New (Used) Enerpac Press (Help!- needs work)

rwm said:
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I really wish I could surface grind that table! I know it is totally unnecessary but it would look great. I may have to resort to sandpaper!
Robert
Click to expand...

If flat filing won't satisfy your cosmetics, maybe use the two holes in the platen to attach a surface ground plate. :drool:

PS: Before you repaint, please fill that ill-advised tapped hole (setscrew) as part of your refurbishment. I promise not to tell anyone. :shhh:
 
I did not do that! The hole may actually be factory to keep the cylinder from rotating. I will research!
I am going to try grinding the table with a flat stone by hand. Experimental.
R
 
I was able to scrape the threads and the cylinder now screws in all the way!

1586981231825.png
You can see I got the table shined up a little. If someone wants to surface grind that for me.....

Robert
 
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Ok- Hydraulic questions: How should I put together the 3/8 NPT connections? Teflon tape? Another sealant? Dry?
How do I bleed the system? There is a plug on the top of the cylinder. It that a bleed valve?
The Enerpac gauge adapter is somewhat expensive but I really want to use the gauge so I think I will spring for it. (eBay not new) I thought about making one but I do not have the 3/8 NPT tap and I have never cut a 3/8 NPT male thread. I assume that would have to be done between centers with tailstock offset?
Robert
 
Teflon tape will be fine. You don't really have to bleed the system, just make a couple of full strokes of the cylinder with the pump higher than the top of the cylinder. Due to the design, it will self bleed.

A tailstock offset would be one way to do it.
 
rwm said:
Ok- Hydraulic questions: How should I put together the 3/8 NPT connections? Teflon tape? Another sealant? Dry?
How do I bleed the system? There is a plug on the top of the cylinder. It that a bleed valve?
The Enerpac gauge adapter is somewhat expensive but I really want to use the gauge so I think I will spring for it. (eBay not new) I thought about making one but I do not have the 3/8 NPT tap and I have never cut a 3/8 NPT male thread. I assume that would have to be done between centers with tailstock offset?
Robert
Click to expand...

I can't see why you can't just thread the gauge to that port on top of the cylinder. Hydraulic fitting are different because of pressures involved wall thickness on fittings are thicker. I would not use black pipe or any kind of fittings used for plumbing. The only way I'd make one is if it was speced off a hydraulic fitting and I'd probably make it even thicker for my own comfort. Teflon is fine for sealing the threads or a paste.
 
I use Teflon tape on the NPT threads.

I think the "plug" in the bottom of the cylinder body is actually the anchor for the return spring (inside the cylinder). Don't mess with it.

To bleed the system, use the pump to fully extend the cylinder. With the pump and hose above the cylinder, release the needle valve to allow the cylinder to retract. Any trapped air will be flushed back through the hose/pump and vented from the reservoir.

Don't consider yourself limited to using an Enerpac gauge adapter. You can get 10,000 PSI rated fittings at (almost?) any hydraulics supplier (to put a gauge wherever you want it).
 
rwm said:
The Enerpac gauge adapter is somewhat expensive but I really want to use the gauge so I think I will spring for it.
Click to expand...
The usual scheme attaches the gauge adapter to the pump, not the cylinder, so the gauge
might not point the right way... and I think the 'pipe thread' fittings are NPTF, which
should work fine 'dry'. It's NOT exactly NPT.
 
The cheapest non- enerpac tee fitting I could find on eBay was $32. There are some cheaper fitting rated at 4000 PSI. In fact I am having trouble finding fittings rated high enough. Most manufacturers conform to SAE 140424 which is not adequate.
All the press systems I have seen have the gauge on the cylinder. I assume that is so you can watch the work and the gauge at the same time. Thanks for the tip on the cylinder plug. I unscrewed it partially but then screwed it back in when I realized the size would not work. I hope I didn't mess up the spring? Interesting about NPTF, thanks
Robert
 
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I got some work done on this while the site was down:

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So I cranked it up to 5000 psi (5 tons) and I could visibly see the cast iron flex! I measured a deflection of about .060" inside the C arm. Not having much experience with hydraulics, I have some trepidation about taking this to 10K PSI. Should I be worried? I was going to cover the thing with some heavy moving blankets and max it out to test it. All the components are rated to 10K PSI and are not the standard hydraulic parts.
Robert
 
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