My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)

[slow-poke]

Depending on your plans for the car, street only or trip to the drag strip with slicks, I would want an actual scatter shield between me and that rotating grenade. Then again I used to release the clutch at 7500-8000 RPM with my SBF ;-)

I have had good luck with both the old style long and newer style diaphragm. I prefer hydraulic actuation for the reliability, simplicity and less clutter to either the bell crank or cable, but you do loose some feel.

 

[pontiac428]

Depending on your plans for the car, street only or trip to the drag strip with slicks, I would want an actual scatter shield between me and that rotating grenade. Then again I used to release the clutch at 7500-8000 RPM with my SBF ;-)

I have had good luck with both the old style long and newer style diaphragm. I prefer hydraulic actuation for the reliability, simplicity and less clutter to either the bell crank or cable, but you do loose some feel.

Wow, I didn't expect this car to break into the nines to require a flexplate shield, or even the tens to require a trans blanket. Looks more like a hot street car to me with the LS truck motor, 10" tires, and quality trimmings all around. Are you sure he doesn't need a parachute to drive down to the A&W for a Saturday show and shine?

 

[GoceKU]

re you sure he doesn't need a parachute to drive down to the A&W for a Saturday show and shine?

When you've dealt with regulation and rules for long, especially in racing, people tend to think everything must be by the book. I've always tried to keep to the KISS theory and have had very little problems. Just get a good quality clutch and go have fun with it. I just spent 1/4 of my paycheck on a clutch kit for the scenic.

 

[slow-poke]

Well if you have ever seen the results of the internals coming threw the floor, and then considering this is where your feet, legs and brake lines are, the cost of a scatter shield is pretty inexpensive. The dowel kit to properly align are dirt cheap. My friend survived but had to quit racing after his experience.

I’m not down playing the “ Don’t leave the key in the lathe chuck”, but that’s pretty trivial compared to a flywheel-clutch/PP letting go at even stock LS RPM.

Agreed unlikely on a street car, but these cars often end up for a test at the drag strip and the tech inspector might let a stock bellhousing through. I have grenaded too many parts to rely on hope as a strategy when it comes to safety.

I seem to recall the rule is that a SFI flywheel and scatter shield are mandatory when running under 11.5s and that is really easy to do with even modest power in a fairly light weight 70 Nova.

I just looked up the specifications on the LS3 it’s actually more modest than I was thinking 430HP@5500RPM, so should be more of a easy on the power train 12s type car, stock parts should be okay.

 

[GoceKU]

I still have a scar on my right foot from a flywheel coming apart on a FWD car, but that is 1/1000 chance, every clutch job i do i inspect the flywheel for cracks and i often found, this picture is from my little Niva it had 4 cracks all the way thru. New style pressure plate have a much lower failure rate then the liver style like in your picture. Alloy with all new parts shouldn't worry.

 

[alloy]

Just got the trans back in (for the 3rd time) and the new clutch seems to feel pretty good, goes into gear easily. I put it in with my extended pilot bushing/bearing and apparently I didn't have as much length as I thought to use the extended setup. The input shaft bottomed on the bearing so had to pull the trans again. Put a standard pilot bearing in and I can get it into gear easily now. Clutch requires a noticeably more effort to push in, but not bad. I guess when you go from a 300hp clutch to one that's rated at 505hp there has to be more pressure. In hind site it's kind of a good thing I replaced it now. The engine is 403hp stock, then add the headers, free flowing intake, and a tune. So the clutch I had probably wouldn't have lasted too long.

I've not put the exhaust on yet, didn't want to put in in again and have to pull it off another time. I'll try and do that tomorrow and take it for a drive. I'm still waiting for my bench seat to be finished. They told me 3 weeks, it will be 6 weeks on Wednesday with no idea when it will be done

 

[alloy]

Just had a great test drive in the nova. Went about 4 miles and no problems. Got on it a little and runs pretty good. I would have went further but the front tires arent aligned with a tape measure and I don't want to waste my tires. I'm going to try and get an appointment for an alignment soon, then take it up and have the tail pipes modified and put on.

Seems to shift pretty well, no sign of the not going into gear problem with the new clutch. The new clutch grabs pretty quickly.

Now I need to find more things to work on

 

[Just for fun]

Thats good news Dan, I'm glad you got it figured out.

 

[Manual Mac]

Dan, do me a favor.
keep a close eye on those 7/16 lug studs I tacked those nuts on.
they look a wee bit light duty for your application to me.
And if you are in CR area stop by, I’d love to see the Nova in person.

 

[alloy]

Thanks Just for Fun.

I will keep an eye on the studs. At this point I'm watching everything.

I've searched almost daily for the reason the clutch wouldn't release and all I could find was something about it being an adjustable clutch. Not really sure what the adjustment does and neither does anyone else that I can find. I did run across one guy that pulled his clutch and rebuilt the engine and had a similar problem. He didn't say what he finally did to fix it.

The car drives like I remember my other old cars drove. Feels stiff, steering is heavy. I've not done a panic stop yet to test the brakes but I probably should before I take it on the freeway to get the front end done. But when I pulled it back in the shop I could easily feather the clutch to move it a little bit to line up with my lift. Nice clutch, not cheap but nice. But I would have paid much more to fix the problem.

Now I have to replace the right hand window regulator. Great fun, not. I looked at the hood gaps today and the gap at the back of the hood it great, about 1/8". Left side gap is 1/8" all the way. But on the right close to the front it's 3/8" plus which means the fender had to come in, but no way to do that. The core support won't let it. I guess that's what I get for buying fenders and core support that weren't genuine GM parts. I'm not sure how to fix this, best I can figure is the core support needs to be cut and shortened and re-welded. And there is the problem of the hood hinge on the right side not coming down all the way. I can push it down into place, but have to do that every time.

Now I'm trying to make a decision what to work on next, my camaro or my 55. The camaro just needs an engine change (and I have a new engine) and a tune on the computer for the bigger engine. The 55 needs everything from the ground up. 55 is a multi year project, but I'd trade the nova and the camaro for a good 55 any day. I guess if I was smart (I'm obviously not) I'd get rid of all this old iron and just put my money in the bank as I make it.

But I've never been accused of being smart.

Dan, do me a favor.
keep a close eye on those 7/16 lug studs I tacked those nuts on.
they look a wee bit light duty for your application to me.
And if you are in CR area stop by, I’d love to see the Nova in person.

I will definitely make it a point of stopping by.