12" machinist level

My new setup is verified level by the bullseye , and the digital level. the digital is 0.0, and when flipped it flashes 0.0 to 0.1 and settles there.
I am contemplating my mental competence for this operation.
First attempt
If I set the level down, and look for it to find it's self a level alignment rotating 360 it is marked on the glass plate, and flipped. It buries the bubble to my right of center.
Next,
I set the bubble level, mark the glass plate, and flip, it buries to the right
3rd
I start the bubble all the way to the right. I bring the bubble all the way past center to the left side one division at a time, and when I flip it it returns full right. I did not go to full left past the divisions.
Start, and always returned here

The farthest I went left one division at a time from the start.
 
Mike, are you using physical alignment aids on the side and end? Can you back up your camera and show use a wider view so we can see what your set up is? None of this is hard but we have to set up correctly. Back up and show us the whole table first.
 
I went back out the glass has moved for this picture, it was square during the trials. I marked the glass for repeating the flip



 
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Aukai said:
My new setup is verified level by the bullseye , and the digital level. the digital is 0.0, and when flipped it flashes 0.0 to 0.1 and settles there.
I am contemplating my mental competence for this operation.
First attempt
If I set the level down, and look for it to find it's self a level alignment rotating 360 it is marked on the glass plate, and flipped. It buries the bubble to my right of center.
Next,
I set the bubble level, mark the glass plate, and flip, it buries to the right
3rd
I start the bubble all the way to the right. I bring the bubble all the way past center to the left side one division at a time, and when I flip it it returns full right. I did not go to full left past the divisions.
Start, and always returned here

The farthest I went left one division at a time from the start.
Click to expand...
It sounds like your level surface is not very level. Precision levels are not linear when you have themwaty out of level so although you making changes it doesen't show up in that orientation. When you flip the level and adjust, you are seeing a change. You need to keep going.

You can a level position on your surface by rotating the level and observing the bubble. You are seeing a difference when you flip the level. What you should see at some point is the left side bubble creeping more off center but at some orientation the right side bubble will start to move towards the center. Ideally, you would want the deflection to be equal but if the level is far out of calibration, that may be difficult to notice. Nevertheless, this would be a good place to sart the calibration process. You should see both sides start to come toward the center. The level is calibrated when the offset is equal and on the same side of center. The surface is then level when the bubble is centered.

Niether the bullseye level nor the digital level are sensitive enough to insure that you are in the ballpark with your"level" surface with your precision level. I have both. I would prefer a good mason's level and I would examine the bubble very carefully, flipping the level and looking for exactly the same position for the bubble.
 
Aukai said:
Carpenter's level, and rotated



Click to expand...
All three levels are indicating high to the right. It's subtle with the carpenter's level but the bubble is not center in either photo. You need to raise the left side of the surface.
 
My suggestion at this point would be to place two physical stops, one for the end and one for the side. The side should be long enough to register solidly. These stops can be separate pieces or a one-piece square, like a small rafter square. The goal is to be able to flip your level and have it end up in exactly the same place. These levels are extremely sensitive so when I say exactly the same place, I mean exactly the same place.

What we are trying to do is to determine if the level is off or the table is off. If the table is off then when you flip the level 180 degrees the bubble will move off in the same direction; then you adjust the table. If the table is okay but the level is off then the bubble will move in the opposite direction when you flip it. Then you adjust the level. So, you must determine which component is off - the table or the level, and to do that you have to have a physical stop for your level and you must have adjustable feet on the table. The bullseye level is just to get you sort of close to start.
 
Ok, but should the bubble be acting like described, if it is off by only that much. There is no middle ground. Not even close to finding a center on any flip. Be back soon...
 
At this point, how much off the bubble is is not important. Which direction the bubble moves when you flip it is.
 
If I understand the process, you don't NEED a flat surface, as long as you can get the opposite direction setting the same? I can see how it would be "easier" to have a flat surface, but with a machinist level...I found there is nothing level in my house! If Aukai gets his, I will have a new sense of motivation! Take your time brother...I'm in NO rush.
 
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