New (Used) Enerpac Press (Help!- needs work)

You know that could actually work with the mill, although I would not trust the tram!
Yes I could turn the cylinder but I think a new cylinder is in order.
I had one other idea. I could use the original cylinder (or a new one) and add support at the top of the cylinder:
1586223361394.png

Notice the ears on the C frame with 1/2" holes. These are crying for all thread extended up to a plate over the cylinder.

Robert
 
Looks like that set screw was just pushed through the threads. That took a lot of force. 0.005 clearance is pretty sloppy thread ''engagement'' :)


If that were in my shop I would bore the threads out of the C frame, well oversize, then thread mill new threads, maybe 2 1/2-14 would be good. Then rethread the cylinder deeper to get the thread form back, size doesn't matter. Then build a threaded insert for the C frame that fits both the cylinder and the C frame.

As an alternate, bore the threads out of the C frame, and make an insert as above. But weld it in place.

I really think the only choice is to somehow get new threads in the C frame. And the best way to do that is with an insert.

I do see something odd, it looks like a crack running around the edge of the threaded bore in the C frame. Not sure what that is about, and odd place for a crack. Maybe that is a threaded insert in there. Might clean it up to see what is really there, it could be an adapter for a different size cylinder or something?

EDIT: The colors don't look right for Enerpac, I wonder what you have there. All of my HF stuff is orange. But they don't sell a C frame.

Some good advice above also.

What is the OD of that cylinder above the threads? About 2.200 maybe?
 
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I didn't see the "crack" until Jim mentioned it. I sure would like to know what that is about. Maybe the threads in the C-frame are in an "insert" from the OEM. Maybe that's a 20 ton frame with an adapter for a 10 ton cylinder.

What's the nomenclature on the C-frame (can't read it in the pic).
 
Thanks Jim- I think your idea is sound. I do not have the capacity to bore out the C frame but I could get it done. I do not see a crack around the C frame bore. (in real life.) I think it is intact and not sleeved.

I have another plan I want some feedback on:
What if I machined off the threads on the cylinder to create an unthreaded boss. Then make a thick "washer" that fits into the recess in the top of the C frame with the ID of the washer matching the new OD of the cylinder. I could then use threaded rod and a plate to clamp the cylinder in place. The tensile strength of (2) 1/2" threaded rods should be adequate? Not the most elegant solution but I can't see it failing.
Robert
 
You may want to have that thing magnafluxed or use some other crack detection method before putting too much into it. I'd hate to see what happens when one of those things lets go in a hurry....

John
 
Scraped some paint:

1586225275088.png

Appears to be solid. That recess is cryin for a sleeve or adapter. Keep in mind it's hydraulic. It the pneumatic stuff that you don't want to see fail!
R
 
BTW, I have an Enerpac thing here I got as scrap. It's just the fabricated frame with no cylinders, heavy bugger.
 
Is it the same as my C frame? Can you measure the ID of the threads?
Robert
 
rwm said:
Thanks Jim- I think your idea is sound. I do not have the capacity to bore out the C frame but I could get it done. I do not see a crack around the C frame bore. (in real life.) I think it is intact and not sleeved.

I have another plan I want some feedback on:
What if I machined off the threads on the cylinder to create an unthreaded boss. Then make a thick "washer" that fits into the recess in the top of the C frame with the ID of the washer matching the new OD of the cylinder. I could then use threaded rod and a plate to clamp the cylinder in place. The tensile strength of (2) 1/2" threaded rods should be adequate? Not the most elegant solution but I can't see it failing.
Robert
Click to expand...

Strange, in the picture it looks like a crack.

That might work, but I would use high tensile threaded rod. https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rods/threaded-rods-and-studs/high-strength-steel-threaded-rods-8/ But you might pull the ears off without a bottom backup plate, maybe about 3/4 or so thick.

What is the OD of the cylinder above the threads?
 
Agree on the 150K psi rod. I was wondering about the ears breaking... 3/4" plate would cut down on my vertical travel. Maybe 3/8 cause that's what I have!
About the color- I assumed that this was so old it was before Enerpac went yellow. Seems to be original paint and the C frame has the same features as the current model.
Robert
 
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