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What tools to buy?
- Thread starter astjp2
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2013
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- 6
Scrapers can be very personal ... some people like flexible ones some like ones that are firm, in my experience the cormorant ones are firm .. the Anderson ones are more flexible. if you make your own you can tune it to your preference. It appearers we are neighbors Im in North Ogden ... I'll PM you my #, I would love to help shorten your learning curve :-}
Cheers Don
Cheers Don
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2013
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- 966
Don, any guidance would be appreciated. This is new to me, making machines work is what I do for a living, making them precise is what I am wanting to learn. TIm
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- Jul 29, 2013
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- 6
Im free now ...give me a call :-D
Don
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2013
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- 966
I ordered the Connelly book yesterday, now I need to get a good scraper. It will be a matter of time till I find it on the bag or CL. I also picked up a small chunk of class 40 cast iron from a local supplier, they had it in their remenant section. Now I have something to practice on. :whiteflag:Tim
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- Jul 1, 2012
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I wouldn't count on machine repair guy.
Contact these guys, they makes them and they are legit. Both of the following 2 guys I believe sell them raw casting, machined or scraped.
Gregory Dermer ....... Greg was a student and I know a friend of mine just bough a couple castings from him a month ago
2945 NE 17th Ave
Portland, OR 97212
503-805-0680
Also this guy used to make em too. The last time I spoke to his guy 2 years ago and he was out of stock.....
Craig Donges, 8389 State Route 534, Berlin Center, Ohio 44401. Tele. # : 330 502 0066.
There is also a Indian company I have been talking to who makes them. Try those guys and if you don't get results let me know and I'll contact the other company.
Please let me know what you find out from these guys.
I know Polor Tool in Mpls has some used ones but he has unrealistic prices.
When I buy Dura-Bar I order grey iron. I believe it's class 25. The Dura-Bar plant I order from is in Wood-Stock IL
Also expect to high heat stress relieve the castings. Ask Greg and Craig if hey have been stress relieved. I would high temp stress relieve them before machining then stress relieve them again and then finish machine and scrape them.
High temp stress relieve means "cooking" the iron over 12 hours time. Put them in a furnace and take the heat to 1100 for 2 hours, then lower the heat to 900 for 2 hours, then lower to 700 for 2 hours, then 500 for 2 hours, then 250 for 2 hours and then off till they get to room temp. I have pro's do it.
Heating it up and shutting of the heat does nothing. If you don't stress relieve it will move around a lot. You will scrape it and the next day it will change.
Also "wring" the straight edge and that means to hang it from a rope and hit it with a soft blow hammer or 2 x 4 and let the iron vibrate or wring like a bell
Rich
Contact these guys, they makes them and they are legit. Both of the following 2 guys I believe sell them raw casting, machined or scraped.
Gregory Dermer ....... Greg was a student and I know a friend of mine just bough a couple castings from him a month ago
2945 NE 17th Ave
Portland, OR 97212
503-805-0680
Also this guy used to make em too. The last time I spoke to his guy 2 years ago and he was out of stock.....
Craig Donges, 8389 State Route 534, Berlin Center, Ohio 44401. Tele. # : 330 502 0066.
There is also a Indian company I have been talking to who makes them. Try those guys and if you don't get results let me know and I'll contact the other company.
Please let me know what you find out from these guys.
I know Polor Tool in Mpls has some used ones but he has unrealistic prices.
When I buy Dura-Bar I order grey iron. I believe it's class 25. The Dura-Bar plant I order from is in Wood-Stock IL
Also expect to high heat stress relieve the castings. Ask Greg and Craig if hey have been stress relieved. I would high temp stress relieve them before machining then stress relieve them again and then finish machine and scrape them.
High temp stress relieve means "cooking" the iron over 12 hours time. Put them in a furnace and take the heat to 1100 for 2 hours, then lower the heat to 900 for 2 hours, then lower to 700 for 2 hours, then 500 for 2 hours, then 250 for 2 hours and then off till they get to room temp. I have pro's do it.
Heating it up and shutting of the heat does nothing. If you don't stress relieve it will move around a lot. You will scrape it and the next day it will change.
Also "wring" the straight edge and that means to hang it from a rope and hit it with a soft blow hammer or 2 x 4 and let the iron vibrate or wring like a bell
Rich
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2012
- Messages
- 1,356
Hand scrapers.
