I ran CNC at work, never had the opportunity to play, now I wish I had the capability, but can 't rationalize it. I've become pretty proficient with MNC and that allows me to make things, but you can't play with MNC. [MNC, manual numeric, etc. ]
I designed this part, I just started doodling with my cad program until I came up with something that looked interesting and would be fun to machine.
I circle milled a half inch hole thru so I could use a 1/2-13 stud that I threaded into a spud that was held in the 3 jaw chuck. I wasn't really worried about the part being concentric or I would have machined a one piece spud on the lathe, I was surprised that the part ran within .005 when I checked it.
I need more practice polishing! I use fine sandpaper then use a buffing wheel with polishing compound. There are probably some good tips I could use on polishing in this forum, I just haven't taken the time to search for them.
figured while 'm pretty new here I know everyone likes pics so I'll share a few of my projects.
This one is a jewelry box I made for my wife this last X-mas it's 6.25" around and 3" deep the bowl part was made on a manual lathe from a solid piece of 6061 aluminum I had laying around. The wall thickness is .125 The lid all the way around and the base as well. The lid was a sheet of .120 thick 6061 that was also waiting for a project to claim it. there is a total clearance of .0025 on each side. this was cut on the cnc and tabs was used to hold it when cut.
I have one other project I'll show off as well in the next post.
ok so here is the chess set I made as well. This was done on a hass lathe.
both side are solid 6061 aluminum the back two tone side was powder coated and the the final milling steps where done o give it the added two tone look. plus you'll find I'm one of the odd balls that love the look of tooling paths in a great finish. I simply like to see who things where cut, yet leave a smooth mirror like finish. I'm assuming this pics well be big therefore I'm leaving them as thumbnails for now.
thanks man Now I just need to make a new chess board the one in the pic is for my marble chess set I got when I was in the sand box. I should get more close up pics of the chess pieces. I'm also currently working on a lot of tooling setup and mill lathe mods that will all be done on cnc.
Are those 1" tool holders AXA, BXA or CXA? Probably the latter but if they are AXA, would you sell just one of them? I have a 12x36 with an AXA (100 Series) QCTP and I need exactly one 101 style tool holder for it that will hold the 1" tall Armstrong style shank on a nice corner rounder that I bought.
Honestly not sure because i machined all 6 at one time simpky repeating each step 6 times untol they where all ready for the next step it toke around 10 hours to load in the machines. Edit a lot of items like tools and doing re measurements and tons of other items that comes along.
would love it if you do a thread on the blackening you do. I have used heat and dip in oil with some success, the two things I found most important with this method is clean steel, and even red heat, but you can't let it scale. also cold bluing is a quick way to get a nice looking finish. Clean oil and baking at around 400 deg F I have got a kind of antique bronze looking finish. (I was going for black but it looked so cool I left it)
I haven't posted anything lately so I thought I would put up this weeks project.
I have a friend who has a winch for his parasail that he pulls behind a truck. The winch works fine
except on the rewinding of the line, you have to guide it onto the spool by hand to keep it from piling up in the center or one side.
He asked me to design a level line system like what is used on power winches and some fishing reels.
I needed to make a self reversing diamond thread shaft. These shafts are probably manufactured on a purpose built machine because
I could not find any information where someone has shown how to make one. So I figured it out after a day of trial and error.
I have included the emachineshop drawing and I'm wrapping the two lines around the Y axis 6 times in a length of 5" in d2nc to make the screw.
the zip file has the dxf file the emachineshop drawing and the tap file made with d2nc (g-code) for mach3.
with a .125 4 flute carbide endmill at 50 degrees per minute and 6000 rpm it took 12 hours to rough out and 1.5 hours for finish passes.
Thanks for viewing
Thank you for your kind words
I have to admit I find the challenge of figuring out how to make something with the tools I have built and the skills I have learned more interesting than watching the machines run for 12 hours....
In total it took 4 days to figure out how the get the machine to produce the screw and machine it and the follower.
feeds and speeds was an issue, my mill's spindle only turns 1980 rpm and that's slow for a 1/8" cutter. I began with that but 9 hours in and at only .060 deep
the cutter must have caught a burr and it snapped. ( this cold roll was really gummy ) at that rate the machine time would have been over 18 hours. I went with my high speed spindle then at 6000 rpm and this caused a different issue. the cutter is turning so fast it does not grab the material with every tooth and it will skip and jump unless it is under a lot of side force to maintain contact and consistent chip load. once I got it set correctly the second cutter survived the remainder of the job and is still sharp.
A problem in mach3 I have found is that it does not know the diameter of the stock in the rotary axis that the cutting speed for surface compared to rotary is wrong. the speed calculated for the cutter was 12 Ipm at 6000 rpm but when translated to rotary at a 1" diameter the actual speed had to be increased to 50 ipm and that equaled 50 degrees of rotation per minute.
All the software I use is either free or very low cost, Emachineshop for cad, D2nc for cam, G-Wizard CNC Calculator for speeds and cutter deflection and Mach3 for control.