What have you done in your shop lately?

[mmcmdl]

Couple days off to try to straighten up the place from summer activities . I need to organize and dispose of some things or I'll be sleeping out in the front yard .

 

[westerner]

I am here for you, man! See my reply to your Counterbore post, ya?

In my shop lately- I blew up my 3/4 drive to 1/2 drive socket adapter (impact rated) in an attempt to remove the harmonic balancer on my darling bride's Honda CRV. My 3/4 impact gun is old school, and a truly hard hitter.
Any of these engines have a notoriously tight bolt.
I am in the process of machining a "bushing" to go from the 19 mm bolt head size to the smallest 3/4 drive socket I can find (7/8). When I blow THAT up, I will start welding small sockets onto bigger drives. Good fun. I had to machine the 19mm socket down to 1" OD to fit my 5C collet, so that I could chuck that up into my 6 sided collet block, so I could size that to smash fit into the 7/8 socket. I may drop a little brass or solder into THAT mess in an attempt to "get er done".
After all, why would I send this to the local shop and pay $300 to get this done, when I have already spent $5000 on the "machine shop" in my garage?

 

[rock_breaker]

I have never touched a Honda with a tool but will ask a question about heating the bolt. In reading about tight bolt problems that question comes up quite often and especially with modern cars. Thread locking seems to have come of age in the last 20-30 years IMHO. Good luck in getting that bolt loose. Another question, is it left .or right hand threads.
Have a good day
Ray

 

[Tim9]

Today I tried to continue cutting an existing thread. Basically, the rod was broken near the end of the threading area. After I welded it back up, I tried to line the cutting bit into one of the existing thread, move the part in a way that the dial falls into a number. This can be seen rather easy since it's a large 3/4" coarse thread. I then started to cut, but somehow the existing thread just got messed up. That didn't make any sense to me. It's easier for me to just weld all over the whole threading area and re-cut it. But just wanted to find out what I did wrong, or it's any advise on this?

I am thinking of just cutting out that weld part without thread may work too, but having a lathe, I like to play with it a bit and maybe learn something.

Picking up internal threads... Joe Piz

This is really a good video on picking up threads for repairs or if you just screw the pup when threading..
I’ve run into this problem recently and this method shown by Joe is really good.

 

[nnam]

Picking up internal threads... Joe Piz

This is really a good video on picking up threads for repairs or if you just screw the pup when threading..
I’ve run into this problem recently and this method shown by Joe is really good.

Very good technique. Thanks.

 

[silverhawk]

I have never touched a Honda with a tool but will ask a question about heating the bolt. In reading about tight bolt problems that question comes up quite often and especially with modern cars. Thread locking seems to have come of age in the last 20-30 years IMHO. Good luck in getting that bolt loose. Another question, is it left .or right hand threads.
Have a good day
Ray

I agree. Check that it isn't a left hand thread. It's been years since I did that to my Honda, so my memory has faded, but that is crucial to know.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[nnam]

If you had the tool bit at 90 degrees to the work and aligned with the existing thread I would suspect backlash in the feed screw wasnt taken up.
Or the wrong thread count was used.
I have to keep my half nuts fully engaged when reversing back to the start of the thread and go a bit further before going forwards again to take up the backlash in the system.
It is possible to pick up the thread but does take a bit of fiddling to get it accurate.
Set the tool bit aligned up with the thread as best as you think but dont let it actually touch.
Run the lathe and watch to see if the point of the tool accurately follows the thread or what it will probably do is lag a little.
Adjust accordingly.

After watching the other video where it was shown how to pick up from existing threads, it just dawns on me that I positioned the bit centered to the thread, but later plunge cut it at 29 degree angle using the compound. So that completely messed it up.

I was so confident (bit mistake) that I didn't both check or at least do a manual hand roll to check on existing threads. It's a bit hard to do hand roll of the chuck at that low thread per inch count though (it's real hard).

 

[pontiac428]

In my shop lately- I blew up my 3/4 drive to 1/2 drive socket adapter (impact rated) in an attempt to remove the harmonic balancer on my darling bride's Honda CRV. My 3/4 impact gun is old school, and a truly hard hitter.
Any of these engines have a notoriously tight bolt.

Honda crank bolts are notorious for being difficult to remove. I have two 3/4 drive tools for dealing with Hondas: my trusty 30 lb 1970s Ingersoll Rand impact (works if I can get enough air to it) and my 52" "Mjolnir" breaker bar. Heat helps. More specific, heat and quench, heat and quench... repeat.

 

[westerner]

Another question, is it left .or right hand threads.

Check that it isn't a left hand thread.

Honda crank bolts are notorious for being difficult to remove.

Thanks, guys! I appreciate the concern. I have access to factory repair manuals, and they mention NOTHING about left hand threads. Ford did a left hand thread on their fan nuts for a time there, and they were very good at noting that on the fan shroud. This engine has the crank pulley on the passenger side, and so a "clockwise" rotation from that end. Earlier Honda engines had the crank pulley on the DRIVER'S side, and therefore "counter" clockwise from that end. Does that make a difference? Did Honda send a memo that I did not get? I guess the answer would be to order a crank bolt, and check the threads. And ya, my Chicago Pneumatic 3/4 gun is freshly overhauled, and from the 70's. It is nearly too heavy for me to use one-handed anymore, and when I put the 1/2" hose on it, "heavy" describes the sound of impact quite accurately I believe. I am soaking the bolt with my very best penetrating elixir, and I have borrowed socketry to punish. I will keep you all informed.

 

[horty]

I am here for you, man! See my reply to your Counterbore post, ya?

In my shop lately- I blew up my 3/4 drive to 1/2 drive socket adapter (impact rated) in an attempt to remove the harmonic balancer on my darling bride's Honda CRV. My 3/4 impact gun is old school, and a truly hard hitter.
Any of these engines have a notoriously tight bolt.
I am in the process of machining a "bushing" to go from the 19 mm bolt head size to the smallest 3/4 drive socket I can find (7/8). When I blow THAT up, I will start welding small sockets onto bigger drives. Good fun. I had to machine the 19mm socket down to 1" OD to fit my 5C collet, so that I could chuck that up into my 6 sided collet block, so I could size that to smash fit into the 7/8 socket. I may drop a little brass or solder into THAT mess in an attempt to "get er done".
After all, why would I send this to the local shop and pay $300 to get this done, when I have already spent $5000 on the "machine shop" in my garage?

My son had the same problem with his, he used a air chisel with a blunt end and after about 15 min of pounding on the nut it finally came loose, It must have stretched the nut enough to loosen it..