New 9a cross slide stuck

[ericc]

Wow, ouch! That looks like a setback, but if there are no extra pieces of cast iron around, it may have been broken before and "fixed" with loctite, or something. I would be tempted to force it back together with JB Weld and try to get a little engagement back on the screw threads, perhaps with some judicious filing. It just has to work long enough to thread a new collar. There are probably enough cast iron bits to hold the screw in, if not, a temporary aluminum plate can do the job.

 

[FriscoMustang]

I'm far, far, far, FAR from an expert on lathes, but my gut tells me the new/old saddle will have worn differently than the one that's been on your lathe, so the saddle and lathe ways will no longer "match". After decades of wear, they wore together. Kinda like putting used brake pads from one car on the used rotors of a second. But maybe not as severe.

You can always have the bedway and the saddle ground and scraped. Then they'll match.

Yeah, I‘m not planning on dropping that kind of money on this one. If I can’t get decent results with the “new” saddle, I’ll work on repairing the one with the chip out of it. Appreciate the input for sure, and I’ll definitely be taking some careful measurements. I’m guessing the machine will be more accurate than the operator for a while though.

 

[martik777]

Don't waste money on another saddle, it won't match the wear on your ways or cross slide. That damage will have no affect on your lathe's accuracy. I doubt I have oiled mine (under that screw) more than once every 2 years and I have no visible wear.
I made my own large dial and glued on 200 graduations for direct reading. If you want the same travel (towards the operator), you will also need to make a much longer extension and an extension or replacement for your existing bushing. The larger dial prevents the slide from moving the original distance. You can fix those threads on your lathe BTW.

I'm not sure you should attempt the large dial project until you get this lathe operational and become more familiar with machining basics

 

[FriscoMustang]

Wow, ouch! That looks like a setback, but if there are no extra pieces of cast iron around, it may have been broken before and "fixed" with loctite, or something. I would be tempted to force it back together with JB Weld and try to get a little engagement back on the screw threads, perhaps with some judicious filing. It just has to work long enough to thread a new collar. There are probably enough cast iron bits to hold the screw in, if not, a temporary aluminum plate can do the job.

Don't waste money on another saddle, it won't match the wear on your ways or cross slide. That damage will have no affect on your lathe's accuracy. I doubt I have oiled mine (under that screw) more than once every 2 years and I have no visible wear.
I made my own large dial and glued on 200 graduations for direct reading. If you want the same travel (towards the operator), you will also need to make a much longer extension and an extension or replacement for your existing bushing. The larger dial prevents the slide from moving the original distance. You can fix those threads on your lathe BTW.

I'm not sure you should attempt the large dial project until you get this lathe operational and become more familiar with machining basics

Didn’t know you made your own. That definitely seems beyond me. Just figured if I was threading the handle and extending anyway, should think about getting the larger dials at the same time. Good advice from everyone. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[FriscoMustang]

Well, at this point, I think I’m going to clean it up as much as possible and get it all reassembled and mounted. I’ll see if I can get the cross slide to mount and lock without the screw in it and use the compound to practice turning down a 1/4” or so for a 12-28 male thread and make a 12-28 female to fix my broken handle. Sometime next decade after I’ve accomplished that, I’ll get a replacement bushing and try to use the damaged cross slide as is. Any other thoughts? Thanks again for all the help.

 

[ericc]

That's something like what I'd do. I found a die for that thread in my collection. You could probably purchase a nut. The more difficult part would be repairing that cracked out area without goofing up the casting. Easy and slow.

When I was at this point, there was no problem with a setscrew, since it was missing. Just the hole, which I thought was an oil hole. The whole assembly came out easily.

 

[FriscoMustang]

That's something like what I'd do. I found a die for that thread in my collection. You could probably purchase a nut. The more difficult part would be repairing that cracked out area without goofing up the casting. Easy and slow.

When I was at this point, there was no problem with a setscrew, since it was missing. Just the hole, which I thought was an oil hole. The whole assembly came out easily.

You found a die for the bushing thread? At this point I think the bushing is toast unless I add some metal back. Assume brazing is the right approach for cracked part, then re drill and tap the oil hole. As you can see, easy and slow may not be my strengths!

 

[brino]

try to use the damaged cross slide as is. Any other thoughts?

To me that looks like a prime candidate for filling by brazing and then machining the top flat and then drill/tap the new holes.
Yes there would be a bronze coloured area there, but it should clean-up well.

-brino

 

[martik777]

Don't understand why your earlier photo of that bushing thread looks good but the latest one is much more damaged. Looks like there are still a couple good threads so you should be able to screw it back in with some filing. You can also repair threads by "picking up the existing thread" - Here's a how-to:
(209) SHOP TIPS #238 PICKING UP A THREAD on The Atlas/Craftsman 12" Lathe tubalcain - YouTube

Note that the original threads on the end of the shaft which connects the ball handle are 12-24 not 12-28 as you posted earlier.

 

[FriscoMustang]

Don't understand why your earlier photo of that bushing thread looks good but the latest one is much more damaged. Looks like there are still a couple good threads so you should be able to screw it back in with some filing. You can also repair threads by "picking up the existing thread" - Here's a how-to:
(209) SHOP TIPS #238 PICKING UP A THREAD on The Atlas/Craftsman 12" Lathe tubalcain - YouTube

Note that the original threads on the end of the shaft which connects the ball handle are 12-24 not 12-28 as you posted earlier.

Yeah, I think they galled in the hole. Turned out the thread in the cast was stronger than the thread on the bushing. Thanks for the correction.