Clausing 4914

Well I'm stuck again. I can't figure out how to press out the front bearing cover so I can remove the front headstock bearing. I've attached markup of the headstock schematic to explain the problem. The diameter (A) of the headstock through hole and the inside diameter of the bearing, washer and cover are all the same. So I simply don't have anything to press out against.

I had cut a small piece of steel flat bar that I could just barely get under the washer so that it spanned across the hole and pushed out against the washer. I then inserted a socket that was almost the same diameter A so that I was bearing as close to the edge of the washer as possible. However the cover is so tight that it just bent the flat bar right out of the hole. If the bar was any larger to resist bending I wouldn't be able to slide it between the washer and the bearing. I even tried another bar that pressed directly against the bearing cover but because there was less clearance to get it in place, it bent out of the whole even faster.

I'm stuck. :think1:

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Aside from that I have a few more questions. What is the taper of the headstock spindle? I know there is supposed to be this reducer sleeve to take it down to a #2 MT but the manual doesn't say what the outside taper is. Is it a #3 or a #4 MT? I'd imagine since I'm missing that I could just get a dead center that goes right into the taper and not bother with the reducer.

Also, there is a "pan moulding" between the head pedestal foot and the chip pan. It's just a rubber gasket. Mine is shot to hell. Did either of you guys have to replace this? I found some adhesive backed 2" wide rubber strips in various thicknesses from Mcmaster Carr that I think I can fold in half over the chip pan edge to emulate that gasket. Do you think that would work?

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I don't get it. Why can't you just push out the bearing, washer and cover all at the same time?
 
hmm... I wonder how such a part can be pulled out indeed. I have no experience with this sort of thing :thinking:

As for the internal spindle taper - it's a MT4. so if you can get a MT4 center you can forgo the adapter. although long term the adapter will make it easier to use more common tooling (not that I've ever needed anything other than a deadcenter myself as of yet as long as you have a collet chuck which covers everything else mostly)

the rubber is just to prevent oil/coolant from going in between and into the cabinet/floor. you could use any rubber gasket as long as it seals the area. if you don't use coolant you have even less to worry about in terms of catastrophy happening ;)
 
AR1911 said:
I don't get it. Why can't you just push out the bearing, washer and cover all at the same time?
Click to expand...

Because there is nothing to push against. The bearing washer and cover reside in a cup shaped recess in the front of the headstock casting. I have to press from the rear of the headstock through the rear bearing hole to push out. However the inside diameter of the hole through that cup shaped recess (A in my diagram) is the same diameter of the things I'm trying to push out. So there is no way I can insert something that will bear against the bearing, washer or cover in the direction I need to press.

I think Sharon has hinted at what might need to be done when he said "pulled out". It will probably have to be pulled out instead of pushed. I was trying to figure out how to rig one of my 3 jaw gear pullers to pull it out. However the space behind the bearing cover is not big enough to accept the jaw. I might have to fabricate some new jaws that can get in there and then rig the puller to press against the headstock casting instead of where it would usually try to press against a shaft in the center.
 
I guess I'm a bit slow.
Looks to me like you could put a thick washer inside the headstock against the bearing. It might bear only against the inner race, but that may be good enough.
Then a big socket or short length of pipe outside the headstock, bigger than the OD of the parts coming out.
All-thread or bolt through a thick washer on the front of the headstock, through the whole works, nut inside the headstock.
Tighten to pull the bearing, internal washer, and cover out all at the same time.

I doubt this is a very tight press fit. I'd bet it's more like a "tap in" fit.
What am I missing?
 
Success!

I went back to my first idea of using a small piece of flat bar to press against. Only this time I used another small piece perpendicular to the first piece and just wedged it in there. On my first attempt... no go. They both bent out again. So I flattened them out, again. The last time though I put a bit of heat on the casting around the bearing cover with a propane torch. Then I set it up in the press. I also pumped the jack extremely fast hoping that the shock of doing it so quickly would give it a bit of extra oomph. I can't tell you if it was the heat or the speed at which I pumped but it finally broke free and came out.

Again the washer on this side got mangled as well but I was able to press it flat again.

Now everything I need to disassemble is done. The chip pan is the only thing that I need to strip and clean up. I'll have to order the replacement feed gear from Clausing soon and I'll finally be able to start putting everything back together again.

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IMG_4748.jpg IMG_4751.jpg IMG_4754.jpg
 
that is awesome! glad you got it out. should all be downhill from here on. congrats!:phew:
 
Just a quick update. I've ordered the new feed gear and cross slide screw from Clausing. Should be here next week. When I get back from the beach this weekend I shouldn't have any major obstacles anymore to go full bore on the painting and re-assembly.

Then it's just a matter of tooling up. Even more reasons for my wallet to give me dirty looks. :lmao:
 
If/when I need new bearing I am hiring you! Nice job and thanks for the pics!
 
So a thought just popped into my head. I still have the spindle out and need to get another coat of paint on the headstock casting before I start re-assembling everything. Does it make sense to pick up some new headstock bearings and replace them while I have this thing apart? They really aren't that expensive and I don't plan on ever having to take this headstock apart again. I don't think the original bearings had any issues with them, but if I can replace them with brand new ones, why not?

What do you think?
 
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