- Joined
- Jul 29, 2014
- Messages
- 2,847
This is crazy. You need all that stuff, and then start another list.
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
tools needed for the home machinist with a lathe and milling machine
- Thread starter ARC-170
- Start date
As mentioned many times above.
Buy ONLY the tools needed for the work that you do, no more and no less.
I have worked full time as a general machinist for 30 years in job shops, mostly small part runs <2000. But many 1 to 50 part jobs with a vast assortment of features and sizes.
I have collected over the years the following tools as the need warranted, never because I MAY NEED IT.
Rigid rules: 6,12, 18, 24, and 36" lengths, anything over this the shop owns or should own. I rarely use the rules above 18"
Several squares
1"-6" outside micrometers, Used weekly
.4- 6" dial bore gauges, anything over 6" and under .4" the shop owns or should own. I do a good deal of precision bore work. All used weekly
6, 8, 12, 24" calipers, anything over this the shop owns or should own, all but the 24" are used weekly
1" and 2" travel drop indicators with .001" divisions, used everyday
1" drop indicator with .0001" divisions, used rarely
3" dial drop indicator with .001" divisions, this is easy to read when it is 5 feet away on a large part, not used very often
Lever indicator with .0005" divisions, used often
A Noga magnetic base indicator holder that is 30" tall because I sometimes turn 35" diameter parts, you will almost certainly never need this
Run of the mill magnetic indicator bases that are 12" tall, used everyday
Depth micrometer, used often
Internal groove width micrometer because I produce a good number internal retaining ring grooves, you will not likely need one of these
Telescoping gauges, used often
Thread wires, use these often
Thread pitch gauges, I have never owned radius gauges however, I rarely use the thread gauges
A vernier scale protractor, you will likely never need such a tool, someone gave it to me
An 8" long redbox precision spirit level that I bought new for 1 job, it has not been used for 20+ years
V Blocks of various sizes, which I rarely use
Do not buy what you do not need
Buy ONLY the tools needed for the work that you do, no more and no less.
I have worked full time as a general machinist for 30 years in job shops, mostly small part runs <2000. But many 1 to 50 part jobs with a vast assortment of features and sizes.
I have collected over the years the following tools as the need warranted, never because I MAY NEED IT.
Rigid rules: 6,12, 18, 24, and 36" lengths, anything over this the shop owns or should own. I rarely use the rules above 18"
Several squares
1"-6" outside micrometers, Used weekly
.4- 6" dial bore gauges, anything over 6" and under .4" the shop owns or should own. I do a good deal of precision bore work. All used weekly
6, 8, 12, 24" calipers, anything over this the shop owns or should own, all but the 24" are used weekly
1" and 2" travel drop indicators with .001" divisions, used everyday
1" drop indicator with .0001" divisions, used rarely
3" dial drop indicator with .001" divisions, this is easy to read when it is 5 feet away on a large part, not used very often
Lever indicator with .0005" divisions, used often
A Noga magnetic base indicator holder that is 30" tall because I sometimes turn 35" diameter parts, you will almost certainly never need this
Run of the mill magnetic indicator bases that are 12" tall, used everyday
Depth micrometer, used often
Internal groove width micrometer because I produce a good number internal retaining ring grooves, you will not likely need one of these
Telescoping gauges, used often
Thread wires, use these often
Thread pitch gauges, I have never owned radius gauges however, I rarely use the thread gauges
A vernier scale protractor, you will likely never need such a tool, someone gave it to me
An 8" long redbox precision spirit level that I bought new for 1 job, it has not been used for 20+ years
V Blocks of various sizes, which I rarely use
Do not buy what you do not need
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2016
- Messages
- 4,117
I think it is a great idea to have a list so you can buy what you will need... soon... when things are on sale, and maybe spend a tiny bit more and buy 'better' quality' Mitutoyo always has a winter sale that puts them closer (er) to the mid-priced competitors...
That being said, and to echo everyone else, all this is dependent on the work you choose to do - if you tire of the hobby, you'll be glad of all the stuff you 'didn't' buy, having to sell it a 1/3 the purchase price.
Some feedback on your list.
Rockwell tester? nah. even professional shops sometimes don't have one.
Granite surface plate? yes, if you will be doing work under a thou or 2... Busy Bee tools and Lee Valley sell affordable ones
that work just fine for a home shop. I'm sure that you can find a discount SP cheaply in your jurisdiction
Deburring: I have a NOGA deburring set and an offshore one. Get the Offshore one for 1/5 the price until you really need a better one
Anti-fatigue mat: personal preference.
6" ruler: you can 'live' with a really cheap one - but - if you really get into it, you'll need one that reads in tenths/100ths, and that will $$
Dial test indicator: there is no such thing as a 'cheap' one - what I meas is don't waste your money. 36 years ago I bought a
.0005 indicator that I've used a LOT, and it is still going. Last year I bought a Mit .0001 test indicator for a project that needed it.
