The Voron kit build thread

[Ken226]

Ouch, 0.3mm plus or minus is awful. The recommended switches in the BOM should be adequate.

I think mine is one of those listed in the BOM. Maybe I got a lemon switch.

The Omron proximity probe used for bed leveling seems very accurate.

Is there any reason I couldn't make a steel block to mount in place of the Z endstop switch, and change the config file to use the Omron probe pin/ signal as the Z endstop as well as for levelling?

It would eliminate the possibility of losing accuracy due to filament drooling out of the nozzle as well.

 

[AlanB]

The purpose of the Z switch is to home the z axis and compensate for nozzle length. It should be done at 150C to squish out any plastic. But it's not the only way to home the Z axis. Some methods compensate for nozzle length and some do not.

You could just skip the Z switch and use the omron on the bed for Z. That's what the Prusa MK3 does and it works quite well. The final height goes from there and applies an offset that you tune. Just have to find a macro that works that way. It won't automatically compensate for nozzle length, so when you change nozzles you'll have to readjust the offset.

 

[Ken226]

My own research is indicating that the accuracy of the Voron Z microswitch should be plenty for this application.

I'm going to do some further testing and inspection of the switch, and disassemble/reassemble both my Stealthburner and the switch to make sure everything is tight enough.

I'll run the z up and down over the switch a few dozen times while running some query_endstops commands to see how repeatable it actually is.

A new switch is only about 7$ on Amazon, so I ordered another one. I'll either need it, or have a spare.

 

[AlanB]

Other very popular, simple and inexpensive options are the Voron Klicky, Euclid or Un-Klicky. This LDO kit included both the Klicky and the Z probe, as well as the Omron inductive sensor.

I keep hearing that the switches wear out after a time, so having a spare is prudent. Accuracy usually improves with lower speed, most macros seem to use multiple passes with lower speeds at the final to improve accuracy. I suspect it is very likely some lower quality switches get into the supply chain.

It might be worth ordering the switches from Digikey rather than Amazon. The supply chain is more reliable.

 

[Ken226]

@7milesup and @AlanB

I just wanted to report a pretty big breakthrough in my Z end stop woes.

I saw a post somewhere, one some website about these things with multiple people complaining about the same issue. There was one reply in the thread I noticed that everyone else seemed to ignore as they were spitballing ideas back and forth. Noone seemed to even notice his post.

Anyway, the recommendation was to "stress relieve" the gantry. Since its common to get a little misalignment when torquing the M5x40 gantry screws; the ones that go under, and upward to hold the gantry corners to the gantry end parts. The recommendation was to heat the bed and extruder to operation temps, then crack those four m5x40 screws loose and run several homing and quad gantry levelling sequences.

Then after running several homing and quad gantry level sequences several times, run the toolhead to center (150mm on X, Y, and Z for me), and torque torque the four M5x40 screws back down. I guess, to re-lock the gantry corners to the Z linear rails while its all level.

Well, the proof is in the pudding. No more limit switch issues. It's repeating to pretty much dead nuts now. The inductive probe seems to be achieving lever on the first try now, every time.

Those numbers are mm, btw.

 

[7milesup]

That is awesome @Ken226. Do you happen to know what forum/website you saw that on? Just curious.

 

[AlanB]

Great Progress.

I put together a Repbox today. Humidity controlled box for feeding rolls of filament. Lots of options for feeding in different directions. Looks like it will just fit on the shelf I have above the printer. It will hold 6 or 7 of the 1kg reels. They show it here with smaller reels. They have lots of options including wall mounting, LEDs, etc.

 

[Ken226]

That is awesome @Ken226. Do you happen to know what forum/website you saw that on? Just curious.

No. I even went back and tried to find it before I posted the results here, in case someone asked.

I couldn't find it.

 

[Ken226]

Great Progress.

I put together a Repbox today. Humidity controlled box for feeding rolls of filament. Lots of options for feeding in different directions. Looks like it will just fit on the shelf I have above the printer. It will hold 6 or 7 of the 1kg reels. They show it here with smaller reels. They have lots of options including wall mounting, LEDs, etc.

View attachment 428767

Damn...!

I want one of those. Whether I need it or not.

 

[Ken226]

It's running like a champ now! The Orange Pi was a good call.


I have a set of these hinges printing.

Door Hinges

Voron 2.4 Hinge Mod for 3mm Doors with 3mm Foam This is designed for 3mm door panels with 3mm of foam. I used the laser cut panels from Printed Solid which are 3.175 (1/8") and the foam tape from Amazon. They are design to fit Misumi extrusions. If the width of your extrusion is not the same, you...

www.teamfdm.com

I'll finish up the front doors tomorrow.

My test cubes are hitting the dimensions, close enough for my tastes.


These cubes were run at 120mm/s. Double the speed my Flashforge runs at.