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- Jan 2, 2019
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- 7,299
Nah, it just looked too much like mine for me to let it go. Hope he gives us both a break as passionate folks who just want to help....
John
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Twist in my bed
- Thread starter Pevehouse
- Start date
John
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2017
- Messages
- 167
My thoughts and suggestions
The stand looks to be younger than the lathe. In fact, it looks a lot like the stand under my Enco 13x40 from roughly 2005. I consider my stand to be fairly flimsy, based on looks and sheet metal thickness. (I have plans to build a proper stiff stand… someday.). Maybe yours is heavier stuff.
I like those angle iron rails with adjustable feet. As long as you don’t hurt yourself on those sharp tips.
I’d use the adjustable feet to “flatten the floor”. Use a level to make the frame rails parallel to each other and in effect place the lathe stand on a flat floor. Once “flat” I’d stop messing with the adjustable feet.
Then I’d do the 2-collar test, etc., and shim the tailstock end of the lathe bed in the usual manner. That means pulling out the silicon you put in there, but that’s easy to replace after the machine cuts true.
The stand looks to be younger than the lathe. In fact, it looks a lot like the stand under my Enco 13x40 from roughly 2005. I consider my stand to be fairly flimsy, based on looks and sheet metal thickness. (I have plans to build a proper stiff stand… someday.). Maybe yours is heavier stuff.
I like those angle iron rails with adjustable feet. As long as you don’t hurt yourself on those sharp tips.
I’d use the adjustable feet to “flatten the floor”. Use a level to make the frame rails parallel to each other and in effect place the lathe stand on a flat floor. Once “flat” I’d stop messing with the adjustable feet.
Then I’d do the 2-collar test, etc., and shim the tailstock end of the lathe bed in the usual manner. That means pulling out the silicon you put in there, but that’s easy to replace after the machine cuts true.
Maybe level the stand best you can , loosen the mounting hardware lathe to stand and see how it cuts.
From what I have been learning is the smaller lathes are not “leveled/way twist by the feet like on the large lathes.
Heck with the lathe mounts very loose you might be able to “see” the twist in the ways by a corner coming up off the bench a little?
Took me a bit to get the level vs twist thing.
My bed/ways are a solid piece of steel and I cant seem to get the twist out of my lathe with shims? Im cutting slightly larger at the tail stock end than the chuck side.
Im not making anything super critical where I cant compensate a bit. I have shimmed the right front mount but made no measurable difference. I might plug another shim under there and see.
From what I have been learning is the smaller lathes are not “leveled/way twist by the feet like on the large lathes.
Heck with the lathe mounts very loose you might be able to “see” the twist in the ways by a corner coming up off the bench a little?
Took me a bit to get the level vs twist thing.
My bed/ways are a solid piece of steel and I cant seem to get the twist out of my lathe with shims? Im cutting slightly larger at the tail stock end than the chuck side.
Im not making anything super critical where I cant compensate a bit. I have shimmed the right front mount but made no measurable difference. I might plug another shim under there and see.
The only stock I have and I think this may work out great is an old LS camshaft. Should be straight and I could use the journals, not the lobes as my collars. They measure over 2”. I do have some runout. Should I use a 4 jaw and indicate it or true it in the three jaw before my test?
I painted the stand with automotive paint. Basecoat clearcoat before I set it back up.lol. It may still be younger. Just the way i got it
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2012
- Messages
- 833
In 1980's there was some lathes from China that was ship strieght after getting here for few months the bed would twisted. Machines dealers would have to refund. Then they hard time selling twisted lathes. Great lathes at low price.
I do not know what happened thus group of lathe or even the brand.
By time saw lathe ad the brand name was removed
Dave
As long as the lobes dont interfere with the cut and you dont have to much stick out. You might have to just do what I did and buy some material.
I finally rounded up what I need to make a test bar with aluminum collars
As for 3 or 4 jaw ?
I am doing mine with 3 jaw as I will use that the most?
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2020
- Messages
- 1,253
I promise I'm not being picky, but it's not clear from your comments that you know how the two collar test works. Have you watched any of the videos on how it's done, or read a description of the process?
The chuck doesn't matter. You're going to put a piece of stock in the chuck and secured to a live center in the tailstock. At that point you will turn the length of it at least making a skim cut. At that point the piece is aligned with the spindle properly so there won't be any runout. You then make a relief cut in the middle section so the tool won't be cutting through that section and wearing as it goes. Then you put a fresh insert in your turning tool, or a fresh edge on a HSS tool. You'll make a light cut on both high spots/collars and measure the difference with a micrometer between the two. You'll then know how much taper you're getting.
I honestly don't know why someone would put that angle iron frame around the cabinet...there's really no need for it and I can't see how it would be particularly rigid.
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