- you HAVE to believe your measuring instruments. They are the last word you are doing the right thing.
Scriber: I use an offshore carbide scriber, and find it works fine, and cost like 3 bucks...
Radius Gauge set: I fillet and round off corners bu hand work a lot. I like to file to a dimension, so I use one.
1-2-3 block: I have a couple of offshore sets, and they have worked for me for 30+ years. Your results may vary.
Feeler gauges: I have a set... somewhere... I dont think I've used them.
Height gauge: I have a cheap offshore one. Measured against a 3000$ B&S one. they measure within .001 of each other.
I have to remember to take the battery out each time I'm done with it. easy.
Brass hammer: Mine is a very small one, about 5 or 6 ounces. If you need to really hit something use a hunk of brass and a big hammer.
Auto center punch. Never owned one.
Now for unsolicited advice:
--- Get a good 0-1 Micrometer. A name brand that will last your lifetime. Bigger ones will be used a lot less frequently.
--- Get a good vernier caliper. I use two Igaging ones, (horror: not Mitutoyo?) which have served me well.
Don't buy anything in the above list until there is something you cannot do without it.
When you can anticipate the need, look ahead at sales, and buy a little better than you think you should.
Name brands have better longevity and resale value.
That being said, and to echo everyone else, all this is dependent on the work you choose to do - if you tire of the hobby, you'll be glad of all the stuff you 'didn't' buy, having to sell it a 1/3 the purchase price.
Some feedback on your list.
Rockwell tester? nah. even professional shops sometimes don't have one.
Granite surface plate? yes, if you will be doing work under a thou or 2... Busy Bee tools and Lee Valley sell affordable ones
that work just fine for a home shop. I'm sure that you can find a discount SP cheaply in your jurisdiction
Deburring: I have a NOGA deburring set and an offshore one. Get the Offshore one for 1/5 the price until you really need a better one
Anti-fatigue mat: personal preference.
6" ruler: you can 'live' with a really cheap one - but - if you really get into it, you'll need one that reads in tenths/100ths, and that will $$
Dial test indicator: there is no such thing as a 'cheap' one - what I meas is don't waste your money. 36 years ago I bought a
.0005 indicator that I've used a LOT, and it is still going. Last year I bought a Mit .0001 test indicator for a project that needed it.
- you HAVE to believe your measuring instruments. They are the last word you are doing the right thing.
Scriber: I use an offshore carbide scriber, and find it works fine, and cost like 3 bucks...
Radius Gauge set: I fillet and round off corners bu hand work a lot. I like to file to a dimension, so I use one.
1-2-3 block: I have a couple of offshore sets, and they have worked for me for 30+ years. Your results may vary.
Feeler gauges: I have a set... somewhere... I dont think I've used them.
Height gauge: I have a cheap offshore one. Measured against a 3000$ B&S one. they measure within .001 of each other.
I have to remember to take the battery out each time I'm done with it. easy.
Brass hammer: Mine is a very small one, about 5 or 6 ounces. If you need to really hit something use a hunk of brass and a big hammer.
Auto center punch. Never owned one.
Now for unsolicited advice:
--- Get a good 0-1 Micrometer. A name brand that will last your lifetime. Bigger ones will be used a lot less frequently.
--- Get a good vernier caliper. I use two Igaging ones, (horror: not Mitutoyo?) which have served me well.
Don't buy anything in the above list until there is something you cannot do without it.
When you can anticipate the need, look ahead at sales, and buy a little better than you think you should.
Name brands have better longevity and resale value.
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2017
- Messages
- 5,595
Personally I don't get the cringe at getting used. I see some incredible collections of tools in the LA basin. I doubt very many places have this many guys retiring with nice collections of quality tools that are often well cared for. And when I go I take my 1" and 2" gages with me to check stuff.
Pawn shops are worthless IMHO. Over priced. Dealing with relatives of the diseased is usually stupid as they have no clue and are usually wanting new prices for stuff. Like I said everybody's work is different. Like today I was using my import tapping hand machine I got from LMS. It was $130? and worth every penny as I've tapped over 100+ holes since I bought that. Not broken a single tap(knock on wood) since I got it. i personally love my prick punch too and find it way more accurate than my hammer and punch, which i usually use as my second operation if I need a pronounced punch mark. To each his own.
Pawn shops are worthless IMHO. Over priced. Dealing with relatives of the diseased is usually stupid as they have no clue and are usually wanting new prices for stuff. Like I said everybody's work is different. Like today I was using my import tapping hand machine I got from LMS. It was $130? and worth every penny as I've tapped over 100+ holes since I bought that. Not broken a single tap(knock on wood) since I got it. i personally love my prick punch too and find it way more accurate than my hammer and punch, which i usually use as my second operation if I need a pronounced punch mark. To each his own.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2016
- Messages
- 3,333
Part of my slacking is trying to trim it down to something a bit less overwhelming. On the other hand these tools don't live in a vacuum, bandsaws, grinders, drill presses etc are legitimate suggestions that will make your life easier but probably too much for a starting list.
