New shop space!

[Boswell]

Can you leave the compressor where it is and run an underground air line to a tank in the new shop? Having a buried line acts like a cooler and will help condensate moisture out of the air as an added bonus

of course you would need to be able to drain the water from line at a low spot. That will take some planning for an underground line I think.

 

[Firstram]

of course you would need to be able to drain the water from line at a low spot. That will take some planning for an underground line I think.

It will blow through to the far end where it can be separated out. As long as there aren't any crazy low spots or poor plumbing decisions, it works very well!

 

[7milesup]

@DavidR8 Everything @Eddyde that mentioned. One addition that I do have to his recommendations is to insulate between levels with rock wool. It is 1.) Fireproof, and 2.) Sound deadening.

Mineral Wool | Mineral Wool Insulaton | Fire Retardants Inc.

Mineral wool is known for its amazing fire rating. Mineral wool can resist temperatures above 1000°C making it an ideal choice for fire protection.

www.fireretardantsinc.com

 

[DavidR8]

@DavidR8 Everything @Eddyde that mentioned. One addition that I do have to his recommendations is to insulate between levels with rock wool. It is 1.) Fireproof, and 2.) Sound deadening.

Mineral Wool | Mineral Wool Insulaton | Fire Retardants Inc.

Mineral wool is known for its amazing fire rating. Mineral wool can resist temperatures above 1000°C making it an ideal choice for fire protection.

www.fireretardantsinc.com

Without any plans in place I'm kind of expecting that the ceiling/floor joists will be 12" deep so that will definitely be filled with Rockwool.

 

[DavidR8]

We just got back from meeting with the architect and the builder.
We potentially can build a 26'x36' shop! That would be over twice as big as the space I have now.
Excuse me while I dream a while!

 

[Dabbler]

Congrats!

From my experience, one effective thing to do is to drywall in one direction, and then drywall again in the other. Modern drywall has a weak direction and a strong direction. I use panel adhesive between layers. Twice as thick, if glued together is 4X as stiff. Stiffness helps filter out low and mid range frequencies. Vapour barrier on both sides of the joists will help fulfill some of @Eddyde great advice. Everything he said.
Pay attention to the wall/floor joint. That is a place sound can get through easily.

 

[DavidR8]

Congrats!

From my experience, one effective thing to do is to drywall in one direction, and then drywall again in the other. Modern drywall has a weak direction and a strong direction. I use panel adhesive between layers. Twice as thick, if glued together is 4X as stiff. Stiffness helps filter out low and mid range frequencies. Vapour barrier on both sides of the joists will help fulfill some of @Eddyde great advice. Everything he said.
Pay attention to the wall/floor joint. That is a place sound can get through easily.

Thanks John, that is not something that I read about before but it makes excellent sense.

 

[Boswell]

Of course instead of drywall you could panel with plywood or osb. My shop walls are all 3/4" plywood. Never have to look for a stud when I want to hang something. Actually the small shop with the lathe and mill are sheetrock. it's the large shop with the welding, grinding, painting ... that is plywood Regardless to how you finish out the space it sounds like it will be a great addition

 

[DavidR8]

I currently have 1/2” CD plywood on the walls. 3/4” is a good idea.

Our plan is to rough in for a full bathroom but only put in sink and toilet. That way if at some point someone wanted to convert the shop into another suite they could.
All shop electrical will be in conduit so it’s easier to modify or remove in the event the space is ever turned into another suite.

 

[Dabbler]

-- In floor heating?

Frame in the rough ins for windows in any event. Then don't actually install any... You can go real neo-retro and mark the putative locations of these windows on the inside, on your OSB...

slab depth expectations?