Help On How To Set Up And Make This Item.

How far along are you on this part? Do you have the block roughed out? Or is everything still "in the round"?
 
kd4gij said:
You could make that part on a mill. You would use an angle plate or a cnc type vise mounted on it's side. You would turn the shafts with boring head. That is the same concept as a rotary transfer machine.
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kd4,
First thoughts on that is, I'm liking that idea very much.

Ken
 
Ken_Shea said:
...Randy, While I have a substantial amount of machining behind me I have never done any deliberate taper turning but isn't that what you will get with offsetting the tail stock, unless it was offset vertically, just thinking out loud here....Ken
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Yes, you're right and that's what I said a few posts back when I apologized for my first suggestion.

John Hasler said:
I don't see how it can work with the tailstock offset. I think that just gives you a taper. I think you have to offest the headstock end...
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I agree.

epanzella said:
...The rectangular part of the piece is held INSIDE the round fixture and the round fixture is supported by the steady. If the area to be machined is 3 inches long you leave that much sticking of the fixture so it can be machined....
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Yep, I inferred that when you confirmed that the pipe WAS the cat-head. Very clever idea by the way !
 
No matter how you hold the part, you need trig to figure out the offset to get the 2 degrees. I just suggest to keep the fixture simple. Offsetting one end by using a 4 jaw to me would be the simplest. But there are always more than one way to process a part. With CAD you don't really need trig. Just lay it out on the screen and measure the result.
 
Ken, here's a rough sketch of what I was trying to explain last night. Forgive the table cad.
Think this would work. You'd need to machine a block to locate and offset the one end to get your angles. Ream or bore a hole that you can latter use to centre the fixture in the four jaw, step over 0.8371 inches, drill and thread a second hole for the dead centre. The centre could be a bolt turned to a point. The spacing as you know is critical, for the part 12 inches long the offset would be 0.8371 inches. The slotted angle iron would be brought up and squared against the centre section and clamped to act as a lathe dog. Once set on the first turning leave it fixed and it will index the second one in plane with the first.
The tail stock has to be centred or you will get a tapered profile.
Hope this helps explain last nights ramblings.
IMG_1634.jpg

Greg
 
That looks like a winning idea Greg. The fixture is quick and easy to make as well. Nice drawing!
 
Nice presentation. Challenging really makes one think. If the shoulder on the middle block is square to the spindle part? I think I would make a "collet" that could be held in a four jaw chuck that had the 2 deg slant in it and would hold the spindle square with the lathe. Machine the spindle, then flip it over and do the other side.

Tim
 
Heres a thought try a fixture lke this with a four jaw chuck to hold the part. This backplate allows for axial adjustment I would guess it would move 2* but you would need to verify that. The four jaw would allow the dial in for offset.

TBAS1.JPG
 
f350ca said:
Ken, here's a rough sketch of what I was trying to explain last night
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Thank you Greg,
Understood now.
My preference would be to do this on the lathe and now have at least two options (one mill and one lathe) that are clear on how to accomplish this and a few of the others are starting to sink in as well :)

Ken
 
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