Taking the CNC Plunge

[TomS]

Also, change Mach3 to 100k on the port setup page.

Jay

So Mach 3 and the UC100 should both be 100k kernel speed. Correct?

 

[TomS]

I suspect that the kernel setting has nothing to do with the E-stop unless the UC100 is sending some kind of an error to Mach. I would look at the E-stop setting in Mach

I assume you are trying to turn on a known good, 60 Watt or so, 120V lamp with the SSRs. If they won't turn that on then I would say there is a major problem with the SSRs. The power supplies draw more than enough start up current to turn on the SSRs

Yes, it is a 100 watt bulb. Seems strange that all four are bad.

See my post to jbolt about the Z axis terminal block. Problem cured I hope.

Next is the limit/homing settings. I wired the switches in series and wired the two leads into the BoB. That caused the E-stop to activate and I couldn't reset it. I don't think this is a problem yet because there are no settings yet in Mach 3 for limits. I'll read up on this subject tonight and attack it in the morning.

Thank to you and jbolt for your help.

Tom S

 

[jbolt]

The SSR's did not work with the lamp.

I'm powering up all three axis at the same time. But I do have good news. The two screws on the ends of the Z axis power supply/driver terminal block were loose. I turned them down about 4 turns to get them tight. After doing this the Z axis moves up and down and the UC100 error code doesn't come up. Evidently the terminal block wasn't making a good connection and tightening the screws cured it. We'll see.

That great news! I'm glad you found it.

That's crazy that all the SSR's don't work? What low volt DC source were you using to test, the 5v or 12v?

Jay

 

[JimDawson]

That's crazy that all the SSR's don't work? What low volt DC source were you using to test, the 5v or 12v?

I agree, that is crazy. Just for a test, try to turn on the SSRs with a 9 or 12 volt battery. If they work, then I suspect that the DC coming from your wall wart is not filtered and needs a capacitor across the 5Volt terminals to take out the ripple.

 

[TomS]

That great news! I'm glad you found it.

That's crazy that all the SSR's don't work? What low volt DC source were you using to test, the 5v or 12v?

Jay

I was using the 12vdc transformer. I could try the 5v transformer but I'm thinking I'll get the same results.

 

[TomS]

I agree, that is crazy. Just for a test, try to turn on the SSRs with a 9 or 12 volt battery. If they work, then I suspect that the DC coming from your wall wart is not filtered and needs a capacitor across the 5Volt terminals to take out the ripple.

I ran the lamp test using a 9 volt battery and the SSR turned on the light. The SSR's are good. So it looks like I need to get a 10mF capacitor for a filter.

Tom S

 

[TomS]

Got the limit switch pin setting figured out. Pin 12 is the Input #3 on the BoB. I actuated each limit switch and got a limit switch activated message in the Status dialogue box. Pressed the Reset button and the message cleared. So this appears to be working.

Next issue is the E-stop. I set the pin number to each of the available input pins. #12 pin seemed to be the logical choice as it is tied to the limit switches. However, when I push the reset button I get the dreaded UC100 communication error. I've read through the Mach 3 installation manual, the UC100 manual and the literature for my BoB and can't figure out what the correct settings should be. Do I check E-stop Active Low, do I need to select Auto Limit Overide, do I need to select Overide Limits, do I need to select Active Low on the limit switches? Maybe I'm completely off base here but I'm real close to making this thing run and getting anxious.

Thanks,


Tom S

 

[JimDawson]

I ran the lamp test using a 9 volt battery and the SSR turned on the light. The SSR's are good. So it looks like I need to get a 10mF capacitor for a filter.

Tom S

You might also confirm that the output of the wall warts is DC, I have seen some that are AC output. I normally have to use a magnifying glass to see the data plate on the wall wart, but your eyes might be better than mine.

 

[TomS]

You might also confirm that the output of the wall warts is DC, I have seen some that are AC output. I normally have to use a magnifying glass to see the data plate on the wall wart, but your eyes might be better than mine.

Man, am I learning a lot about electricity and electronics! I just checked and found out the 12 volt transformer is AC output. That explains why it didn't turn on the SSR LED light. The transformer that is installed is 5VDC output and does power up the USB hub which feeds the SSR and the BoB. Still need the filter because the 9V battery powered up the SSR but the 5VDC transformer won't.

Tom S

 

[bvd1940]

Man, am I learning a lot about electricity and electronics! I just checked and found out the 12 volt transformer is AC output. That explains why it didn't turn on the SSR LED light. The transformer that is installed is 5VDC output and does power up the USB hub which feeds the SSR and the BoB. Still need the filter because the 9V battery powered up the SSR but the 5VDC transformer won't.

Tom S

Don't feel bad, you never let any magic smoke out did you? when the smoke escapes that's when you feel bad
I hope to get back to my project this week, yours looks to be moving right along nicely Tom.
Bill