My first had scraper (1964) was a Anderson with a HSS blade. I sharpened it more then scraping ion with it. I used it until aprox 1969 when we bought Sandvik with carbide tips. I cut the narrow Sanvik and added about 3" because I am tall. I used that until about 1980 when I bought my first Biax handscraper sold thru Dapra, we bought our first Biax Power Scraper in 1972. In 1982 or so I became a DAPRA Rep and their National Instructor teaching companies to scrape by hand and power. So naturally I pushed the Dapra products. Now being involved with hobbyists I have seen them make there own handscrapers. Nathan in Dallas a host of a class we had down there copied the one that was inside a popular hobby magazine who has asked This forum not to mention their name, but that magazine had a article on handscraping a year or so ago and they made a scraper that resembles the one Forrest Addy makes. Another person who teaches scraping with the help of Bebop who is a momber and helps in this forum. Nathan told me he figured it cost him $25.00 in material. Last spring I was teaching a class in IL and they needed a handscraper and I went to Farm and Fleet and bought a 3/16" x 1" x 48" piece of cold roll bar stock and used a Biax to copy. We bolted on a Biax Power scraper blade to it and it worked great. I will see if I can attach a picture of it, if not it is inside my career gallery inside my profile. The blue handle scraper is a Biax with blade costs around $170.00. See the round sanding disk I screw on the end that "spreads out the hurt" when your body pushing the scraper. The home made one cost us $12.00 in steel and 2 - 1/4 20 screws and a file handle and the labor to cut a tang and drill the holes. I think a Anderson costs under $100.00. One thing you have to have is a diamond wheel to sharpen the carbide. I like a Glendo Accu-finish with a 600 grit wheel. Bill, Mell and Tadd have made there own and look back in this forums archives to see them. Rich
My first had scraper (1964) was a Anderson with a HSS blade. I sharpened it more then scraping ion with it. I used it until aprox 1969 when we bought Sandvik with carbide tips. I cut the narrow Sanvik and added about 3" because I am tall. I used that until about 1980 when I bought my first Biax handscraper sold thru Dapra, we bought our first Biax Power Scraper in 1972. In 1982 or so I became a DAPRA Rep and their National Instructor teaching companies to scrape by hand and power. So naturally I pushed the Dapra products. Now being involved with hobbyists I have seen them make there own handscrapers. Nathan in Dallas a host of a class we had down there copied the one that was inside a popular hobby magazine who has asked This forum not to mention their name, but that magazine had a article on handscraping a year or so ago and they made a scraper that resembles the one Forrest Addy makes. Another person who teaches scraping with the help of Bebop who is a momber and helps in this forum. Nathan told me he figured it cost him $25.00 in material. Last spring I was teaching a class in IL and they needed a handscraper and I went to Farm and Fleet and bought a 3/16" x 1" x 48" piece of cold roll bar stock and used a Biax to copy. We bolted on a Biax Power scraper blade to it and it worked great. I will see if I can attach a picture of it, if not it is inside my career gallery inside my profile. The blue handle scraper is a Biax with blade costs around $170.00. See the round sanding disk I screw on the end that "spreads out the hurt" when your body pushing the scraper. The home made one cost us $12.00 in steel and 2 - 1/4 20 screws and a file handle and the labor to cut a tang and drill the holes. I think a Anderson costs under $100.00. One thing you have to have is a diamond wheel to sharpen the carbide. I like a Glendo Accu-finish with a 600 grit wheel. Bill, Mell and Tadd have made there own and look back in this forums archives to see them. Rich
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- Joined
- Dec 23, 2012
- Messages
- 25
I forgot Sharpies! I find it really easy to get lost in scraping and forget where I'm trying to scrape and where I'm not. What direction I did last cycle, etc. I use Sharpies to write all over the part to keep track of things. It's easy to get off of cast iron and it usually gets scraped off in the next cycle, anyway.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2011
- Messages
- 8,016
Just for the record, most, if not all categorically, CMM tables are not certified as flat like surface plates. They develop their own base plane of reference from points measured by the probe, either a hard probe or a touch probe like a Reneshaw. They are generally very thick for their size, and do contain threaded metal inserts to hold inspection fixtures, etc. at times. They can, however, be lapped and certified to the same specifications as granite surface plates, but for the most part, inspection departments do not bother, since it isn't used as a surface plate.
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