New 9a cross slide stuck

FriscoMustang said:
Ordered the rebuild book. You said “unscrew the crossfeed nut”. What nut are you talking about? The one in the body (brass with a screw through the top) seems to be completely inaccessible. And I can’t get the crossfeed screw to move at all. Thanks.
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Yes, I'm talking about the one in the body. What do you mean by "completely inaccessible"? It's on the top, just beyond the compound mount. You can see it in your third photo.
 
You need a pin spanner wrench like this: Pin Spanner Wrench for 9" & 10" South Bend Lathe - NEW Tool !! | eBay
to remove the crossfeed bushing. You can easily fabricate one similar to this: (208) Homemade Spanner Wrench - YouTube

You do not need to replace the crossfeed leadscrew. It can easily be repaired by tapping the existing broken shaft and making a threaded extension with Loctite to repair/extend it. The end of the shaft will need a 12-24 thread for the spanner nut: South Bend 9 10k cross feed or compound spanner nut PT295NR1 | eBay

I have extended my 9A this way for larger dials and it works well even w/o loctite

Parts breakdown: 902D.pdf (wswells.com)

If you do not have another lathe, you can still make the parts with this one by locking the cross slide and using the compound for feeding in/out
 
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SLK001 said:
Yes, I'm talking about the one in the body. What do you mean by "completely inaccessible"? It's on the top, just beyond the compound mount. You can see it in your third photo.
Click to expand...
That’s what I thought. I can take the screw out but can’t see how that’s doing me much good? Sorry, these things feel a bit like a Chinese puzzle. I haven’t even gotten to the compound slide.
 
martik777 said:
You need a pin spanner wrench like this: Pin Spanner Wrench for 9" & 10" South Bend Lathe - NEW Tool !! | eBay
to remove the crossfeed bushing. You can easily fabricate one similar to this: (208) Homemade Spanner Wrench - YouTube

You do not need to replace the crossfeed leadscrew. It can easily be repaired by tapping the existing broken shaft and making a threaded extension with Loctite to repair/extend it. The end of the shaft will need a 12-24 thread for the spanner nut: South Bend 9 10k cross feed or compound spanner nut PT295NR1 | eBay

I have extended my 9A this way for larger dials and it works well even w/o loctite

Parts breakdown: 902D.pdf (wswells.com)

If you do not have another lathe, you can still make the parts with this one by locking the cross slide and using the compound for feeding in/out
Click to expand...
Interesting stuff. Thanks. I’d thought about welding the shaft back on but tapping it seems more likely to end up with a straight shaft. Any instructions or videos? Thanks.
 
It's pretty basic machining but may be a bit much for a newbie. Here's a photo of my stock shaft with the extension laying above the oil hole. My extension will be much longer than yours because I have a large dial assembly attached to it. I would turn down what's left of your shaft for a 12-28 or 10-32 thread for a length of about .250, then make the extension with a corresponding female thread and duplicate the features on the original. The thread on the end is 12-24. I can give you the exact dimensions if you are unable to measure yours.
 

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martik777 said:
It's pretty basic machining but may be a bit much for a newbie. Here's a photo of my stock shaft with the extension laying above the oil hole. My extension will be much longer than yours because I have a large dial assembly attached to it. I would turn down what's left of your shaft for a 12-28 or 10-32 thread for a length of about .250, then make the extension with a corresponding female thread and duplicate the features on the original. The thread on the end is 12-24. I can give you the exact dimensions if you are unable to measure yours.
Click to expand...
Does seem like a tough first project! But likely an interesting task. Thanks for the detail. First though I gotta get that bushing freed up or this is all just interesting conversation.
 
I could make the parts if you want to send me the leadscrew and bushing.

That hole in the bottom is between 3/16 and 11/64. A drill inserted into it may provide enough leverage to break it lose. otherwise you'll need to make or buy a pin wrench or the nuclear option of vise grips :)
 
martik777 said:
I could make the parts if you want to send me the leadscrew and bushing.

That hole in the bottom is between 3/16 and 11/64. A drill inserted into it may provide enough leverage to break it lose. otherwise you'll need to make or buy a pin wrench or the nuclear option of vise grips :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer! Nuclear option already deployed and the bushing is lose from the saddle with some damage. But the shaft is still seized inside the bushing. And you’re the second person to mention the hole in the bushing but mine is smooth with no hole for a spanner.
 
Great! I would drill a hole in the bottom for future removal. Try some heat and more solvent, a drill chuck may help to move the shaft while the bushing is held in a vise
 
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