What have you done in your shop lately?

I went into my Grainger account, when I clicked on add or went to place in my shopping cart I get this pop-up.

This product cannot be shipped to some areas of the U.S.
Below this there are 2 bubbles, you need t answer the question, "Will this product be shipped to:CA "

Yeah, it's a California thing.
 
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Talk about straghten cast iron wheel, I have a problem myself. My badsaw has two rough spots and it shakes when reached those points. I tried to true the wheel with my lathe before but the effort was unsuccessful. Now I am thinking of giving it another try.

I will remove it and check what is going on. If the center is bent (due to bent spoke for example), I may bore it to larger size, or weld and bore.

To weld, I am thinking of heating it up slowly with an electric stow, maybe with an aluminum spacer to spread the heat. Once hot, I would put it durectly on it, maybe still have aluminum or steel sheet beneath to protect the stove ad fill it with weld. After that would be bury in sand or lower the stove setting gradually. What do you think of that plan?

I would go with a larger bearing if there is a good match. The current one is 6203 I think.

I looked up and boring under size for outter housing under 3" diameter is from 0.5 thou to 1.5 thou.

Do anyone have suggestion on centering large item like this on a mill without a DRO? I still didn't install my dro yet.
 
When I went through my Kalamazoo well saw I cut both wheels on my Bridgeport using a rotary table. Centered RT then used a shaft that fit the wheel and mounted in 3jaw on RT. Took light cuts cleaned up quickly and redefined the square back edge on wheels easily in the cast iron wheels. If the bore is out of whack rebore it and sleeve it. Depending on how far out it is by aligning to the existing bore and recutting the OD of the wheel(depends if you have enough material) will take care of the wobble?
 
I went ahead and bored out my band saw wheel and added a sleeve to it. I had a hard time finding an off the shelf sleeve. So I just made one with a galvanized fence tubing that happens to have the right size for me to cut. It was hard to find something of the correct size that can be used to for making the sleeve.

Then a funny part was after I clamped the wheel onto a milling machine and all was centered using a dial indicator on the center hole. That took me a long time since it's a horizontal mill. I had to run around many times to line it up. I went to something like 0.17 thou. I was really happy, then I can't put the boring tool in. I was frustrated after all that work, and not want to move out of alignment so I can put the boring tool in before re-align.

I decided to try something different. I put a face plate on the lathe, used some extra T-nuts I bought before and clamped the wheel up nicely. It is still hard, but I only need to stand there and hit it with rubber mallet here and there, versus running around the mill, climb up and down, etc. The mill, I can use the knobs while with the lathe, it's a rubber mallet. Once done, boring was the easy part.

I also cut out the outside, just to make sure it's good. Well, it's a mistake. I cut the backing ridge, but also put very light cut on the crown area. It's so light that the old rust or black metal is still there. But now, the blade doesn't sit back anymore. I need to cut the crown for it.

Would someone please tell me what's the shape or bevel angle for it? I read somewhere about 1/3 from the backing edge, but I am not sure.

The sleeve went in very nicely, and so did the bearings. However, the bearing was a bit tight. I can tell by rotating it by hand, I can feel discreet resistance, not smooth feeling. Probably it was because the sleeve was compressed, making its ID even smaller than the under sized ID it was cut to have a tight fit. They went in real easy, so I thought it was good (I cranked the hydraulic press with my hand, without the bar, just using that tiny little bar insert hole).

So now that I have to align the wheel again for the crown cut, I would bore the sleeve down a few more thous to make sure the bearings will be alright. Test cut is ok (even with the blade side half way), I just feel the bearings are going to go with that pre-loaded state. If it gets hot, it's probably even tighter.
 
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Overhauled A Jacobs Chuck

Some months ago I picked up a 1/2" Jacobs chuck cheaply at a garage sale. Today I finally got around to pulling it apart, cleaning it
up and reassembling it. Jaws looked good, and on the DP I got a runout of .003". Good enough for a backup chuck.

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I spent 45 minutes looking for a drift that I just knew I’d put somewhere, so I could steal the chuck out of the drill press in order to drill a hole in some round stock with my newly assembled Atlas. Shortly after my wife arrived home, I found the drift, knocked out the chuck, installed it in the tailstock ram, covered the machine, and went in for dinner.
 
I spent 45 minutes looking for a drift that I just knew I’d put somewhere, so I could steal the chuck out of the drill press in order to drill a hole in some round stock with my newly assembled Atlas. Shortly after my wife arrived home, I found the drift, knocked out the chuck, installed it in the tailstock ram, covered the machine, and went in for dinner.
So the whole diner, you sit quiet with your mind still trapped in that lathe, and your wife wonder what happens
:-)

My wife would know and she told me before when my head is somewhere else
 
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