New 9a cross slide stuck

martik777 said:
The gear will pull thru with the entire leadscrew, I just checked mine. Do you mean the leadscrew won't unscrew from the brass nut? It shouldn't be rusted in there. Try twisting it back and forth
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It’s feeding through the nut fine. Just feels like it’s hitting something. You’ve got a power feed cross slide I assume. I’ll check it again and see if i can see anything.
 
FriscoMustang said:
It’s feeding through the nut fine. Just feels like it’s hitting something. You’ve got a power feed cross slide I assume. I’ll check it again and see if i can see anything.
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Yes, mine is a 9A too, circa 1947 maybe they changed the dimensions but unlikely, What is your serial #?
 
Yikes! Not a big deal though, it will not affect anything, you can fill that with JBweld or Devcon later. That almost looks like it was broken before, did you find the pieces of cast iron that broke off?
 
martik777 said:
Yikes! Not a big deal though, it will not affect anything, you can fill that with JBweld or Devcon later. That almost looks like it was broken before, did you find the pieces of cast iron that broke off?
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No. And I agree, that looks old
 
martik777 said:
Yikes! Not a big deal though, it will not affect anything, you can fill that with JBweld or Devcon later. That almost looks like it was broken before, did you find the pieces of cast iron that broke off?
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So I found a replacement saddle and bushing on eBay for under $100. Will the ways be OK if I do that? Bushing threads are toast on the one I’ve got, both on the bushing and in the saddle. Where did you source the larger dial? Figure if I’m doing it I might as well go ahead and extend the handle and get a larger dial. Eyes aren’t getting any younger.
 
Damn shame is what this is!!
Best of luck to Ya!!

I did learn something from this though...
I had no idea there was supposed to be a screw in that oil hole.
I assume it; is to keep the swarf out of it?
 
FriscoMustang said:
Sorry, lost me on this one. What do you mean?
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I was suggested you needed to turn the FEED SCREW clockwise (not the bushing) to move the cross feed away from you. With the cross slide all the way forward, you won't be able to back out the bushing, since the busing is pinned to the cross feed screw - it has no where to go.

But I see that is now a moot point - since the saddle has been broken. Since you were unable to remove the oil screw, which IIRC, can make contact with the feed screw bushing.
 
My 1938 SB9C does not have threads in that hole, nor is OIL stamped on the saddle there.
If the screw is there to keep swarf out, SB wasn’t worried about it in 1938.
Frisco, the rabbit hole can be deep, but you will end up with a fine lathe that you know plenty about.
Do not ask how I know this.
 
FriscoMustang said:
So I found a replacement saddle and bushing on eBay for under $100. Will the ways be OK if I do that? Bushing threads are toast on the one I’ve got, both on the bushing and in the saddle. Where did you source the larger dial? Figure if I’m doing it I might as well go ahead and extend the handle and get a larger dial. Eyes aren’t getting any younger.
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I'm far, far, far, FAR from an expert on lathes, but my gut tells me the new/old saddle will have worn differently than the one that's been on your lathe, so the saddle and lathe ways will no longer "match". After decades of wear, they wore together. Kinda like putting used brake pads from one car on the used rotors of a second. But maybe not as severe.

You can always have the bedway and the saddle ground and scraped. Then they'll match.
 
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