The same thought occurred to me. I also could have turned out taper pins and who knows, maybe even a bunch of taper bits if I knew how to do those spirals and hardening. Heck, if I had a mill attachment I could even have turned out another shaft (a channel for the wick would need to be milled)! In fact, it would probably be a good idea once lathe is set up to replicate every part for spares.
This whole thing has been on my mind, making it hard to sleep. I'm thinking that making a new taper hole there might collapse the thin wall between the parallel holes in the shaft and collar and for now, it might be wise to tap that area for a thin, bolt. Driving out another taper pin with a sledgehammer or even a 5 lb deadblow might be the death knell of that shaft. My main concern is that should the pin or anything fall out during operation, it would drop down into the central shaft gearstring and destroy them all.
Wish you knew how miserable life has become all b/c of 1 silly taper pin. I think the reason for the drill not going straight was my lack of experience and the shaft turning during the drilling process. Oh, did I mention that once I finished drilling and drove the shaft out, there were huge scratchmarks on the shaft and bronze bearings caused by the jagged hole? Am I the only one who makes mistakes? When I see other people's posts about restoration jobs, before and after photos, everything looks like it was done so perfectly.
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Question:
My gearbox contains just one oiling hole unlike the book, which shows one on each side. I circled the lone oiling hole in blue. I sort of traced the channel and it goes all the way to the other side and then down into separate channels to all the bosses which contain the shaft holes. Sorry I didn't take a photo of that area. My plan is to drill out a pressed in plug on the other side (off to the right) and replace it with a small set screw wrapped in teflon tape (as recommended by the book). The book said the reason for doing this is to more easily clean out the passageways (better access for pipe cleaners and flushing with kerosene.
Here's my question: once I've done all of that, are the wicks supposed to extend the entire length of the passageway or only at the entry points. It was a bit hard deciphering that from the book photos.
Thanks again
Dave
So much for old age. I don't like open oil holes, seems they attract every bit of swarf that comes by. BTW, I also didn't put oilers in the tumbler gear shafts. I think the wicks should extend the full length of the shafts.
