The Voron kit build thread

You guys have to recalibrate your Z offset when switching between ABS and PLA?

I've been printing ABS, and yesterday switch to PLA on the Voron. I had to recalibrate the Z endstop to get the PLA to stick. Before recalibrating, it was just dragging around a glob.

After printing PLA awhile, I forgot to recalibrate and when i started printing ABS again, the nozzle was just barely touching the bed, without enough gap for the ABS to leave the nozzle. I had to recalibrate again.

With my Flashforge, it seemed to use the same offset for a 110c bed as for a 55c bed. The Voron bed seems to expand up and fill about .2mm going from 55c to 110c. That seems a little much.

Using the coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum, it should only expand max, about .002mm for a 55c \



Edit: I did the calculations using .000023mm per mm per degree times 55c delta temp, and came up with .0101mm of change. So, yea, I'll have to do a bed mesh, or further loosen 3 of the screws that hold down the bed. It must be bowing a little when it heats up. 55c shouldn't swell it enough to fill the .2mm gap i have it calibrate for.

I may consider doing a mod to mount the bed the way my flashforge is, with springs to allow for expansion without bowing.
 
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On my Prusa at ABS temperatures the nozzle appeared to be higher than at PLA temperatures causing adhesion problems. This problem does not occur between PLA and PETG setups, and PETG bed temperatures are nearly as high as ABS. I have not tried to figure it out, just made the observation. Wondering about the belt temperature coefficients and effects on belt tension. Are the Z belts actual high temperature Gates or clones? The Prusa does a bed mesh and temperature compensates the inductive sensor, but perhaps this compensation isn't well calibrated on my Prusa when the enclosure is added. The enclosure was only on for ABS testing.

There are kinematic mounts for the printbed that float the bed without depending on springs. There are also spherical bearings for the 2.4 Gantry.

The new Voron Tap setup measures actual nozzle contact with the bed. This does not work with a spring mounted bed. There has been a lot of testing with Tap and they learned a lot about these issues. The Tap Discord channel might be a good place to learn more and discuss findings.
 
the belts are marked "Gates Power grip GT 2LL-2gtrf 22422 sc 12003

Not sure about the temp ratings

Playing with it this morning, im thinking the results yesterday were related to spooging PLA drooling out of the nozzle. re-calibrating today with a clean nozzle and not seeing any issue.

I'll just have to be careful when switching between filaments.
 
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Well, I pre-checked the 5V from the Octopus, loaded MainsailOS on the SD card, fired up the Pi4-2 on the Trident, did the updates, put in the LDO trident printer config file, uncommented various parts, setup, made and programmed the Octopus with klipper. It seems to be working, but of course it errors out on the hotend thermistor since that's not installed yet. But lots of progress there. The printhead is still sitting on the desk, have some more work on it to do, then install and finalize the remainder of the wiring. Looking good so far!
 
AlanB said:
Well, I pre-checked the 5V from the Octopus, loaded MainsailOS on the SD card, fired up the Pi4-2 on the Trident, did the updates, put in the LDO trident printer config file, uncommented various parts, setup, made and programmed the Octopus with klipper. It seems to be working, but of course it errors out on the hotend thermistor since that's not installed yet. But lots of progress there. The printhead is still sitting on the desk, have some more work on it to do, then install and finalize the remainder of the wiring. Looking good so far!
Click to expand...

Are you running Mainsail OS, or the Mainsail web interface on Raspberry Pi OS? I'm curious about Mainsail OS. I've considered buying another Orange PI just to play around with and try some different operating systems.
 
I've seen Raspberry Pi 4B 2GB models every day or two from various sources including Adafruit had some this morning.

I loaded MailsailOS using Raspberry Pi Imager. It is Raspbian with the various Klipper packages pre-loaded.

I just now plugged in the BTT 4.3 DSI display and it works. It just shows Pi stuff at this point, another thing I could work on is to load the KlipperScreen and get that working.
 
What a rollercoaster. A few commands, many minutes of automated downloading, building, configuring and installing, and KlipperScreen comes up! And the touchscreen works!! Impressive! No fuss, no muss.

1672368274085.png
 
Progress. I temporarily hooked up the printhead cable and put in the jumpers and hotend temperature sensor and now Klipper doesn't error out. I heated the bed and hotend temperature sensor and the proper readout increased. I haven't figured out where the chamber temperature is but it must be on the toolhead PCB. Found it. It looks like a surface mount capacitor, labelled CT near the connectors on the edge of the board away from the main toolhead cable jack, between one of the mounting holes and the connector for the Hot End Fan.

1672377030047.png
 
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Had a little scare.. Left the Trident on awhile (the heaters are not connected so not much risk) and when I looked over the screen was blank, then white, then cycled through colors, looked like it was broken. Turns out this is apparently a screen saver. Touched it and Klipperscreen came back on. Another feature I had not heard about.

On a separate note, was going through the various menus and saw an error "shutdown due to webhooks". While this isn't a great error message, this is what happens when you hit the estop. This is a prominent icon on the touch screen, hopefully it doesn't get bumped inadvertently during a print. I would like to see a physical estop button on a 3d printer, but something that is easy to bump on a touch screen could be a liability, and not really a sufficient solution for estopping purposes compared to a physical estop switch.

I set up Mainsail to receive files from PrusaSlicer. Works like Octoprint except it doesn't require a special authentication key. Still have some wiring to work on before it will be ready to print...
 
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AlanB said:
Had a little scare.. Left the Trident on awhile (the heaters are not connected so not much risk) and when I looked over the screen was blank, then white, then cycled through colors, looked like it was broken. Turns out this is apparently a screen saver. Touched it and Klipperscreen came back on. Another feature I had not heard about.

On a separate note, was going through the various menus and saw an error "shutdown due to webhooks". While this isn't a great error message, this is what happens when you hit the estop. This is a prominent icon on the touch screen, hopefully it doesn't get bumped inadvertently during a print. I would like to see a physical estop button on a 3d printer, but something that is easy to bump on a touch screen could be a liability, and not really a sufficient solution for estopping purposes compared to a physical estop switch.

I set up Mainsail to receive files from PrusaSlicer. Works like Octoprint except it doesn't require a special authentication key. Still have some wiring to work on before it will be ready to print...
Click to expand...

The liba-whatsit update package thing I did for the crowsnest/webcam also seemed to take care of the earlier touchscreen issue I was having a, but after a few weeks running it from my laptop and phone, I opted to keep the mini12864 display rather than the touchscreen.

It's more lo-profile less likely to get bumped or inadvertantly button pushed by someone brushing past it.

Plus, it has a physical estop. I e already used it a few times when prints came loose from the bed.

It's much, much quicker that getting through the screensaver, login pin, then hitting stop in the web browser.

It's small, and just below the rotary knob, but easy to push quick. And very unlikely to get inadvertently pushed.
 
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