Tap organization

[ChazzC]

Those are Dymo Letratag papee labels.

How do the paper labels hold up? The Casio uses thin plastic labels that are durable, but depending on the adhesive (it changes every time I get the same aftermarket labels) it can be a ***** getting the residue off when I want to replace a label. Also, the 18mm width (come in 6, 9, 12 & 18mm) allows for three lines:

 

[Batmanacw]

How do the paper labels hold up? The Casio uses thin plastic labels that are durable, but depending on the adhesive (it changes every time I get the same aftermarket labels) it can be a ***** getting the residue off when I want to replace a label. Also, the 18mm width (come in 6, 9, 12 & 18mm) allows for three lines:

View attachment 492891

The paper labels have been fine. I've got thousands of them in the shop and I've never had one fail.

 

[David2011]

How do the paper labels hold up? The Casio uses thin plastic labels that are durable, but depending on the adhesive (it changes every time I get the same aftermarket labels) it can be a ***** getting the residue off when I want to replace a label. Also, the 18mm width (come in 6, 9, 12 & 18mm) allows for three lines:

View attachment 492891

If mineral spirits won’t get the adhesive residue off, rubber cement thinner almost always works. It’s not cheap but it’s made for that type of adhesive. As a bonus, it’s safe to use on just about any substrate. It doesn’t damage plastics like other solvents will. Don’t leave the lid off if you get some. It will evaporate very quickly.

 

[David2011]

I really like YG-1 - same quality as the others at a lower price. All the taps I've ordered from McMaster in the last few years have been Widia - another solid brand.

GsT

I’ve been very pleased with YG-1 and Kodiak which is American made. Both are very good and not terribly expensive. Both are available on Amazon.

Lost my Dad about 3 years ago and finally took the taps and dies from his storage shed. After he retired he worked at an industrial supply company and collected a nice assortment of Butterfield 3 tap sets and spiral point taps. Most look unused. It’s comforting having a few of his things to use.

Around 1978 I bought a 1/4”-1/2” set of Vermont American tap and dies. They’re just “OK.” Not bad but even when new they weren’t stellar. They’ve always required excessive force compared to name brand taps and dies but they have held up well. Over the years I’ve threaded 6-32 through 10-24/10-32 much more than larger sizes so they didn’t get a lot of use. Until just a few days ago I still had the complete set. I broke the 7/16-20 die power threading 416 stainless on the lathe. A set is a good starting point; replace them with better individually as needed.

 

[woodchucker]

If mineral spirits won’t get the adhesive residue off, rubber cement thinner almost always works. It’s not cheap but it’s made for that type of adhesive. As a bonus, it’s safe to use on just about any substrate. It doesn’t damage plastics like other solvents will. Don’t leave the lid off if you get some. It will evaporate very quickly.

actually naptha (ronson lighter fluid) is one of the best adhesive removers. Much better than MS. But don't have any open flames.

 

[woodchucker]

I’ve been very pleased with YG-1 and Kodiak which is American made. Both are very good and not terribly expensive. Both are available on Amazon.

Lost my Dad about 3 years ago and finally took the taps and dies from his storage shed. After he retired he worked at an industrial supply company and collected a nice assortment of Butterfield 3 tap sets and spiral point taps. Most look unused. It’s comforting having a few of his things to use.

Around 1978 I bought a 1/4”-1/2” set of Vermont American tap and dies. They’re just “OK.” Not bad but even when new they weren’t stellar. They’ve always required excessive force compared to name brand taps and dies but they have held up well. Over the years I’ve threaded 6-32 through 10-24/10-32 much more than larger sizes so they didn’t get a lot of use. Until just a few days ago I still had the complete set. I broke the 7/16-20 die power threading 416 stainless on the lathe. A set is a good starting point; replace them with better individually as needed.

I agree, I gave my old made in Japan set to my son, I bought a HF set. It fills in on the taps/dies I don't have. Mostly rarely used metric. I also chase with them rather than use them for new cutting.

