Working on my DIY Tool Post Grinder-Ugh

I'm going to find an adjustable speed router. Remove the hardware and mount the motor to an aluminum base of some sort to be determined
Should be ok.
:eek:Should I post some ? I've got more than a couple from my Uncle's place and I already have my own . I'm CHEAP and they have to move on to a good or not so good home . :big grin:
 
Identifying problems that got me in trouble.
.005" TIR just won't work.
This was a gift, it came with new bearings that I installed. Must be Chinesium bearings.
Edit----Or Russian :)-crap
Maybe I'll try to fix it some day. Meanwhile I have two others that work fine.
did you try tighening the end cap on the live center, it draws the preload up, and may help to center it better.
 
I should just spend $500 on a good used Ebay -Dumore.
But what's the fun in that?
I got the time, this should cost less than $200 in parts and 2,000 hours in labor :)
You started it, finish it.
You will learn more doing this job, than you will by buying it.
We all make mistakes. How we fix them or recover from it is what makes you a craftsman. Turning and quitting makes you a loser.
Buck it up and try again. Stop when you are close, let it cool.
Take a fresh measurement, check it, check it again.

You got this Jeff.
 
Ok, the good, the bad and the Ugly :)

I have a workaround spindle and the I screwed up.
The ends will be 1/2” 20. I mounted the spindle between centers and noticed some runout after I removed some material, wtf?
There was a piece of smooge at the live center mounting hole. This caused me to cut the shaft to .400, I made a sleeve out of drill rod.
I was planning on soldering it. Wait a tick. If I solder it, I won’t be able to cut the threads!!
I used Locktite 603 retaining compound. Waiting a couple days to cure…… then I’ll cut the threads.
Who said you can’t get a good finish with 1018?. Look at that cylinder! 625 rpm with a sharp hss bit at .0015 feed. Had lunch, came back it was almost finished:) :).

I will make the end caps with o-ring grooves to seal the shielded bearings. That will be fun!!

Edit, the third pic with the hacked end with the bushing will be coming off but I need the concentricity for turning threads. You get it!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2940.jpeg
    IMG_2940.jpeg
    387.4 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_2942.jpeg
    IMG_2942.jpeg
    522.8 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2943.jpeg
    IMG_2943.jpeg
    298.3 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_2944.jpeg
    IMG_2944.jpeg
    321.1 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_2941.jpeg
    IMG_2941.jpeg
    498.8 KB · Views: 14
Last edited:
Making progress.
I have to make a small bushing to snug up the lateral movement in the spindle. About .050"
Spins very freely and smooth as glass.
I may add a felt type seal inside the cap. That's the easiest way that I can see.
 

Attachments

  • cyl 1.jpg
    cyl 1.jpg
    39.7 KB · Views: 13
  • cyl 2.jpg
    cyl 2.jpg
    57 KB · Views: 12
  • cyl 3.jpg
    cyl 3.jpg
    45.3 KB · Views: 11
  • cyl 4.jpg
    cyl 4.jpg
    44.4 KB · Views: 11
Well shoot.
I have .002" of runout. Measured by placing a large V-block on my surface plate, surface gauge with tenths indicator.
I learned a ton on this scrap pile.

I'll begin again with McMaster sealed bearings and a better design. Every bearing they sell is metric, dang. I'm just too stuck in my ways.

After watching Clough42 and others on Youtube I think I can do a better job.
Also, I'm going to use 12L14.
In other words, I'm getting off my wallet this time :)
 
Well shoot.
I have .002" of runout. Measured by placing a large V-block on my surface plate, surface gauge with tenths indicator.
I learned a ton on this scrap pile.

I'll begin again with McMaster sealed bearings and a better design. Every bearing they sell is metric, dang. I'm just too stuck in my ways.

After watching Clough42 and others on Youtube I think I can do a better job.
Also, I'm going to use 12L14.
In other words, I'm getting off my wallet this time :)
what about 1144 stress proof? easily machinable, harder?
 
Back
Top