Which Metric Transposing Gears?

Jake, I had my son print me up the 127/100 combo.. and some others. Available on thingeverse. man are they big.
I use the Halligan calculated most of the time. I have not used the prints.
BIG
PXL_20240730_193414215.jpg
 
I have elected to get the 127/100 gear "set" from the same seller I originally linked to. It's on the way. Honestly, I'm feeling much better than the complete brain block I was having the other night.... Honestly, I can "math" a little bit. Not a lot, and sometimes I sweat a little bit, but I can....

Anyhow... the brain block on missing threads with the 127/100 combination, I think that's on me. And with you folks good advice (smack in the back of the head?) I've got those coming. I don't "NEED" that precision, but I want it, even at the expense of dealing with the "awkward fit" in the gear train. I think that sort of thing bothers me less than most folks, so no worries on my end there.

That gear set from e-bay looks like a good deal. What is missing is the chart that goes with it. I can photograph the chart on my 10K and send it to you.

I'd LOVE to have a picture of the plate. I'm sure that I could make something useful out of it. There's a black and white of one in my "How To Run A Lathe, but it's not legible enough to even capture the information.

Jake, I had my son print me up the 127/100 combo.. and some others. Available on thingeverse. man are they big.
I use the Halligan calculated most of the time. I have not used the prints.

I honestly don't know anybody that 3D prints on a hobby or one off level, or anything outside of a business where "job shop work" just isn't available on the printer... So I guess (with a little stretching and skewing) I guess I just hired some dude on eBay to 3D print me some gears. I actually want that, because while the time will come in my lifetime, right now in my world, they'll bee stored more than used, and given what a genuine set of gears goes for... I'd probably sell 'em anyway and buy a new car I'd hate to damage a collectible antique by neglect....
 
Last edited:
I did a group buy for metricating a Hardinge lathe. There were three fine pitch gears that did two ratios of the metric bit and about 5 normal change gears. One reason to have a few more gears is that you can run into "it doesn't fit" issues on your banjo. IE the center to center needs an idler size you don't have.

The set is sorta odd, as Hardinge has the 3 change lever that adds a 1:2:4 switch to the train.
40DP gears 70, 80, and 127 teeth
20DP gears 20, 24, 28, 40, 45, and 50

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
127/100 = 1.27. 61/48 = 1.27083333333. There are probably other gear combos that are very close to the 127/100 ratio. If you don't have room for the 127/100 combo you could try the 61/48 combo.
 
Just an update. The gears have come, they fit, and fit surprisingly well. Next project is going to be to scrub the "varhish" off of the existing gear hubs and shafts on the lathe. It probably would have been happy to sit there undistrubed for another 75 years, but it's in the daylight now.... Anyhow, I started on this hydraulic puller, but the plates have not come. FedEx says they have come. I was here all day... So an early update lest I forget by the time that gets sorted out.

Step one was to take the cylinder all apart so I could use it for testing, as the end won't go in my spindle bore. This has escalated to my larger set, the 10 ton set, not sure if I knew that before, but it's still the 1.50mm pitch on an odd diameter that's not SAE or Metric. So I put that barrel in the lathe, pointed a threading tool at the peak of the threads, and "followed" them by hand until I figured out how to read the paper printed chart that came with the gears. Perfect. Dead nutz. Then I set about grinding a tool to chase the threads on this puller, which have had a hard life. (Both of my porta power sets came from Northern Hydraulic. So it's been a good life.... The thread has a crazy big, part flat, part rounded root, so the threads are just about incomplete, although not quite. Why did they do that? I dunno. Better tool life with a bigger flat and two radiused edges int here? And dead sharp peaks. Wow. They've gotta be making their own inserts, or you can buy mass produced inserts to make chitty threads? Well, I expected no less, that's why I studied them going in. So I ground a tool to fit as best as I could with any practicality, and took out all the paint and the dings, got NO complete strings, and ALL the paint is gone. That's as good as it gets in a practical sense, and I did not thin the tube any more than it was. (Another reason for "custom" thread form?) Still pulling the lathe by hand, because A, I'm a chicken, and B, I don't have a live center big enough to catch the open end of the barel, so I just had it up on a drill chuck. That'd probably wreck something under power. And the setup and settings are proven. And life is good.

So, the "other" thread, the female thread... Life is not good any more. Because that's a non standard thread form (even though it's thankfully a standard pitch), normal internal threads are gonna be a problem. So I set about grinding another threading tool (technically, the back end of the first one), to do the inverse of that. First a look at the factory "toe" that screws on there in case you want to set up the toe jack function. Sure enough, those threads are cut (visually only) about two thirds as deep as they oughtta be, with an "as cast" flat on the peak of the threads, and to a very pointy valley. Whatever they did, they did it on purpose.......... So I basically just made up a thread boring tool that's dead sharp (less a touch with a fine stone) to match what they did.

Proof of concept? Absolutely, since I'm not qualified to invent new thread forms. You can see the rubber bootie that was supposed to protect those threads is swolen big enough to fit the new thread protector inside of it... Just how it came out of the box. (Both of my pullers came that way, it's not compatible with the oil (which I think was kerosene) that was leaking out of them right from new. Anyhow, so since I was gonna need to verify my calculations/estimations/wild arse guesses to get these two threads to match with a "better than original" arrangement, making that thread protector was a no brainer. If I didn't need a test piece anyhow, I wouldn't have bothered.

And then the old kingpin (see the grooves in it? There was a bigger set in the metal bin, but some ijut didn't think about the grooves when measiring for diameter...) That pilot snaps over the end like the factory feet or rods do, and is really not "needed". The flat foot would work just fine. But this one fits tightly and will hold the whole arrangement mostly in place, so that one arm is still available to pump the pump. I might as well do that, since I don't have the important part yet....


I'll try to remember to get a picture when the plates get done, but unfortunately I'm not sure what the timeframe on that is going to be. Besides, that's gonna be anticlimactic as that's the least of it. It's just a plate with a threaded hole in it, and two pulling studs.....
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240804_141308144.jpg
    IMG_20240804_141308144.jpg
    219.4 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_20240804_141418042.jpg
    IMG_20240804_141418042.jpg
    243.8 KB · Views: 5
Back
Top