having them in a numbered rack hopefully will lessen the likelyhood that will happen.

Tags are 1/16" x 9/16" x 1-3/8" held in with a couple of #6 screws.
20161024_135519_resized.jpg

20161024_135654_resized.jpg

Tom S.
 

cs900

maker of chips
Active Member
Had a slow day in the shop so I thought it would be a good idea to setup my tool rack with a numbering system. I rarely have a job that takes more than four tools but it's always in the back of my mind that I not pick up the incorrect tool. Having them in a numbered rack hopefully will lessen the likelyhood that will happen.

Tags are 1/16" x 9/16" x 1-3/8" held in with a couple of #6 screws.
Tom S.
Tom, I do the exact same thing with my tool holder. You may want to go one step further if you have a standard tool numbering and write the number of the tool on the holder as well. It's a good back-up in case "someone" puts a holder back in the wrong spot.
 

TomS

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I've been watching the Fusion 360 video tutorials and playing around with it for a couple of months with the intent of learning enough to do some 3D machining. I finally got to where I can generate workable gcode. Here's a few pictures of my first attempt.

Tom S.

The two holes are not intentional. I used material from my scrap box and the holes were already there. I had tried some code at 1" total stepdown that didn't work out so well. This attempt was done at 1/2" total stepdown. That's why there are machining lines lines that show up just below the edge radius.
20161102_141242_resized.jpg

I roughed out the general shape with a 1/4" carbide end mill leaving .020" all around, then followed up with a 3/8" ball end mill semi-finishing pass taking .015" DOC. Finish pass was with the same ball end mill at .005" DOC.
20161102_141248_resized.jpg

The finish could have been smoother. Still learning!
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