I acquired quite a collection of new/used taps from machinist lots. It's what got me into the high quality taps. I rarely will order a low grade tap UNLESS I know it's a 1 and done in AL, or a free cutting material. But I order Guhring generally. My first taps from them I found on ebay directly from them. Much less than what MSC was selling them. They were shipped directly from Guhring and UPS returned them as address undeliverable.. Guhring resent them (that was nice of them)... I have been loyal to them ever since. I have not seen them on ebay again, so wound up paying the higher prices. I have many different made in USA and Japan taps. I have yet to give some of the newer trusted brands a try.
I have akro mill bins also for my taps. Some of my drawers hold multiple sizes.

My most commonly used sizes are 6-32 to 3/8 -16.. I made a holder like Mr Pete's, and it's great It gives me the drill, tap, bottoming tap, close clearance holes.. So glad I made it. I just replace the taps in it as they wear.

Going shopping , what color nail polish should I buy :-)

I had to mark my end mills first. I have a few counterclock wise end mills.. And I would always burn them up trying to cut clockwise. After a few of those, I painted them red with dykem... but dykem comes off, so I started using the Testors model stuff. but again, no brush, so you had to clean a...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[David2011]

actually naptha (ronson lighter fluid) is one of the best adhesive removers. Much better than MS. But don't have any open flames.

I've used lighter fluid and charcoal lighter fluid as well with good results. It's a very clean solvent. There is no one best adhesive remover IMO. It depends totally on the adhesive that you're dealing with. For adhesive labels, rubber cement thinner is targeted specifically at that adhesive but others will work reasonably well at a lower cost. I used to remove grease pencil marks from photo contact sheets with rubber cement thinner after people selected which pictures they wanted me to print. It didn't hurt the photos. You're right about the open flames or any ignition source. If it will remove adhesive label residue, it's probably flammable.

 

[ChazzC]

I've used lighter fluid and charcoal lighter fluid as well with good results. It's a very clean solvent. There is no one best adhesive remover IMO. It depends totally on the adhesive that you're dealing with. For adhesive labels, rubber cement thinner is targeted specifically at that adhesive but others will work reasonably well at a lower cost. I used to remove grease pencil marks from photo contact sheets with rubber cement thinner after people selected which pictures they wanted me to print. It didn't hurt the photos. You're right about the open flames or any ignition source. If it will remove adhesive label residue, it's probably flammable.

I’ll give Naptha a try, and I just remembered I have a can of 3M adhesive remover (cleans up residue from glued-on auto body trim (and their transfer tapes):

 

[David2011]

The 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner has lots of good solvents. Toluene is a component, at least was when I was a kid, in Testor’s plastic cement so it may not be safe for plastics.

It’s been 40 years since I used xylene; don’t remember how hot it is as a solvent. I used it in my side business of lettering boats to remove the residue from old vinyl graphics and it worked well for that, even on boats that had been in the water and exposed to the Texas sun for 10 years. That’s a pretty good test. It’s less toxic than many solvents. The 3M product would probably have been better. Wish I had known about it.

 

[ChazzC]

The 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner has lots of good solvents. Toluene is a component, at least was when I was a kid, in Testor’s plastic cement so it may not be safe for plastics.

It’s been 40 years since I used xylene; don’t remember how hot it is as a solvent. I used it in my side business of lettering boats to remove the residue from old vinyl graphics and it worked well for that, even on boats that had been in the water and exposed to the Texas sun for 10 years. That’s a pretty good test. It’s less toxic than many solvents. The 3M product would probably have been better. Wish I had known about it.

I’ve used the 3M Cleaner on Polypropylene with no issues, but PP resists many solvents.

My biggest concern is paint: automotive paint is different from what is used on most tool boxes (and everything else we have in our shops).

Now I have a new project: testing compatibility of a variety of surfaces in my shop (need to get to hidden surfaces). I’ll pist a new thread with photos.