Perhaps laid out providing some order of importance. Rock bottom really need from the beginning escalating to nice to have tools, and finally the specialty and luxury tools which can definitely wait until you actually have a need for them.
My post came out of constantly bumping up against tools I didn't expect to need. Luckily I already had a good set of basic tools, wrenches, drivers etc so some I had on hand but many of the auxiliary tools, bench grinder and bandsaw in particular were pretty close to essential and I hadn't factored in their need.
Sure you don't "need" a bandsaw, but the first time I cut a 1 1/2" steel bar with a hack saw, the band saw went from nice to have, to go get one as soon as the next HF 25% off coupon comes out.
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2014
- Messages
- 438
I'm not a machinist, just a hobbyist who works with metal. Radius gauges are something that are pooh poohed. I've found them necessary a couple of times and handy a few more times. Mine are just a cheap set, but I'm sure happy that I had them. At the price I paid, it was a why not.
I bought some telescoping gauges from Princess Auto, at a sale price. Harbor Freight likely sells the same sort of ones. Man, they were gritty, after oiling and working them, they were useable. . But when I needed them, I had them. Later, I did get a good Japanese set in a tool purchase. I also got some Starretts as well in that purchase.
I bought some telescoping gauges from Princess Auto, at a sale price. Harbor Freight likely sells the same sort of ones. Man, they were gritty, after oiling and working them, they were useable. . But when I needed them, I had them. Later, I did get a good Japanese set in a tool purchase. I also got some Starretts as well in that purchase.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2014
- Messages
- 4,092
I find that i have about 25 Pill bottles with small drill bits, I buy them by the 1/2 dozen, (I buy the drills, the pill bottle are free with pills,) all under .100 in diameter, but thats because of the work I do.
I have at each tooling station, Lathe, Mill, drill press, a couple Starett drill chart cards, and one (or more) Harbor Freight $9.99 (with coupon) Pittsburgh Digital 6" calipers. (also have batteries on hand for them buy the dirt cheap online). Also a wooden block with the 9 smallest size Allen wrenches, one at each machine, and a couple of spare blocks. Also small drill tubes with 4-40 and 5-40 body drill, tap drill and taps.
I have at each tooling station, Lathe, Mill, drill press, a couple Starett drill chart cards, and one (or more) Harbor Freight $9.99 (with coupon) Pittsburgh Digital 6" calipers. (also have batteries on hand for them buy the dirt cheap online). Also a wooden block with the 9 smallest size Allen wrenches, one at each machine, and a couple of spare blocks. Also small drill tubes with 4-40 and 5-40 body drill, tap drill and taps.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2018
- Messages
- 73
Hi Arc,
Definitely a comprehensive list.
Here's a couple of notes:
Definitely get a granite surface plate. I use an offcut granite square that I got for free from a client. It is obviously not AS flat as the expensive one but it is good enough for me.
Pen and paper: Sharpie markers. In stead of paper, you can use a piece of glass.
The sharpies work well on glass and won't wipe off like whiteboard markers. When you do want to clean the glass - give it a squirt with some brake or parts cleaner. The one I use evaporates quickly without leaving any residue at all and cleans the glass perfectly. Probably similar to acetone.
Feeler guages are pretty handy - I also use an automotive set that I took apart.
Brass hammer - I made a small one years ago and I use it a LOT.
Definitely a comprehensive list.
Here's a couple of notes:
Definitely get a granite surface plate. I use an offcut granite square that I got for free from a client. It is obviously not AS flat as the expensive one but it is good enough for me.
Pen and paper: Sharpie markers. In stead of paper, you can use a piece of glass.
The sharpies work well on glass and won't wipe off like whiteboard markers. When you do want to clean the glass - give it a squirt with some brake or parts cleaner. The one I use evaporates quickly without leaving any residue at all and cleans the glass perfectly. Probably similar to acetone.
Feeler guages are pretty handy - I also use an automotive set that I took apart.
Brass hammer - I made a small one years ago and I use it a LOT.
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2016
- Messages
- 13,241
After reading this and the other " linked thread " , it's NO WONDER my garage , 2 basements , and shop look as they do . 
All I intended to do was to fix a tractor back in "79 , and now look ! 
I did not see one very important ( indispensable ) tool needed for high precision work . A BFH . Works well with light assembly work and also as your throwing object when things go haywire .
All I intended to do was to fix a tractor back in "79 , and now look ! I did not see one very important ( indispensable ) tool needed for high precision work . A BFH . Works well with light assembly work and also as your throwing object when things go haywire .
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2017
- Messages
- 5,595
I'm ready to make dies for my bead roller and Planishing hammer and radius gages are essential. There would be no way to do it accurately otherwise. I guess it's a good thing they are pooh poohed because I was able to pick up a basically new Starrett set off eBay for less than a new import set!
Similar threads
