What Did You Buy Today?

Didn't buy anything but gained a few $$$$ from a sale on the bay . My hydraulic die sets for hose crimping got to the point for me to let them go . Pretty big chunk o change and more space in the basement ! Starting up on FB Marketplace very soon to move the big stuff . momoneymomoneymomoneyMaybe that sawmill will show up this summer . :encourage:
 
pontiac428 said:
That might be okay until it isn't. From the looks of things, you're building a street bike (That 53T is going to kill you and take the enjoyment out of it). At the track, the surface dictates the tire selection, and those two factors (plus your legs) dictate the cog. You need to be able to change them either way. Installing is easy, removal (especially after street use) can be nigh impossible sometimes. I logged 250 miles a week for three years on a brakeless fixed gear, and have raced numerous alleycat street races in the western US and in Europe. I also lived a few kilometers away from the longest (400m) velodrome in Europe, so I know a little bit about those bikes. Buried on an archive hard drive, I have pictures of my bike hanging on statues and landmarks all over western Europe and cities in the US. I rode 45T/17T on the street, and never time trialed with more than 52T/13T. I was never that competitive as a sprinter, but I could run a pursuit. Mostly now I just feel old.
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I have a 48t Dura-Ace chainring and a 19t EAI cog installed. I used to ride 48/17 back in the day, but decided to turn things down a notch with this bike. Can’t wait to ride alleycats again tho’.
 
Windsurfer said:
I use 47/20 on my fixed; riding on moderately hilly trails. May be the only Dura-ace track hub on the planet with a cog larger than the hub flanges. Can't imagine using a 53.
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On the street I can’t imagine using anything above 49t.
 
woodchucker said:
sure, I'll try.
So they are mainly made for old style vises that don't pull down like the Kurt style do. So you would put your parallels in , support your workpiece, then "I put another parallel in the moveable jaw higher than the others, and then put the tool in the vise locking in the material.
I'll take a pic or shoot a video shortly. The angle on the tool and the sharp point or edge (entire tool is hardened) pulls down so it doesn't lift.
I'm not sure if using one on each side is a good idea or not. I am only familiar with the basics of what it does..
vid is uploaded , and processing now... about 34 minutes
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How do I get the video?
 
Janderso said:
I have a set of these but I don't know how they work.
Would you please explain/show us how to use these tapered vise helpers??
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To add to @woodchucker 's description, video & photos, I've attached a document I put together from a number of sources after I purchased a pair of Starrett 54's (6") at Cabin Fever last year for $30 and subsequently found a pair of 54A's (4") on eBay for $27; both sets like new in box. I have used the 4" ones once (but I have other tools I haven't used [yet:)]).
 

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  • Starrett 54 Hold Downs rfs.pdf
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ChazzC said:
To add to @woodchucker 's description, video & photos, I've attached a document I put together from a number of sources after I purchased a pair of Starrett 54's (6") at Cabin Fever last year for $30 and subsequently found a pair of 54A's (4") on eBay for $27; both sets like new in box. I have used the 4" ones once (but I have other tools I haven't used [yet:)]).
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Thanks, so you do use both at once. Good to know. I would think it's proper to support them where they hit the jaw, so that they are level, so they pull down, rather than toward the side.

But a good article.
 
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