Why blind holes?
Threaded holes are not as true as pin holes. Pin holes should be much truer to 90 A thread has play. A pin hole is reamed, and accurate.
i think if done right, even though it may not be as accurate as a "reamed" hole. My initial thoughts were that with a threaded pin, you can put them in any hole on the plate, also, to the degree of "accuracy" might be different for some cases.. if that be the case. Then maybe two different ones then, eh?
i think if done right, even though it may not be as accurate as a "reamed" hole. My initial thoughts were that with a threaded pin, you can put them in any hole on the plate, also, to the degree of "accuracy" might be different for some cases.. if that be the case. Then maybe two different ones then, eh?
if just needed to hold it yes, but if looking for repeatability, lets say you square your mill to the pins.. using a parallel.
You can be sure that they won't loosen and shift your datum.
I don't disagree that threaded pins can be useful. I am just saying that reamed holes that pins fit into are well , another way, maybe the preferred way.. But threaded are not wrong. I would not use a blind hole on these plates. You want to be able to clean them of swarf.
There's always more than one way, to do a process. Opinions are mine, and not necessarily correct.
I have had quite a few different fixture plates over the years . Plenty of which were just the same as the one posted . It works good as is and IS sacraficial . My good plates were hardened and ground plates with threads and also stand off studs that parts could be clamped to . This allowed insert mills and drills to penetrate part without machining into the table and allow the insert drill slugs to go thru the clearance . An overlay chart of part and pin locations was used . It does make sense and works great , but I'm sure my explanations suck trying to explain it .
But if you must know.. the reason i got on here today is, i need to order some 14/4 stranded and some 10/3 for the lathe set up.. and i can not find any 14/4 stranded in this town.. 10/3 is contractor size rolls.. i don't need that either!
This is commonly called a sub plate for a mill and is nothing special . It's aluminum and can be cut into and then re-surfaced as necessary . A true table fixture requires alot of work and you don't want to be cutting into it . It really depends on what type of work , repetitive jobs and how much $$$$ you want to stick into it . I probably had 100 + hours into one and sold it on Ebay years back . I think I got 8 bucks for it . I wish I had it back now .
But if you must know.. the reason i got on here today is, i need to order some 14/4 stranded and some 10/3 for the lathe set up.. and i can not find any 14/4 stranded in this town.. 10/3 is contractor size rolls.. i don't need that either!
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