- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 9,722
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
What Did You Buy Today?
- Thread starter darkzero
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,558
I have the same one on my drill press. I though it would be overkill, but now I don’t know how I ever lived without it. It makes positioning the work soooo much easier and accurate than just a drill press vice.
Its still a drill press so “accuracy” is a fairly limited quality, but it is wayy better than just a vice.
Plus, I can clamp my work in the vice and moving to a new hole postion is just moving the table instead of unclamping or moving the part/vice. For me, its just easier.
I bought an acetylene B tank today to go with my Goss AA3 air-acetylene torch. I'm preparing to make some repairs on this:
This was an acquisition last month at the U.S. Army Band Tuba Workshop. It's bout 50 years old, and was hand-made in what was at the time East Germany. It was imported and house-branded by a well-known New York music store. The factory that made it was called B&S, a highly respected brand in later years. These were a secret known only to a few back in the day, and even today. It was designed by the same person who designed the classic and storied (well, among tuba players) Alexander tubas, and these were hand-hammered from flat sheets using methods that hadn't changed in a century. But because they were bargains in the early 70's, they were bought by those who would not take care of them. That made this one a unique buying opportunity--but it has some ugly dents that need to be pushed out and to do that I need to take some of it apart. Think of it like getting a Stradivarius violin for 8 cents on the dollar because somebody gouged it here and there with a careless screwdriver.
The valves will need some work, too, particularly the brass bearings they run in. I can usually shrink those down with ER32 collets with a drill or gauge pin backing up the collet so that it will clamp on the brass bushing that is part of the valve casings.
So, that meant I had to dig the Goss and Uniweld AA-style torches out of the pile and go find an acetylene tank. $200 for a full B tank, but $38 to refill it, at Roberts Oxygen. At least I found enough tips for now--the BA tips aren't as common these days.
Rick "life is cheaper if you can fix things, except for all the tools" Denney
This was an acquisition last month at the U.S. Army Band Tuba Workshop. It's bout 50 years old, and was hand-made in what was at the time East Germany. It was imported and house-branded by a well-known New York music store. The factory that made it was called B&S, a highly respected brand in later years. These were a secret known only to a few back in the day, and even today. It was designed by the same person who designed the classic and storied (well, among tuba players) Alexander tubas, and these were hand-hammered from flat sheets using methods that hadn't changed in a century. But because they were bargains in the early 70's, they were bought by those who would not take care of them. That made this one a unique buying opportunity--but it has some ugly dents that need to be pushed out and to do that I need to take some of it apart. Think of it like getting a Stradivarius violin for 8 cents on the dollar because somebody gouged it here and there with a careless screwdriver.
The valves will need some work, too, particularly the brass bearings they run in. I can usually shrink those down with ER32 collets with a drill or gauge pin backing up the collet so that it will clamp on the brass bushing that is part of the valve casings.
So, that meant I had to dig the Goss and Uniweld AA-style torches out of the pile and go find an acetylene tank. $200 for a full B tank, but $38 to refill it, at Roberts Oxygen. At least I found enough tips for now--the BA tips aren't as common these days.
Rick "life is cheaper if you can fix things, except for all the tools" Denney
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,852
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,852
I'd only do a 25% bevel and hit it from both sides with lower amperage (half penetration but adequate base metal mixing) to control warping on thin leg castings. If it survives a slowed cooldown without moving too much, it'll be permanent. Nickel diffuses into the base metal and makes it friendly for joining. Unlike flame welding cast iron, nickel welding will not be brittle in the weld area. Nickel forms a homogeneous bond, unlike silicon bronze. The 55 HRC alloy is ductile and easy to weld with.
Thanks. I used to weld hay baler needles with that stuff years ago, but tacked one side, ground the other side half way through and filled it, then flipped it, ground into the new weld and filled that. I found a few rods today in my stash but a pound of those are $48.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,194
Excellent! Thank you. Same one.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,194
Went to use my new welder and I could not plug it anywhere…
All the receptacles I have are stove/range type…. I need an adapter
Thought about just changing the plug but then I can’t use the 220 to 110 adapter that came with the machine….
So I just bought a stove plug NEMA 10-50P to welder 6-50R welding adapter.
All this to do a favor for my cousin to weld some patio stuff that came apart. I went to my friend’s house and used his welder…
Apologies for the low light… it was dark and I was in a hurry…
And if you are wondering why I did not use the 220 to 110 adapter, the receptacles in the garage in Orlando are crap and trip the breaker easily… plus my friend has a gas bottle and I have not purchased one yet. Welding with shielding gas is sooooo much better…
All the receptacles I have are stove/range type…. I need an adapter
Thought about just changing the plug but then I can’t use the 220 to 110 adapter that came with the machine….
So I just bought a stove plug NEMA 10-50P to welder 6-50R welding adapter.
All this to do a favor for my cousin to weld some patio stuff that came apart. I went to my friend’s house and used his welder…
Apologies for the low light… it was dark and I was in a hurry…
And if you are wondering why I did not use the 220 to 110 adapter, the receptacles in the garage in Orlando are crap and trip the breaker easily… plus my friend has a gas bottle and I have not purchased one yet. Welding with shielding gas is sooooo much better…
Last edited: