Got me a Heavy 10

[tk1971]

Move your belt to a middle range.

The high speed is too fast and reduces the torque.

It has a small contact area and is quicker to slip.

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I was running with the belt on the middle cone. I tried spindle speeds of 600 and 800 RPM.

I was also using the Longitudinal feed with gearbox at 0.0018”, 0.0016” & 0.0015” (Feed in Thousandths), as well as manual feeding.

I ordered a test bar so I’ll be aligning the tailstock when it arrives.

Thanks.

 

[SLK001]

That's

I was also using the Longitudinal feed with gearbox at 0.0018”, 0.0016” & 0.0015” (Feed in Thousandths)

That's actually feed in inches.

For a test bar, you could also use a piece of ground tool steel ~3/4" diameter. It comes in 36" length pieces, so cut it in half, face the cut and center drill both ends. That gives you a test bar and 18" of excellent steel.

 

[tk1971]

Leveled lathe yesterday and attempted to align the the tailstock. Had to add 0.013” of shims to the tailstock which already had 0.025” of shims.

I’ll turn something tomorrow to see how successful my alignment was. Once that’s done, I can start turning some tool holders for my Rusnok 70 mill which accepts a maximum 1/2” straight shank arbor. I plan to turn 3/4” & MT3 tool holders down to 1/2”, then i can play with gear cutters.

 

[tk1971]

Success… I went back to turn that stainless material that ended up with a taper before tailstock alignment. I got the same measurement near the chuck and tailstock.







I think i need a 4 independent jaw chuck for turning down my mill tools as I’ll want to them concentric in the chuck before I start turning.

 

[tk1971]

Made my first part. That rod I’ve been practicing on was used to make a hinge pin for the motor access door that was missing on my lathe (called a rivet in the SB Parts List).

I freehanded the curvature for the head with a turning tool.

For this exercise, I faced, turned and parted. It was fun.

I used a HSS parting tool and I still suck at it. I got down halfway to open up a face to turn a radius on the rivet head.

At the end, I cut it off with a metal disc cutter instead of finishing off the parting on the lathe.

 

[Ben17484]

Made my first part. That rod I’ve been practicing on was used to make a hinge pin for the motor access door that was missing on my lathe (called a rivet in the SB Parts List).

I freehanded the curvature for the head with a turning tool.

For this exercise, I faced, turned and parted. It was fun.

I used a HSS parting tool and I still suck at it. I got down halfway to open up a face to turn a radius on the rivet head.

At the end, I cut it off with a metal disc cutter instead of finishing off the parting on the lathe.

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Very nice! That came out really well

How was the freehanding? It’s not something I’ve been brave enough to try yet.


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[tk1971]

Very nice! That came out really well

How was the freehanding? It’s not something I’ve been brave enough to try yet.


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It was easier for me than parting…. Did i mention that I suck at parting?

 

[tk1971]

Added an E-Stop before I learn how to turn threads.

It is wired to the 24v input to the font control panel. Yanking the voltage stops everything.

 

[SLK001]

Added an E-Stop before I learn how to turn threads.

It is wired to the 24v input to the font control panel. Yanking the voltage stops everything.

If you're using carbide threading tools, stopping like this will often lead to fracturing the bit. It's better to learn how to quickly withdraw the tool from the work using the cross-slide. If you're threading to a shoulder, then cranking out the tool while simultaneously stopping the feed is a skill you need to learn.

 

[Ben17484]

How are you finding the heavy 10? There’s one for sale at what seems to be a reasonable price that I’m tempted by.


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