My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)

Charging system shows 14 volts on the autometer gauge in the dash, but haven't taken a multi meter to it yet. Battery was on the charger all night and I started in twice today, then drove it there, they started it twice and then it was dead. Could be battery or something else. But I'm done for today.

Tomorrow is another day.
 
Also check the "Ignition-off draw" or IOD in some manuals.
It's really just measuring the current draw from the battery without the key in or vehicle running.
Some things require low currents all the time (clock or station memory in the radio, etc.), but too much constant back-ground load can drain the battery.

I believe the steps are:
1) remove key, close doors, trunk, etc. that may turn on courtesy lamps
2) disconnect one battery connection
3) insert current meter between battery and terminal (respecting polarity!)
4) monitor current; wait several minutes to get true long-term value.
(but please check a more reliable resource!)

Start with the meter on a high scale like 10-20Amps, but then as you confirm it is a low value, move down scales to get a more accurate reading.
If you break and then make the connection to change meter ranges, the current might start high again and reset the several minute wait window.
Since your current meter will likely end up on a 50-100 mA scale, be sure not to open a door or turn on the key that would draw way more current, and perhaps damage the meter, or blow an internal fuse.

Beware if you have any new-fangled fancy stuff the current might be higher than expected for several minutes.
I believe it was the Body-Control Module (BCM) on some Chrysler product I was debugging that had some seat-belt tensioner or re-winder that drew hundreds of milliamps for more than 10 minutes. Which was even longer than the service manual said.

With parts and systems from many different vehicles it might be difficult to predict your target value.....
I just checked an old manual I have (vehicle is long gone!) but a 1988 Jeep should have less than 20mA max, 10mA typical.

If you find a higher current load, removing fuses can help narrow down what circuit is the offender.

Brian
 
Been busy and haven't had much chance of getting back to the car. I did check yesterday and the battery was at 12.56 volts after sitting 5 days. I think I will replace the battery. It was in my trailblazer for 2 years, then sat for about 3 years when I started to put the car together.

I've been looking over the front end alignment printout and the caster is low. It won't return after a turn. I called the shop and they said they couldn't put any more caster in because the a-arm would hit my header. I looked and sure enough. Just another problem the hooker headers have caused. Nice headers, but the design could be better. Plenty of room to move the pipes in towards the engine 1/2"

The upper a-arms I have use inserts and the hole is offset to one side. Naturally I put the offset the wrong way towards the front which was bad for setting the caster.

So I'm going to make another full set of inserts with a 1/4" offset. Currently they ones in there are .130 offset. The alignment guy said he's be happy for me to bring it back. He enjoyed test driving it. I'm not sure if I should be happy about him saying that, or worried :rolleyes:

This next Thursday I'm going up to have the tail pipes fitted up. Hopefully that goes well.

front end.JPG
 
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It sounds like you've found a good alignment shop.
Let him stab it, just a little. :grin:
 
extropic said:
It sounds like you've found a good alignment shop.
Let him stab it, just a little. :grin:
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I think so. I've talked to him 3 times about this. This morning I called and talked to him and got an appointment for tomorrow morning. I told him I have different specs for it and he said that's good.

Unfortunately tomorrow or Thursday when I get the exhaust done my wife can't follow me up. The last trip did build my trust in the car, but there are just so many different parts from so many different years and sources put together it's mind boggling that any of it works at all.
 
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Made it to the line up shop. Woke up all my neighbors at 7:30:)

Unfortunately moving the arm back put it even closer to the header and he couldn't do anything to adjust it.

So only option left is a set of $600 adjustable control arms. If I was a skilled fabricator I could modify the tubular control arms I have to be adjustable, but I don't have good enough welding skills for that.

So for now leave it as it is.

One the bright side another almost 100 mile trip with no problems. In two days I'm back up in Centralia again for the exhaust.
 
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Yeah, neighbours love car guys, especially ones like me that do fabrication in the middle of the night (after work), start cars with open header after midnight, running my russian lathe that sounds like a train ( straight cut gears). But when they are in need I'm always there to help, couple of instances like that they stop complaining. Females are sometimes funny with their reactions, the act of kindness is rare this days, and surprise them.
 
GoceKU said:
Yeah, neighbours love car guys, especially ones like me that do fabrication in the middle of the night (after work), start cars with open header after midnight, running my russian lathe that sounds like a train ( straight cut gears). But when they are in need I'm always there to help, couple of instances like that they stop complaining. Females are sometimes funny with their reactions, the act of kindness is rare this days, and surprise them.
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You forgot to mention your air compressor:grin: My compressor and my stereo gets complaints also when I turn it up to hear it over my machines. Doesn't help I can't hear crap anyway. Did I mention vacuum system on my bead blaster is VERY loud also? Everything I have is loud.

And the things they call mufflers on my pypes exhaust system are a joke, but I haven't started it up at midnight....................yet. They are as loud as my open headers, just the sound comes from further back on the car. I'm thinking about some magnaflow replacements. I have a 3" single on my trailblazer SS with the LS2 in it and I like how it sounds. Problem is they are $100 each.
 
I haven't mention them because i don't have them, or i don't use them. My air compressor is a joke, small cheap unit with a 24l tank, i've been preparing to build me a bigger one with pipe work thru my garages but never found the time to do it. I don't play music when i'm working i like my quiet, keeps me more focused. A good set of stainless mufflers are worthy investment, as every time you use the vehicle you can hear them. Some time back i got paid to help unload and move a alfa romeo 155 V6 Ti race car, the transporter going thru my country had wrecked. And the car had spent 3 days on its side only hold down by the straps, no body damaged at all after the tow company flip up the transporter. My job was to change the oil because it has leaked out check everything, fired it up and move it to a safe location (Greece) . While listening to that engine rew and having to drive it almost 2hours was heaven for the first 1/2 hour and hell for the rest, not because what i was driving was totally legal because i was afraid to stop and having to deal with the police, that thing had short gearing and rev past 10000 rpm. The sound was deafening, halfway i got the idea and tore up a tall bill and stuffed it in my ears. If you like the sound change them.
 
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