What Did You Buy Today?

I received a couple of Hemingway kit projects for Christmas and looking at the drawings, all measurements are in imperial. Other than a digital caliper than can show imperial, everything else I own is metric. I could have translated the drawing to metric, but I figured I’d give imperial a go and buy an imperial mic on the 0-2 inch range. When searching through eBay however, I saw a batch of mics being sold together and a mix of Mitutoyo, Moore and Wright and another name that I can’t pronounce (or have heard of) and I had to have them!

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All in good working order. I’ve not owned anything mitutoyo before and I have to say, they do feel a totally different quality (even to my inexperienced self). I believe Moore and Wright are a good British brand and the other mic also feels very nice.

In the box I also received these:

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He also threw in a Moore and wright imperial and metric thread gauge.

All for £50!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
pontiac428 said:
If you don't have a Shimano 1/4" track chain whip yet, you'll need it, too!
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Indeed. My Park Tool chain whip’s handle is very uncomfortable and because of that, I usually resort to rotafixing.
 
I haven't bought anything - yet. I'll peruse All Industrial's sale to see what they have. Here's the link if you're interested.

Machine Shop Supplies & Industrial Tools | All Industrial Tool Supply

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.
allindustrial.com allindustrial.com
 
Mauzinette said:
Indeed. My Park Tool chain whip’s handle is very uncomfortable and because of that, I usually resort to rotafixing.
Click to expand...
That might be okay until it isn't. From the looks of things, you're building a street bike (That 53T is going to kill you and take the enjoyment out of it). At the track, the surface dictates the tire selection, and those two factors (plus your legs) dictate the cog. You need to be able to change them either way. Installing is easy, removal (especially after street use) can be nigh impossible sometimes. I logged 250 miles a week for three years on a brakeless fixed gear, and have raced numerous alleycat street races in the western US and in Europe. I also lived a few kilometers away from the longest (400m) velodrome in Europe, so I know a little bit about those bikes. Buried on an archive hard drive, I have pictures of my bike hanging on statues and landmarks all over western Europe and cities in the US. I rode 45T/17T on the street, and never time trialed with more than 52T/13T. I was never that competitive as a sprinter, but I could run a pursuit. Mostly now I just feel old.
 
pontiac428 said:
That might be okay until it isn't. From the looks of things, you're building a street bike (That 53T is going to kill you and take the enjoyment out of it). At the track, the surface dictates the tire selection, and those two factors (plus your legs) dictate the cog. You need to be able to change them either way. Installing is easy, removal (especially after street use) can be nigh impossible sometimes. I logged 250 miles a week for three years on a brakeless fixed gear, and have raced numerous alleycat street races in the western US and in Europe. I also lived a few kilometers away from the longest (400m) velodrome in Europe, so I know a little bit about those bikes. Buried on an archive hard drive, I have pictures of my bike hanging on statues and landmarks all over western Europe and cities in the US. I rode 45T/17T on the street, and never time trialed with more than 52T/13T. I was never that competitive as a sprinter, but I could run a pursuit. Mostly now I just feel old.
Click to expand...

I use 47/20 on my fixed; riding on moderately hilly trails. May be the only Dura-ace track hub on the planet with a cog larger than the hub flanges. Can't imagine using a 53.
 
woodchucker said:
Bought these on ebay b4 Christmas. Only 2 the short 2 have the proper angle to pull material down in the vise. The other 2 are not really angled. I'll have to grind them. I thought they were, or I would probably not have bought them.
Anyway, I thought I would try coke as a derusting on one, while doing the others with elbow grease. It did clean it up a little, but I wound up having to give it elbow grease because it wasn't so much rusty, as stained from previous rust or oil.

Before Cleanup
View attachment 472300
This one long one heads to coca cola for about 3 hours..
View attachment 472301
After cleaning the top 3 with elbow grease, and the bottom came out of coke.
View attachment 472302
After elbow grease.
View attachment 472303
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I have a set of these but I don't know how they work.
Would you please explain/show us how to use these tapered vise helpers??
 
Janderso said:
I have a set of these but I don't know how they work.
Would you please explain/show us how to use these tapered vise helpers??
Click to expand...
sure, I'll try.
So they are mainly made for old style vises that don't pull down like the Kurt style do. So you would put your parallels in , support your workpiece, then "I put another parallel in the moveable jaw higher than the others, and then put the tool in the vise locking in the material.
I'll take a pic or shoot a video shortly. The angle on the tool and the sharp point or edge (entire tool is hardened) pulls down so it doesn't lift.
I'm not sure if using one on each side is a good idea or not. I am only familiar with the basics of what it does..
vid is uploaded , and processing now... about 34 minutes
 
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