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I just watched your video and I believe that is the path you want to follow. In fact, there is a chance that you 'might' be able to pull the apron towards you without taking the lead screw bearing block off. I have no idea if there is any flex to those shafts.
 
Ok, so I just spent some time looking at mine. I learned two things. 1.) My apron has an adjustment "gib" towards the tailstock end that I didn't even know was there. Mine needs adjustment. 2.) I was looking for my nice zero flute countersink. I found it in the chuck of my tailstock.

But, as @Dabbler just mentioned, I think that you may have to remove the bearing block for the 3 rods on the tailstock end. Take a look at page 33 of the PM manual. There is one bolt and one pin holding it on.
I would remove the gibs on the splash shield side of the saddle. Then, that bearing block on the tailstock end while supporting the apron (run the apron down towards the tailstock). Take the two SHCS out of the saddle that attaches it to the apron. Now, you should have enough flex in the 3 rods to move the saddle and apron toward you. measured 12mm for required movement before the gibs you cannot reach will clear the bed. Now you should be able to lift the saddle off the apron. Take your time because the pins holding those two castings together are going to be snug.
Wish I was closer or I would drive down there and give you a hand.
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
I will work on this tomorrow or possibly Monday after work. Have my youngest son and his wife coming over with the new grand puppy. Good times.

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I just watched your video and I believe that is the path you want to follow. In fact, there is a chance that you 'might' be able to pull the apron towards you without taking the lead screw bearing block off. I have no idea if there is any flex to those shafts.
No, they’re pretty snug. I’m assuming the bearing block is the one at the right side that the 3 rods go into? (My manual is in the garage)
 
One word of caution: make sure all 3 rods are properly supported when you disassemble the bearing block.. On of the guys in my town (Peter are you there?) ended yp with a bent lead screw - only bent 20 or 30 thousandths. Really hurt the ability to use the lathe. He had to send the lead screw to the youtuber that straightens boat shafts to fix it.
 
One word of caution: make sure all 3 rods are properly supported when you disassemble the bearing block.. On of the guys in my town (Peter are you there?) ended yp with a bent lead screw - only bent 20 or 30 thousandths. Really hurt the ability to use the lathe. He had to send the lead screw to the youtuber that straightens boat shafts to fix it.
I will definitely do so, thank you @Dabbler
 
For what it's worth, I believe yours is a later model of what was sold by Grizzly in the 90's as the G1031 lathe. Possibly there are junkers or parts available that would interchange. Grizzly has next to nothing in parts anymore, but perhaps used machine dealers or ebay?
 

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Could you possibly remove the lead screw and control rods completely. Or maybe just removing the bearing block, you could slide the whole assembly off the end?
 
Could you possibly remove the lead screw and control rods completely. Or maybe just removing the bearing block, you could slide the whole assembly off the end?
Hoping just the latter
 
Could you possibly remove the lead screw and control rods completely. Or maybe just removing the bearing block, you could slide the whole assembly off the end?
All he needs is 12mm of movement. I believe just loosening up the bearing block might be enough to get the saddle off.
 
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