What tools to buy?

[astjp2]

Re: Scraping QCTP

Erik, thank you for the information. Tim

I think you should. Scraping will guarantee you have flat surfaces, and that will eliminate rocking due to bad surfaces. I would say 10 ppi would be plenty. You will want to make sure you get some significant (50%) spotting coverage. You can get that fairly easily by wet stoning after you scrape it flat.

I think the type 2 holder has a v groove to hold a round bit. The v is not so wide that you can't use flat tools, but it can be inconvenient when mounting small tools -- they may not be as wide as the v.

 

[astjp2]

So I have been making progress, I am almost finished with a 600 rpm diamond lap. I need to rebuild the table because I broke a tap and I need to wire it up. Slowly but surely I will get there. Oh yeah, I had to make a bushing to fit the Crysalis 1200 grit lap onto the metric motor shaft. The outside of the lap has a .008 tir for out of round, what do you guys think I should do to get it to run true? Add some set screws? Tap it with a mallet? Any ideas would be appreciated. Tim

 

[Erik Brewster]

I had to make a bushing to fit the Crysalis 1200 grit lap onto the metric motor shaft. The outside of the lap has a .008 tir for out of round, what do you guys think I should do to get it to run true? Add some set screws? Tap it with a mallet? Any ideas would be appreciated. Tim

Scrape it. I'm guessing your bushing is an inch across and your lapping wheel is 8" across. You only need to take 0.001" of the correct part of the bushing. Figure out where the material needs to come off, measure it, scrape it, measure it, repeat until it is correct. Kind of a pain, but it's a small part.

You could sand it with sandpaper on a flat surface, if you put pressure in the correct spot, too.

You could also Dremel it with a sanding drum. These three solutions are all really the same thing; just different ways of removing the material.

 

[astjp2]

The lap is only 5" and the hole the bushing is in in the lap is 5/8" mounted on a 12mm D shaped shaft. I did get the busted tap out, had to use a carbide 3/16 endmill and a broken tap extractor. The endmill wound up turning in the tap piece and bottoming it out so I was able to use broken tap extractor to get back last chunk out. tim

 

[astjp2]

I redid the design and added some lightening holes. Just need to get it cut out. Tim

View attachment tim 2-2.pdf

 

[astjp2]

I've made a few changes and added some lightening hole. I also went with countersunk screws, it turned out nice. Tim

 

[astjp2]

Well I now have a surface plate and I added 3 more 4' florescent lights lights in my shop. The surface plate is 3'x4'x8". After Bebop verifies level and surface flatness, I will be able to start scraping. Tim

 

[astjp2]

I made some progress on the lathe today, I am ordering the parts I need, gears and screws as I find them. How does this look for the scraping for the cross slide? 4th pass

 

[4GSR]

Looking great!

Come scrape mine when you are finished)

 

[astjp2]

I have spent 3 days working on getting the gas furnace running in the shop, none of the safeties seemed to work so I am trying to locate parts for a Janitrol unit heater, dated 1956. The snap switch that turns on he fan was bad so I installed a 24 v coil relay to turn on the fan motor, there was no transformer so I had to buy one of those to get the low voltage for the thermostat and gas valve. I tried to get a 6 second timer to replace the snap switch but the one I got did not work. Now the motor for the fan is not working, I need to remove it and take it to the electrical shop to get repaired. Its a t42 frame 1/3 hp, not a common size, the t48 is more common. Hopefully I will have heat soon.

I also started my project to insulate my door, its a 10x18' sliding barn style door. That thing acts like a huge radiator and sucks out the heat that I did have in the shop. All in due time. Tim