Clausing 5418 Lathe

OK - time for some home shop creativity :). I'm installing the new half nuts. The old set had two .005" shims under the removeable V gib. When I installed te new set with the shims the half nuts were very loose in the V ways - loose enough that they were closing with their own weight. So I took the shims out and re-installed - the half nuts were still loose in the V ways. I can't move the gib any further in because the bolt hole is restricting it. Comparing the old to new - the new are .035" narrower at the widest part of the V wa so the gib isn't fully tightening down on the half nut V. I had some .003" shi stock and tried 3 pieces of that between the half nut and gib V way - that seemed to work except it didn't take long for the sliding motion of the half nuts to destroy the aluminum foil shim stock. I also had some .025" shim stock - that seemed to be more stable but when I tightened the gib down it lcked up the half nuts - even with the .010" shims under the gib.

So it seems that I have two options -find something that can function as a .010" shim and put it between the half nut and gib V or enlarge the hole in the gib to allow t to move in a little further - I'm thinking the hole would need to be 1/64 larger to get the required movement. Of course the third option is to call clausing to see if the half nuts are to spec - but I'm thinking that is going to have a good ending.

I don't like enlarging the hole - once that is done there is no going back. I also don't like a shim in the V way - I worry about the sliding motion of the half nuts. So what are your thoughts about the approach I should take? Any suggestions on what I may have laying around the house that would function as a .010" shim. I would prefer a one piece steel shim but am open to ideas versus purchasing a $60 roll for a 1/4 X 3" piece.

Thsanks
Rick
 
Buy a cheap set of feeler gages at the auto parts store.


What a great idea - I always miss the obvious :). I actually have 2 sets of feeler gauges so I could sacrifice one of the .010" as least for a test. The feeler guage is going to be too wide but I think I can trim it down.

Rick
 
I tried a .010" feeler gauge - still loose. Then I tried a 014" - still loose. Then I realized I still had shims under the gib - duh!!. Took those out and the .014" worked great. Maybe a little tight but after some lubrication and use I suspect it will be just fine. I was able to use the feeler gauge as is in terms of width except I did need to grind a radius at the center with a dremel to provide some clearance for the lead screw comng through.

Thanks
Rick
 
It's been awhile so I thought I'd give an update. I've been distracted lately with 2 or 3 other projects but I have founbd some time here and there to devote to the Clausing. I received the half nuts from Clausing - there were a little smaller in terms of overall width so I had to shim the V on one side but now they are working good. They are clearly a better fit around the lead screw than the old set - no play at all. The last piece of the apron puzzle was the oil fill window - I received one of those from a member here and got it installed with some sealant - we'll see if I need to redo that when I fill with oil. At this point the apron is complete.
Imported Photos 00000.JPG

Imported Photos 00005.JPG

Complete - Front.JPG

Complete -Rear.JPG

I also found a spot for the lathe to call home so I was able to to get the cabinet in place and assembled. I rough leveled it with pads that Charlie provided which I milled square and drilled a divot for the leveling screw (3/4-16 hex head bolt through the cabinet feet). Then I insltalled the chip tray and bed and level the bed using the built in leveling screws provided by Clausing. That was quite a task - it doesn't take much to change a Starrett machinists level :). I may have to redo that after complete assembly.

Cabinet_Bed_TS Front.JPG

Cabinet_Bed_TS Rear.JPG

So I think that gets me current. I am working oin cleaning up the gear box internals - casting has been painted. Hopefully I'll have more time for this in the upcoming week.
Rick
 
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Looking nice! One comment - you should recheck the bed leveling after about a month and then after that, annually. Some parts of the country are better about this than others but concrete slabs do tend to move over time.
 
Looking nice! One comment - you should recheck the bed leveling after about a month and then after that, annually. Some parts of the country are better about this than others but concrete slabs do tend to move over time.

Good idea Robert - I'll do that

Rick
 
Hi Rick,

Very nice job. I can shoot a picture of my back gear decals (In / Out) and clean them up in Photoshop. It'd be a *.jpg file that you could either print on paper, laminate and glue in place or maybe try some inkjet decal paper.

Bruce
 
Hi Rick,

Very nice job. I can shoot a picture of my back gear decals (In / Out) and clean them up in Photoshop. It'd be a *.jpg file that you could either print on paper, laminate and glue in place or maybe try some inkjet decal paper.

Bruce

Bruce - that would be great - with that I can use water slide decals.

Thanks
Rick
 
Hi Rick,

Decal files are attached. Hope they work for you. The OD is 0.8" to the edge just outside of the red center portion.

Best regards, Bruce

back gear in.jpg back gear out.jpg
 
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