- Joined
- May 3, 2020
- Messages
- 378
Conditioning stones are available but they won't produce a lapped finish. They only polish off the burs. I would recommend a set of precision-ground flat stones. They are of general use around the shop. There are tricks to using them so watch some videos.I read that Mitutoyo recommends their Cerastone for gauge blocks and also running the stone across the surface plate. I looked and these stones are somewhat expensive, ~250.00. Is there less expensive options? Recommendations for a deburring stone that I can use on the gauge blocks?
Are these the same as ceramic water stones? I can get a 15,000 ceramic water stone for half that price.
Precision ground flat stones are prepared so that the abrasive particles are flat on the surface. The cutting action of the stone is more of a shearing mode. When you press the stone onto the metal, the nicks and burs experience massive pressure, forcing them into the gaps between the abrasive particles. With motion, the metal shears off. The flat side of the abrasive particles skate over the surface, doing no damage.
I am not sure this is correct. You are right about developing a flat surface with the 3-plate method. However, the condition of the abrasive particles on the surface is critical and the 3-plate method does not deal with that. Grinding a stone flat is only the starting point. The abrasive particles must be cut so they form a flat surface, without tearing them out of the matrix. It's not an easy project, even if you already own a surface grinder. Just dressing a diamond wheel is a challenge, from what I hear. Perhaps it could be done with some Atoma diamond plates but it will be a varsity level project no matter how you approach it. I recommend buying a set of stones.You can make your own precision ground stones using the 3 plate method