What have you done in your shop lately?

[T Bredehoft]

I've been looking for a long time for Quick Change tooling for my PM 25. I found some, the mill doesn't cost much more. I decided to make my own. After considerable research I determined that ER11 collets would do what I want.
Referencing the image below, I made the following.
The piece on the left fits into a 3/4 R8 collet in the mill.
The next two pieces, the tool holder and the retainer are held together by the presence of the Collet nut.
The retainer is threaded inside with 8 pitch 1 1/8 Acme threads, mating with threads on the base piece.They screw together with about one revolution. I have notches for a spanner cut in them but so far haven't needed one.
The forth piece in the illustration shows the assembly ready to go to work.
The last piece has a Phillips chuck (new old stock). I assembled the whole thing, put the Philips chuck in with a 1/8 dowel pin, it ran out .0003. Good enough for drilling, to my standards. All pieces were machined to be concentric, checked and corrected to .0005 or better before finish machining. I will have 8 pieces when I get done making all of them. Enough for a couple of set ups.



The picture could have been a bit better.

 

[nnam]

I plan to do some o/a brazing of cast iron. Some people said to tin it first so it would stick. I don't know how that work. From what I saw in various video, people clean it up to shiny level, put them next to each other (or some light clamping as I understand it), then start pre-heating the piece by keeping moving the Oxy Acetylene torch. Once it's dull red, they start to focus on one point and dip the rod within the flame, not outside of the flame as normal soldering or copper brazing.
Two other questions I have is the dull red part, where people said so, but somehow I just can't see that on the video. So I don't know how to determine when the pre-heat is sufficient. Another question would be for a someone larger piece such as 5 lbs large, what would the brazing tip size to use?
Also, I plan to dip it in something to keep it warm. Some said cat litter. I have own a cat, and I don't know which type of cat litter to use. Some said sand, is it just dry play sand at the home depot? Can I just put in inside a box made of fire bricks?

 

[nnam]

Today, I am in a process of buying an ultrasonic cleaner. I have a feeling that I am going feel real "upset" later because why didn't I buy it before. How many times I have to poke carburetors of mower or trimmers? Scrubbing greasy parts, tools? I just found that for expensive bearings, sometimes, just cleaning it and repack it would make it work good, versus spending money to buy them, which is very expensive compared to an ultrasonic cleaner if it's very expensive bearing. Time will tell. I am looking at 6 liter unit.
I am sure many here probably have them before. Any advise on size or anything related to this kind of things?

 

[f350ca]

Think the one I have is 6 litre, they are great for cleaning a bunch of greasy bolts and hardware when you tear something down. Seam to work well on garburators and fuel pumps and such.
A possible word of caution on cleaning bearings. Read an article where they claimed they were using one to remove the grease from new bearings to repack with a customer specked grease. According to them all the bearings failed, they thought the ultrasonic action was vibrating the balls and brinelling the races. Don't believe a lot of what I read on the net but this article has stopped me from trying it, but sure seams like a great way to clean them. Maybe someone else can confirm or deny,

Greg

 

[pontiac428]

Any advise on size or anything related to this kind of things?

Yes. Keep your fingers out of the bath if'n it's running. They ain't called "sonic cellular disruptors" in longhand for nothing! (if you were wondering, it's sonicator for short). Because the alternative to safety is painful.

 

[nnam]

According to them all the bearings failed, they thought the ultrasonic action was vibrating the balls and brinelling the races.

Greg

That makes sense. The constant hammering of hard bearing may destroy things, even themselves.
I got to read more before doing that.

 

[royesses]

Last week I let my son use my Milwaukee 1/2" drive 1400 lb/ft impact to put brakes on his one ton. 5 minutes later he gave me my 22mm Klutch deep impact socket split down the side. It's a cheap socket so I did not complain. He breaks every tool he can get his hands on anyway.

I replaced it with a Wright brand socket. I needed to make an ER32 torque wrench adapter so I used the drive end of the broken socket and cut off an ER32 wrench for a transplant. Lemonade out of lemons I guess. It worked great. The length is 2 inches added to the torque wrench so the math is easy if the wrench is used inline with the torque wrench handle and no math required if used at a 90° angle to the torque wrench handle. Please ignore the ugly tig weld. Between cataracts and an old unsteady hand my welds are looking like pigeon droppings.
There is a free torque wrench extension calculator for Iphone and Android available from Norbar torque tools named "Torque Wrench Extension Calculator" that I use to easily find the required torque setting. My CDI torque wrench has a handle length of 15.5 inches so the setting for 100lb/ft on the nut is 88.57lb/ft on the wrench. The ER32 nut is a ball bearing version. The collet chuck is from LMS. I drilled 3 holes on the chuck and use a Gedore 80-90mm pin spanner wrench to hold while torquing.
I used a HSS 1/16"parting blade on the mini lathe to cut off the socket drive end. That chrome- moly socket is tough, I had to sharpen the parting blade 3 times.


Roy

 

[nnam]

That weld is beautiful by my standard, or ability (without a rotating table)

I love hammer action. The other day, I tried to turn a siezed 3/4" bolts with large cheater bar. It didn't work. I am worried it will break. Use the same milwaukee 1400 lbs wrench, it moves right away.

Wow, breaking a large chrome molly socket like that, that is super powerful.

 

[nnam]

On the 88.57 ft lb, I think it doesn't depend on the length of the torque wrench. To the torque wrench square socket insert, it is the same 100 ft lb, no matter which length torque wrench you use.

so I think to the center of the socket, it feels like 100 lbs rotate 1 ft away. Your net result would be straight distance between center of er32 to 12" from center of socket. Say that is D in inches, and you need a torque of T, the setting torque on the wrench would be:

12/D * T

In your case, 12/14×100= 85.7 lb ft

If the angle is a straight line, D = 12" + r

Where r is radius of your made up tool, from center of socket to center of er32

If you rotate, it is no longer a straight addition.

You use the torque wrench length to calculate how much your hand or arm feel if you hold it at the tip of the end.

Someone please check my math and correct me.

 

[royesses]

On the 88.57 ft lb, I think it doesn't depend on the length of the torque wrench. To the torque wrench square socket insert, it is the same 100 ft lb, no matter which length torque wrench you use.

so I think to the center of the socket, it feels like 100 lbs rotate 1 ft away. Your net result would be straight distance between center of er32 to 12" from center of socket. Say that is D in inches, and you need a torque of T, the setting torque on the wrench would be:

12/D * T

In your case, 12/14×100= 85.7 lb ft

If the angle is a straight line, D = 12" + r

Where r is radius of your made up tool, from center of socket to center of er32

If you rotate, it is no longer a straight addition.

You use the torque wrench length to calculate how much your hand or arm feel if you hold it at the tip of the end.

Someone please check my math and correct me.

nnam here is the the math I used from CDI: I used the Norbar app to do the calculation, but it agreed with my Casio calculator.
I don't have a welding turntable either, the last time I did was 30+ years ago when I made a living welding. I'm sure your welds are very good.
Thank you for the reply to my post and the like.

Roy